B1400DT (B6200D equivalent) - Battery Life

[DartmoorPete]

I'm finding that my battery loses it's "grunt" (barely cranks over) after a few years and needs replacing.
Testing the current battery (which only JUST cranks the engine) across the terminals I'm getting about 12.6v (engine off) and about 14.5v (engine running) so I assume that the dynamo/regulator is working properly.

My thoughts:-
* Maybe I should be trickle charging the battery a bit more regularly over winter layup?
* Maybe I should disconnect battery over winter layup?
* Maybe I can only expect the battery to last for a few years anyway?

Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[Dave_eng]

I'm finding that my battery loses it's "grunt" (barely cranks over) after a few years and needs replacing.
Testing the current battery (which only JUST cranks the engine) across the terminals I'm getting about 12.6v (engine off) and about 14.5v (engine running) so I assume that the dynamo/regulator is working properly.

My thoughts:-
* Maybe I should be trickle charging the battery a bit more regularly over winter layup?
* Maybe I should disconnect battery over winter layup?
* Maybe I can only expect the battery to last for a few years anyway?

Any thoughts? Thanks!

Please provide the spec's of the current battery.

What is the battery voltage when the engine is cranking?

Post a photo of the top of your battery and battery cables.

Dave

 

[85Hokie]

A battery is much like a house plant - great when new, but if you do not check on it from time to time both will die early.

From your 3 thoughts - I totally agree with ONE AND TWO - the 3rd not so much. Batteries should last a good five years or more. I had one that lasted about 12 years in an old Isuzu Rodeo. I have had a battery last for 4 years too. Charging a battery with a high current for a long time is very bad for a battery - these new computerize maintainers are excellent for keeping a battery at the proper voltage WITHOUT cooking the acid out of it.

12.6 is ok while sitting - 14.4 is perfect when charged. I would buy a $50 maintainer and use it when you are not going to use the machine for weeks at a time.

You may find something like this across the pond - Battery charger

 

[DartmoorPete]

Please provide the spec's of the current battery.

What is the battery voltage when the engine is cranking?

Post a photo of the top of your battery and battery cables.

Dave

Hi Dave,

The battery is a type 048 which is 12v/45ah/360a CCA. Here is an example:

048 Hankook MF54523 Heavy Duty Car Battery 12V 45AH CCA (EN) 360A

All Batteries are Made By Leading Manufacturers Hankook Car Batteries are a suitable and reliable option for the majority of vehicles on the road that don't have start-stop engines. They benefit from Grid Protection Technology which provides a longer cycle life and helps to improve performance...

batteryfactory.co.uk

I can't test the battery and crank it at same time - I'll let you know when I get my buddy to give me a hand!

Photos below.

Many thanks!

 

[Dave_eng]

Using repair ends on battery cables is a sure fired way to get significant voltage drop over time and thus hard starting.

If you know how to do diagnosis measuring voltage drop then use them but for the average owner, replacing them with complete new cables usually solves lots of problems.

Here is a cable end from another owner with starting problems.

Dave

 

[DartmoorPete]

Using repair ends on battery cables is a sure fired way to get significant voltage drop over time and thus hard starting.

If you know how to do diagnosis measuring voltage drop then use them but for the average owner, replacing them with complete new cables usually solves lots of problems.

View attachment 57621

View attachment 57622

Here is a cable end from another owner with starting problems.

View attachment 57623

Dave

Hi Dave,
That's really interesting/helpful - a problem with the cables themselves wouldn't even have occurred to me!
I'll take your advice and get some new cables made up and fitted. Looking online I see the cables come in different gauges but I'm assuming that the lightest weight automotive ones at 110 amps should be adequate - do you agree?
Many thanks!
Pete

 

[Dave_eng]

Hi Dave,
That's really interesting/helpful - a problem with the cables themselves wouldn't even have occurred to me!
I'll take your advice and get some new cables made up and fitted. Looking online I see the cables come in different gauges but I'm assuming that the lightest weight automotive ones at 110 amps should be adequate - do you agree?
Many thanks!
Pete

I am suggesting off the shelf cables with factory ends.

This is not an occasion where you want to go with what is minimally acceptable especially with an older tractor and starter.

Cables are sized for a 3% voltage drop which is fine with new equipment. When things are old and weak, every 0.1 volt drop becomes significant.

Dave

 

[ostendna]

Dave,

One of the common issues that is over looked with unsealed lead acid batteries is the acid solution level in the cells.

Sitting them on a charger in a hot/cold cycle environment evaporates the solution in the battery cells makes a weak battery.

Also crystals can form at the bottom of the battery cells over time that can short the cells they make PWM chargers that modulate the charge with a pulsed current to help break up these deposits and restore the battery health.

You have 3 options that can possibly fix this issue...

Option 1

1. Remove the battery and place on a secure level surface.
2. Pop off vents with a flat blade screw driver and you will see holes in the top of the battery
3. Shine a flashlight down to check each cell solution level
4. If the levels look low add only distilled water and DO NOT OVER FILL
5. Replace vent covers after solution level looks even between vent holes
6. Place battery on a few pieces of cardboard OUT of the tractor when re-charging (in case of over flow)
7. Check battery with a load tester and inspect for acid over flow
8. If battery dribbles a little use some baking soda/water solution to wipe down outside of battery
9. Place Battery back into the tractor

Option 2

If the solution level is good. Buy a pulse with charger to bust up sulfur crystals that settle in the bottom of the battery solution that could be shorting the cells...

Option 3

Buy a AGM sealed lead acid battery of the same type which will not evaporate and prevent these issues...

Hope this helps

Nick