This question is directed specifically at the LX ROPS owners. Where did you mount your switch(es) for auxiliary work lights? I’m installing forward and rear facing lights on the ROPS and want to have them switched separately (2 switches). Thought about the dash above the factory light switch, but saw on YT someone pointed out there is a support in the way there. (Haven’t pulled the dash off to see for myself) Thought about the plastic on the fender surrounding the 2/4wd selector, but couldn’t find a spot there I was really happy with. I like things to look clean and tidy, like they might have come from the factory. What have others done? Thanks!
Auxiliary work lights on LX
- Thread starter CFarm45
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dirtydeed
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Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
B2650 here, but, should be the same. Mounted switch just above the factory light switch. The switch is illuminated when the ROPS lights are on.
used these. Mounts are magnets and they work great.
used these. Mounts are magnets and they work great.
That was my initial thought, then saw a YT video where the guy said there was a support in the way behind the dash there. Guess I’ll have to pull the dash off and look for myself.
dirtydeed
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Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
i7win7
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Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
You will find all kinds of things a high amp 12v rear power can run.
www.tractorbynet.com
www.orangetractortalks.com
Adding electrical devices to tractor
Purpose of post: to provide general ideas to fellow tractor owners wishing to add lights, electric sprayers, even some high current accessories for short term intermittent use (think winches, jump starts). I'll start with the high power preparations. #1 good heavy duty wire, at Walmart you...
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1 Cool ROPS accessory
Flex-a-Lite model 116 radiator fan 2,215 CFM and 11 amp draw. Stirs up quite a breeze. May help with bugs a night when running lights. Ground speed in reverse slightly faster? :unsure:
www.orangetractortalks.com
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
My BX2360 ROPS is less than 6’ tall. Put them on top. 2 forward/2 back.
Cobbled them up years ago off the 10A work light circuit. Some 6” brackets and other parts I had kicking around.
On/off in 5 minutes. They’re off during mowing season. Just put them back on.
I’ve been tempted to put two light bars in the place of the 4 squares, but really don’t need to…..
Cobbled them up years ago off the 10A work light circuit. Some 6” brackets and other parts I had kicking around.
On/off in 5 minutes. They’re off during mowing season. Just put them back on.
I’ve been tempted to put two light bars in the place of the 4 squares, but really don’t need to…..
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i7win7
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2370, B2650 grapple, tree puller, trailer mover, 3 point hoist, mower, tiller
This might interest someone looking to add electrical devices
For my LX2610 ROPS I used the lights and the switch below in the screenshots. I welded a short piece of 1" angle iron to a small flat plate that I bolted to the existing holes in the ROPS that the factory light kit uses.
The switch I mounted just below the parked PTO button after removing the knock out (note mine was glued to the dash so it took a bit to cut it loose). NOTE the switch is not waterproof but if it ever fails it's not hard to get to it to replace. Also in my case I park the tractor indoors. Snow would be the biggest concern but I think it's unlikely to be enough to take out the switch. Note next to the Right side ROPS bar at the fender is a +12volt 10 amp fused circuit that is switched by the ignition. The ground wire is there as well. It is where the factory lights get there power.
The switch I mounted just below the parked PTO button after removing the knock out (note mine was glued to the dash so it took a bit to cut it loose). NOTE the switch is not waterproof but if it ever fails it's not hard to get to it to replace. Also in my case I park the tractor indoors. Snow would be the biggest concern but I think it's unlikely to be enough to take out the switch. Note next to the Right side ROPS bar at the fender is a +12volt 10 amp fused circuit that is switched by the ignition. The ground wire is there as well. It is where the factory lights get there power.
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Dash mounted the switch just like @dirtydeed - there was plenty of room in there and R&R of the dash panel was pretty easy.
I didn't want the lights above the ROPS because I'm always running into tree limbs. I mounted the 4 lights to a bar then attached it to the ROPS with 2 rivnuts and some solid spacers, to minimize the number of holes drilled in the ROPS.
Front and rear are on one circuit; the only time I operate in the dark is clearing snow, and having them all on makes sense for me.
I didn't want the lights above the ROPS because I'm always running into tree limbs. I mounted the 4 lights to a bar then attached it to the ROPS with 2 rivnuts and some solid spacers, to minimize the number of holes drilled in the ROPS.
Front and rear are on one circuit; the only time I operate in the dark is clearing snow, and having them all on makes sense for me.
jkrubi12
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Equipment
B2601/LA435/QA54"/BH70/B8160box/BB1254/PFL1242/SGC0554/WC-68 Chipper
FWIW, this is my setup on a B2601. The switches are from the same wiring package as posted by dirty deed (mine was a double switch kit), great switch/wiring package!
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Unused factory blank, according to the manual (I couldn't remember). On the cab model, it's the "beacon switch (if equipped)". But it's the wrong shape for my round switch, so I drilled.
Thank you. I had pretty much decided on very similar to this OR the dash mounted switch. Question for you… were you able to get the plastic entirely off the fender or just lift it enough to get the switches mounted? (To remove completely, I think I’d need to remove the selector lever knobs, if that’s even possible).FWIW, this is my setup on a B2601. The switches are from the same wiring package as posted by dirty deed (mine was a double switch kit), great switch/wiring package!
View attachment 89125 View attachment 89126 View attachment 89127
jkrubi12
Well-known member
Equipment
B2601/LA435/QA54"/BH70/B8160box/BB1254/PFL1242/SGC0554/WC-68 Chipper
Got the plastic entirely off the fender, the selector knob 'ends' slip right off the ends of the levers.
Where did you source the magnets from? I have been looking for magnets like that, but haven't found any yet. thanks
dirtydeed
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Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
For the OP, a lot of folks have posted some very impressive photos of work lights.
Mine are pretty rudimentary, but they do their job. I’m sure you’ll be happy with an upgrade.
I did LED headlights years ago. They are better than stock and use less amps, but useless when the snowblower is on. Lights the back of the blower and little else.
This is LED on front and back. They’re not aimed yet, but gives you an idea…Well-worth the effort however you choose to go about it.
Mine are pretty rudimentary, but they do their job. I’m sure you’ll be happy with an upgrade.
I did LED headlights years ago. They are better than stock and use less amps, but useless when the snowblower is on. Lights the back of the blower and little else.
This is LED on front and back. They’re not aimed yet, but gives you an idea…Well-worth the effort however you choose to go about it.
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