8 Best Storage Practices for Tractor & Excavator Hydraulic Systems During Winter

Summit Hydraulics

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As the frost begins to form and the days grow shorter, it’s clear that winter is approaching. For those in the agricultural and construction sectors, this means it’s time to prepare machinery for the colder months. Tractors and excavators, with their complex hydraulic systems, require special attention to avoid costly repairs come spring. Here are best practices for storing your hydraulic machinery during winter.

1. Cleaning Your Machinery:

Before storage, it’s essential to thoroughly clean your tractors and excavators. Remove dirt, debris, and any remnants of the work environment. This not only prevents corrosion but also allows you to inspect the machinery for any damage that may need to be addressed before storage.

2. Choose an Appropriate Storage Location:

The ideal storage location is indoors, away from the elements. If this is not possible, choose a flat area where water cannot pool and cover your machinery with a breathable tarp to protect it from moisture and precipitation.

3. Fluid Management:

  • Check and Change Fluids: Ensure that all fluids are at the recommended level and consider changing them before storage. Fresh oil has fewer contaminants, which can reduce the risk of corrosion.
  • Ensure that your coolant system has adequate antifreeze to prevent freezing and cracking in the engine block.
  • Add a fuel stabilizer to the tank and run the engine for a few minutes to distribute it through the system. This will prevent the fuel from deteriorating and protect the engine.
4. Battery Care:

  • Store the battery in a location that is shielded from extreme temperatures. A climate-controlled environment is ideal to prevent the battery fluid from freezing or excessive discharge.
  • Use a smart trickle charger or a battery maintainer that can keep the battery at optimal charge without overcharging. This is particularly important for lead-acid batteries. If a trickle charger is not available, fully charge the battery before storage and then disconnect the negative terminal to prevent discharge through the vehicle’s electrical system.
  • Before storage, clean the battery terminals with a solution of baking soda and water to neutralize any acid and prevent corrosion. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly.
  • Check for cracks or damage to the battery casing. Damaged batteries should be replaced to avoid leakage of battery acid.
5. Protecting the Hydraulic System:

  • Use a high-quality hydraulic fluid that is suitable for cold temperatures to prevent thickening.
  • It is imperative to depressurize the hydraulic system before storage. This involves running the engine at idle and operating all hydraulic functions to release pressure. This process helps to prevent leaks and stress on hydraulic components, which can be worsened by cold temperatures.
  • Retract all hydraulic cylinders to prevent rod corrosion. If the cylinders must be left extended, consider applying a coat of clean hydraulic oil to the rods to protect them from rust.
  • Inspect all seals and hoses for damage. Replace any that are worn to prevent moisture from entering the system during the temperature fluctuations of winter.
6. Tire and Track Care:

  • For tractors, ensure all tires are inflated to the manufacturer’s recommended pressure to prevent flat spots from forming during long-term storage. If feasible, lifting the machinery off the ground using proper supports can alleviate pressure on the tires and suspension system.
  • For excavators, tracks should be inspected for any signs of wear and adjusted according to the manufacturer’s specifications. During winter storage, however, it’s wise to slightly relieve the tension to prevent unnecessary strain on the tracks and undercarriage components, as they can contract in cold temperatures.
  • Inspect tires for any punctures, tears, or signs of wear that could worsen over the winter. Check the tracks for any damaged or worn links and rollers.
  • Remove any mud, stones, or debris from the tread of tires and tracks to prevent rust and corrosion.
7. Rodent Prevention:

  • Use wire mesh or metal wool to block any small openings through which rodents might enter. Pay particular attention to exhaust pipes and air intakes.
  • Ensure the storage area is free from any food sources that could attract rodents. This includes grains, seeds, or even residue from such materials.
  • There are various repellents available, ranging from natural deterrents like peppermint oil to commercial rodent repellents. Strategically place these around and perhaps even on the machinery.
  • Periodically inspect the storage area and machinery for signs of rodent activity. Quick detection can prevent extensive damage.
8. Final Walk-Around:

Do a final inspection of the machinery before leaving it for the winter. Look for any exposed areas that might need attention and address them accordingly. By adhering to these best practices for winter storage, you not only protect your investment but also ensure that your tractors and excavators are ready to perform once the thaw comes. The importance of depressurizing your hydraulic system cannot be overstated; it is a crucial step that can save time and money in potential repairs. Take the time now to prepare your machinery, and you’ll be setting yourself up for a smooth transition into the next working season. To be ready for the spring, check out our website for all your hydraulic needs!

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NCL4701

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I was under the impression you couldn't sell stuff in a post ???
Could be something about vendor members.


I didn’t read the rules for vendor members closely because I’m not one so could be wrong.
 

number two

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Nice post by Summit!
All they did is add a link to their website/products.
Lot's of members post product sites almost daily.
What is there to bitch about?
 
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BAP

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Nice write up Summit with some very good information.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I wasn't complaining, more curious ,as generally there aren't a lot of posts from members selling stuff(products or their company) in this forum. It was the embedded orange 'link' to the company website that got me wondering.
Ironically read it as the snowplow truck drove by yesterday when it was 10*C or 50*F.
 

Soopitup

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5. Protecting the Hydraulic System:

  • Use a high-quality hydraulic fluid that is suitable for cold temperatures to prevent thickening.
  • It is imperative to depressurize the hydraulic system before storage. This involves running the engine at idle and operating all hydraulic functions to release pressure. This process helps to prevent leaks and stress on hydraulic components, which can be worsened by cold temperatures.
  • Retract all hydraulic cylinders to prevent rod corrosion. If the cylinders must be left extended, consider applying a coat of clean hydraulic oil to the rods to protect them from rust.
  • Inspect all seals and hoses for damage. Replace any that are worn to prevent moisture from entering the system during the temperature fluctuations of winter.
I don't know about anyone else, but my tractor still has pressure at idle.
I have to turn the engine off and THEN relieve the pressure (which I do every time I turn the machine off).

And if you retract one cylinder it usually means you're extending another.
*Not sure what I was thinking here, this is wrong*
 
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TheOldHokie

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I don't know about anyone else, but my tractor still has pressure at idle.
I have to turn the engine off and THEN relieve the pressure (which I do every time I turn the machine off).

And if you retract one cylinder it usually means you're extending another.
You need to think that through.

When you shut the tractor off there is no pressure in the main open center circuit. It is by definition open to tank.

There may be residual pressure in a work circuit. You can relieve that pressure by briefly connecting it to the open center circuit.

Engine running or off retracting cylinders does not extend others.

Dan
 
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Soopitup

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Engine running or off retracting cylinders does not extend others.

Dan
Yeah, not sure what i what I was thinking there.
Definitely wrong.


You need to think that through.

When you shut the tractor off there is no pressure in the main open center circuit. It is by definition open to tank.

There may be residual pressure in a work circuit. You can relieve that pressure by briefly connecting it to the open center circuit.
I did think this one through. :)
Some work circuits that were used when the tractor was running can't be relieved with the engine (and pump) still running. Unless of course you actuate the opposite circuit. But then you have pressure in that circuit. I'm aware some circuits may only have pressure when they're actively being used, but others hold pressure. Like loader, curl function, backhoe, ect.
Only way to drain one side or the other is to turn the pump off then actuate.
 

TheOldHokie

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I did think this one through. :)
Some work circuits that were used when the tractor was running can't be relieved with the engine (and pump) still running. Unless of course you actuate the opposite circuit. But then you have pressure in that circuit. I'm aware some circuits may only have pressure when they're actively being used, but others hold pressure. Like loader, curl function, backhoe, ect.
Only way to drain one side or the other is to turn the pump off then actuate.
On the surface that seems very logical but you might be surprised by what a gauge tells you.

Unless the work circuit is actively holding a load residual pressure in those circuits will bleed off very quickly due to spool pressure leakage.

Dan
 

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On the surface that seems very logical but you might be surprised by what a gauge tells you.

Unless the work circuit is actively holding a load residual pressure in those circuits will bleed off very quickly due to spool pressure leakage.

Dan
I don't need a gauge to tell me there's enough pressure to hold the implement up for weeks to months if it's not bled. Exactly how much I'm not worried about.
I also know if I want to bleed the pressure I can't do it with the tractor running; I have to wait 'til after I turn it off.
Which was my point.
 

TheOldHokie

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I don't need a gauge to tell me there's enough pressure to hold the implement up for weeks to months if it's not bled. Exactly how much I'm not worried about.
I also know if I want to bleed the pressure I can't do it with the tractor running; I have to wait 'til after I turn it off.
Which was my point.
I guess you missed the part about supporting a load.

Lower that implement to the ground and that gauge will read zero in very short order. You have a gauge - try it and see.

Dan
 

TheOldHokie

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I guess you missed the part about supporting a load.

Lower that implement to the ground and that gauge will read zero in very short order. You have a gauge - try it and see.

Dan
Here is a quick video I made to illustrate pressure loss in a spool valve. The gauge is hooked directly to a work port on a remote valve - no cylinder just a hose and deadheaded gauge. No place for the pressure to go except backwards through the valve.

When I operate the lever pressure in the hose spikes to tractor relief pressure. As soon as I allow the lever to return to neutral the gauuge drops quite quickly as residual pressure leaks past the valve spool to tank. As the pressure in the hose drops the rate of leakage decreases but it does not stop. I cut it off at 3 minutes and 150 PSI. This test was with dead cold hydraulic oil which acts as a decent low pressure seal on the spool. If I ran it again with hot oil the rate of leakage would be faster. Even with cold oil, by the time I finish posting this it will be all the way to zero. A typical spool valve will not hold pressure for more than a few minutes. That's why they sell pilot operated check valves for cylinders.


Dan
 

Soopitup

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I guess you missed the part about supporting a load.

Lower that implement to the ground and that gauge will read zero in very short order. You have a gauge - try it and see.

Dan
That's all well and good; I don't have the space in the garage to extend everything to dump the pressure.
Turning the tractor off and jiggling the valves takes less than 30 seconds and solves the problem.
 

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That's all well and good; I don't have the space in the garage to extend everything to dump the pressure.
Turning the tractor off and jiggling the valves takes less than 30 seconds and solves the problem.
I did look back, and the problem I have is I can't figure out what your problem is...
 

Soopitup

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I did look back, and the problem I have is I can't figure out what your problem is...
My problem in that particular case is leaving the pressure in the lines. Which I already had an easy solution to.

The original "problem" was that

It was posted to drain the pressure in the lines with the machine running.

I pointed out that you can't drain the pressure in the lines with the tractor running. You have to turn the tractor off first.
Which is 100% correct.

Then Dan posted that I wasn't thinking it through (not sure how I wasn't; you still can't drain the pressure with the tractor running) and seemed intent on convincing me draining the pressure that way is pointless because it will quickly drain if you unload all the cylinders, seeming to forget that not everyone has the space to unload all the cylinders.

All leading back to

You can't drain the pressure in the lines with the tractor running.
You have to wait until it's turned off.