7’ Back Blade on a L4760
- Thread starter fishpick
- Start date
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
No opinion on the size, but check out the .....Everything Attachments 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade.
A better than excellent product!
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Will it cover your wheel track when angled? Whatever you get, get one that offsets and the heavier the better.
I don't know the answer you're looking for, but your question reminds me. Back in about 1977 I saw a farm house with a 3pt blade in the yard for sale. Looked nice, not used much. I stopped and ended up buying it for $125. Only "tractor" I had was a B6100. That 7' blade fit on it nicely but was a bit too long so I had 12" cut off of each end by a neighbor. (As time went on the neighbor got a divorce, sold the place And moved on.) After about 10 years I had a B8200 and wish I had the 7'blade instead of the 5 footer. I went up to the neighboring property and the mans scrap iron pile was still there. I found the two end pieces that had been cut off and had them welded back on. Still have that blade!!
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
A 7' blade angled at 35* is only about 66" wide. At 45* only 60" wide.
Probably should keep that in mind.
Probably should keep that in mind.
I use a 7' on my 4760 for snow removal and it works fine with the hydraulic top link. I have not tried it for moving dirt or gravel.
What's got me looking at used blades (this one : https://bushhog.com/landscape/50-series-rear-mounted-blades/) is primarily my driveway. Not the main grading / maintenance - I do that with a 6' land plane and love that thing. What happens is, I end up with a little ridge of stones along the edges of the drive when done land planing. Sometimes you can pull it back in with the plane and sometimes you can't. Now having used the plane for several years those little ridges have turned into maybe 2" high curbs along the edge of parts of the drive. I'd like to have a tool to knock the shoulders off when needed and perhaps even pull the ridge of stone back after land planing to prevent them in the first place. The soil in these parts also consumes the driveway in the spring as the stones sink in some and push out towards the sides - and I think that could use a reshaping along the edges as well.
Other than that - I'd absolutely find value in having a blade on the rear during the winter to pull snow out from structures that it's hard to get the front blower into. And to scrape the concrete pad in front of the garage as opposed to living with inches of packed snow and ice until it thaws.
Other than that - I'd absolutely find value in having a blade on the rear during the winter to pull snow out from structures that it's hard to get the front blower into. And to scrape the concrete pad in front of the garage as opposed to living with inches of packed snow and ice until it thaws.
Depends on weight. I use a tufline gb5 7 foot blade and a 7040 pulls it fine. Its about 1200 pounds best i remember. But it will cut hard ground. A lightweight grader blade would be fine. Wish i had bought an 8 footer to maintain 7 foot width while angled