2017 GR2120 leaking hydrostat

MILESKellogs

Member

Equipment
B3200 & GR2120
May 17, 2021
32
13
8
omaha
just wondering if there is any input on this issue. I have a 2017 GR2120 that was bought new and has been serviced by myself using Kubota fluids and filters. It has right at 350 hours on it and has began leaking fluid from somewhere on the top of the hydro. Not a profuse leak but enough to leave spots. The top is pretty soaked and Both sides of the hydro are wet. More so on the left side (as you sit in the seat). I haven't had a chance to really look into it so I thought this would be a good place to ask before I dive in. Any thoughts or experiences are appreciated
thanks
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,214
1,899
113
Mid, South, USA
I suspect either a pipe leaking or it's venting fluid. If it is venting from the overflow, make sure the cold fluid level is at the lower mark on the dip stick, and make sure you are using super udt fluid and nothing else. If your fluid is correct and the level is correct, and you are venting from the overflow, there may be a stoppage in the channel somewhere. Only way to know is to split it and they are a pain in the backside.

before you go too deep clean it off real good, adjust fluid level if needed, then try to isolate the leak source. I like to use some UV dye to isolate pesky leaks but not everyone has that capability.
 
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MILESKellogs

Member

Equipment
B3200 & GR2120
May 17, 2021
32
13
8
omaha
I suspect either a pipe leaking or it's venting fluid. If it is venting from the overflow, make sure the cold fluid level is at the lower mark on the dip stick, and make sure you are using super udt fluid and nothing else. If your fluid is correct and the level is correct, and you are venting from the overflow, there may be a stoppage in the channel somewhere. Only way to know is to split it and they are a pain in the backside.

before you go too deep clean it off real good, adjust fluid level if needed, then try to isolate the leak source. I like to use some UV dye to isolate pesky leaks but not everyone has that capability.
Thank you for responding, the fluid level was correct :( as I do my own maintenance. I do use only the recommended Kubota fluids & filters which I mail order in. The local dealers don't even stock Kubota fluids and say that any hydraulic oil is fine. (wonder why I don't trust them or there monkeys) :)
I'll try cleaning the area thoroughly as suggested and go from there resorting to the dye if needed.
Does the sheetmetal need to be removed and if so how much of a PITA is that ? Thanks again
 

tbk5

Active member

Equipment
L3710, L3010, ZD1211, RTV900xt, GR2100, lots of 3pt equipment
Sep 24, 2013
181
93
28
Central AL
I had a similar issue on a GR2100 and it turned out to be the hydraulic drain hose. (Part 10 in this photo) that goes from the back of the hydraulic oil filter housing to the top of the transmission. It is had to see but you can get a hand up there and feel for a pool of oil on top of the transmission housing. I used an air compressor to blow all the oil/dirt away first.
1621349216425.png

A gander on Messicks shows the same hose ( K1253-36533) on the 2120. In my case, the fluid level always seemed fine until it was not. The hose got hard over time, seeped and finally cracked.

At least on the 2100, the vent hose is under the seat, towards the rear of the tractor. You should be able to visualize it. The hoses have a Tee that run to each axle.
 

MILESKellogs

Member

Equipment
B3200 & GR2120
May 17, 2021
32
13
8
omaha
I had a similar issue on a GR2100 and it turned out to be the hydraulic drain hose. (Part 10 in this photo) that goes from the back of the hydraulic oil filter housing to the top of the transmission. It is had to see but you can get a hand up there and feel for a pool of oil on top of the transmission housing. I used an air compressor to blow all the oil/dirt away first.
View attachment 60045
A gander on Messicks shows the same hose ( K1253-36533) on the 2120. In my case, the fluid level always seemed fine until it was not. The hose got hard over time, seeped and finally cracked.

At least on the 2100, the vent hose is under the seat, towards the rear of the tractor. You should be able to visualize it. The hoses have a Tee that run to each axle.
I had a similar issue on a GR2100 and it turned out to be the hydraulic drain hose. (Part 10 in this photo) that goes from the back of the hydraulic oil filter housing to the top of the transmission. It is had to see but you can get a hand up there and feel for a pool of oil on top of the transmission housing. I used an air compressor to blow all the oil/dirt away first.
View attachment 60045
A gander on Messicks shows the same hose ( K1253-36533) on the 2120. In my case, the fluid level always seemed fine until it was not. The hose got hard over time, seeped and finally cracked.

At least on the 2100, the vent hose is under the seat, towards the rear of the tra
Thanks to both :), Turned out to be a loose worm gear hose clamp. SOB dealer was telling me it was likely a commonly known gasket issue & about 1500 to repair :( All good now. Thanks again
 
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lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,214
1,899
113
Mid, South, USA
just take the rear cover off to start with. 4 bolts in the outside edges. Clean it up. Then go from there.

One thing worth mentioning and I have seen this on original unmolested transmissions with the GR series (2100, 2110, 2120 all generations) is when the case halves are assembled, they use liquid gasket. Integral to the case halves is the case VENT channel, runs from bottom to top, and everywhere between. The vent channel is very close to the liquid gasket area and sometimes they'd get too much liquid gasket on it, which would plug the vent channel and cause the trans to vent fluid.

If you want to play with a POOR design of a transmission, play with a GR series. Absolutely stupid! If you end up having to split it, prepare yourself. You will need a 10mm socket and wrench, an inch pound torque wrench, a piece of 3/32 (IIRC) starter rope about 6 foot long, and tons and tons of patience. When you reassemble, make sure the case halves (which are a poor casting, you will see what I mean) are squeaky clean, lay the rope into the vent channels, apply liquid gasket. Assemble the halves and snug them together, IIRC there are 43 bolts-and 43 nuts on them. May not be that many but it will feel like 50 or so. Before the liquid gasket sets up, pull the rope out. That keeps the channel clean. Then go ahead and torque all of those bolts. If you don't get frustrated with the transmission at that point, you are inhuman and I will bow to your patience.

If you let the gasket set up before pulling the rope out you will not be able to pull it out and you get to take it back apart again, clean all the gasket off and try again. Speaking from experience!!

Another leak point I ran into was the pto clutch housing. The clutch is a multi-plate setup which requires a special tool to get it properly into it's dumb design of a case. If you don't have the tool, you can rely on luck. If you don't get it quite right, you'll crack the clutch case and/or transmission case (guaranteed). I have done it. You don't see any cracking right off, but it will leak fluid, slowly. After running 4-5 hours at full throttle it had a couple of dime-sized puddles under it. Customer wasn't happy about that, being that he spent like 10 grand on the pile of steaming feces. So out it came. Over and over trying to find the leaks. We ended up eating the cost of the transmission, at that time about $3500, replaced it as a unit and solved his problem; albeit temporarily. That was only one. There were several. The funny is that the customer said keep that piece of junk transmission and do whatever with it, which I found the leaks and wasn't able to really repair them without $$$. My boss moved the business to a new building which had a bunch of trees that we had to cut and pile up. Well we touched off the one pile and I decided that the best use of a GR transmission was to put it on the pile and watch it BURN. That was the only satisfaction I ever got out of working on GR series mowers in the 28 1/2 years I worked at a kubota dealer.
 
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tbk5

Active member

Equipment
L3710, L3010, ZD1211, RTV900xt, GR2100, lots of 3pt equipment
Sep 24, 2013
181
93
28
Central AL
... a piece of 3/32 (IIRC) starter rope about 6 foot long, and tons and tons of patience...
Cotten or nylon rope? I am almost ready to rebuild my GR2100 transmission--as a stress relief endeavor. :ROFLMAO:
 

tbk5

Active member

Equipment
L3710, L3010, ZD1211, RTV900xt, GR2100, lots of 3pt equipment
Sep 24, 2013
181
93
28
Central AL
LOL. It was a real question. I think it is an ingenious solution. Nylon seems like it would be easier to pull out (no stretching) but would be harder to keep in that channel. I know, I worry too much.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
5,214
1,899
113
Mid, South, USA
I used weed eater string on one of them and that worked pretty good. Really anything works as long as you pull it out before the liquid gasket sets up. Once it does, that rope ain't coming out. Yes I learned that the hard way.