B2650 Snow Removal

Podflyguy · Dec 5, 2017

Hi All,

New to the forum. Bought a B2650 this August after moving to a new home on 15 acres. 11 acres in corn and Hay, about 4 acres to mow. Got the 60” MMM and the loader with 60” quick attach bucket and ballast box. Mowing and general chores have been great, but now thinking more about snow removal.

I’ve got a 300’ asphalt driveway to clear. It’s mostly straight but on a decent hill. This is my first tractor and part of the decision to purchase was based on snow removal. Previous owner had a BX series machine and did it all with the FEL and bucket. I’ve looked into rear blades, front blades with and without hydraulics, as well as front and rear snowblowers. I’m in south central PA and while we don’t get a lot of snow, we tend to get one or two “big ones” each year. The last 2 or 3 years we saw 20” plus snow fall events.

I’ve gone round and round with all of these options and am curious to see what forum members with a lot more experience than me would do. I appreciate any thoughts or advice!

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rjcorazza · Dec 5, 2017

We don't get a lot of snow here in Maryland, 24 inches per year avg with a big snow every 3 years or so. I plow 10-20 residential drives with hydraulic angled blades front and rear. I can swap out the front ssqa blade with a bucket, or also swap out the rear blade with a 6 foot blower for large snows.
I could get by without the blower, but for the rare blizzard it is an awesome implement.

rkidd · Dec 5, 2017

I do all my snow removal with my B2650 with the loader. I operated equipment for a living so I was used to it, but you having an asphalt drive would make it very doable vrs a stone driveway. I like being able to push, scoop or pile up snow, depending on how much we get here in the snow belt in BE Ohio. There are other options for your tractor, that all cost additional monies. Maybe try the bucket and if not comfortable with it might have to try something else. Good luck.

conropl · Dec 5, 2017

I like to use a snowblower, but that is only to keep the banks low which keeps the drift depth down. However, in your case I think I would be looking at an FEL mounted plow blade with hydraulic tilt. Then if the banks get to high and you need to push them back or move banks, then put the loader bucket on for that. This assumes you have an FEL with an SSQA. If you do not have a lot of snow to move most of the winter and you have a paved drive, then the front blade would be much faster and easier to mount than a snow blower.

The cheapest way to go would be to leave the bucket on for the larger snow events, and use a rear blade for everything else. Rear blades are pretty cheap, and can clear the drive quickly. The larger snow events would take a while to clear, but it could be done with the bucket.

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eng1886trk · Dec 6, 2017

I'm right across the river from you with a B2650 as well. I have a 450' driveway with a good hill as well, so it sounds like we are pretty similar in situations.

I first tried the bucket and back blade method. The back blade worked well for the 1-3 inch stuff and ice; but for me, anything more than that is a pain to use the loader in my opinion. Plus it is very time consuming.

My goal to buy very soon is the Landpride SB1064 and then (later down the road) I want to couple that with either a Landpride 72" SSQA push box or the Kubota SSQA Snow blade with hydraulic angle.

I too looked at the front vs rear snow blower options, but for the limited times we get a decent snow, I'll gladly look over my shoulder for a little. Plus having the bucket still on is nice for stacking and firewood moving.

If you are interested in a front mount blower/blade. Messick's has a used set up in great shape for sale. It's on their website.

Stmar · Dec 6, 2017

I went with the Kubota B2673 manual 72" blade for snow plowing and I have a back blade also. We have not had much snow this year so I am experimenting and the front blade and back blade angled the same direction with the back blade offset and reversed seems to give the best results so far. When the ground freezes I am sure there will be other revisions, like putting the skid feet back on and may have to turn the back blade back to the cutting edge if we get any ice. I went with the Kubota brand blade and it was $1700 list, got a bit of a discount with my package. Another experiment I am going to try are rubber chains recommended by another forum member, have them on order so they should be here soon and will post my experience once I get some time with them. I have a gravel driveway, with your asphalt you may want to research the rubber so that you won't damage it with regular chains.

http://www.rubbertirechains.com/

rjcorazza · Dec 6, 2017

Stmar said:
...Another experiment I am going to try are rubber chains recommended by another forum member, have them on order so they should be here soon and will post my experience once I get some time with them. I have a gravel driveway, with your asphalt you may want to research the rubber so that you won't damage it with regular chains.

http://www.rubbertirechains.com/

I have been considering these also. I plow residential driveways and many customers don’t like chain marks. Let us know how they work out!!!

Tractor NUG · Dec 6, 2017

I have a B2601 and my driveway is gravel and about 1 mile long with a couple of steep hills. The driveway is winding and has few flat spots. I have a B2782B snowblower front mount and a back blade. Not sure what you have around the sides of your driveway but mine goes through forest. I needed the blower because after a period time you can no longer plow the snow as the buildup along the sides of the driveway gets to a point that you can't plow it anymore. So the snowblower allows me to throw it well away from the sides of the driveway. The back blade will be helpful for clearing snow when the blower is not necessary or should not be used. Given the length and geography of the driveway, I think it would take a long time and be more difficult to use the bucket. Hope that helps.
GP

Podflyguy · Dec 6, 2017

I really appreciate all the replies thus far. My first thought was to pick up a rear blade for use with the FEL and SSQA bucket. The more I researched the option, the more it seemed like this would only handle light snows. When I looked into front blades, the cost was so high that I thought the money would be better spent on a blower. Then the whole front vs rear debate bogged me down. Honestly, my biggest concern is losing traction on the hill in reverse. But the price of a front mount blower setup is a small fortune for me at this point. A friend of mine runs snow pushers for commercial snow removal, but uses much larger machines. I’m unsure how much the 2650 could handle. I would imagine a 6 Foot pusher filled with snow would get pretty heavy. At the end of the day I’m going to have to bite the bullet and spend some money, but the sting from buying the tractor itself is still pretty fresh!

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Pat T · Dec 6, 2017

Being in south central PA I think I'd roll the dice and go with a rear mounted blade and use a FEL if you have one. Tire chains may help you also. Up here in NW PA we have the Lake Erie Snow Machine so I went with the BX2816 front mounted blower for my BX2380. Sometimes I have a 4 foot drift right in front of my garage. Best wishes to you!

Grouse Feathers · Dec 6, 2017

A rear blade and your fel is a workable solution for the least cost. Go with it for this winter and make a more experienced/educated decision next year. Since you have a paved driveway you probably do not need a rear blade for grading so a lightweight inexpensive blade will work.

CharlieFoxtrot · Dec 6, 2017

If you go with a rear blade, you will want to replace the cutting edge with something soft to avoid damaging your driveway. I use a Landpride blade to help with clearing snow and bolted a strip of high density rubber matting to the moldboard. It acts like a squeegee on my paved driveway.

You should only drag snow forward though. Pushing snow backward could damage your 3 point hardware.

jmf78 · Dec 6, 2017

Pat T said:
Being in south central PA I think I'd roll the dice and go with a rear mounted blade and use a FEL if you have one. Tire chains may help you also. Up here in NW PA we have the Lake Erie Snow Machine so I went with the BX2816 front mounted blower for my BX2380. Sometimes I have a 4 foot drift right in front of my garage. Best wishes to you!

I'm not far from Pat T and I agree. I push snow with my front angle blade as well as my rear blade and move and pile it as needed with the FEL. I've had to climb over drifts in front of my garage as well which is why i keep my BX in the garage with the rear blade on ready to push that first drift to get out and start moving snow. Best of luck with your decision making.

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jmf78 · Dec 6, 2017

CharlieFoxtrot said:
If you go with a rear blade, you will want to replace the cutting edge with something soft to avoid damaging your driveway. I use a Landpride blade to help with clearing snow and bolted a strip of high density rubber matting to the moldboard. It acts like a squeegee on my paved driveway.

You should only drag snow forward though. Pushing snow backward could damage your 3 point hardware.

Good point here. I cut a stall mat to mount to my front blade for plowing on my driveway.

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Podflyguy · Dec 6, 2017

The dealer suggested bolting a section of polyethylene board onto my bucket. I’m curious as to whether adding the optional skid shoes to the land pride RB2672 would protect the driveway.

I really appreciate all the input. I’m thinking the FEL/Rear blade combo might be the best fit for my budget this year. CharlieFoxTrot, thanks for the tip. I had read elsewhere on the forum about issues with bending the 3pt when pushing implements in reverse. My dealer didn’t think this was an issue, but I think I’ll drag snow forward as you suggest.

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D2Cat · Dec 6, 2017

I've pushed a lot of things backwards with something attached to the 3pt of a tractor. Got many loads with a 3pt dirt scoop going in reverse. Rear blades are designed to rotate 180 deg. so you can push backwards. Why would manufacturers make snow blowers for 3 pt.?

Never have bent anything, never thought I'd bend anything. Maybe I'm fortunate.

mpham · Dec 7, 2017

I get quite a bit of snow at my location. Often several storms over 8-10 inches. We even had 1 storm dump 31 inches overnight. I find my B2650 likes a 7 ft. Plow on the front and a 54 blower on the rear to keep things clean. I don't use chains on my concrtete drive. I go out a few times during the storm if they forcast a lot of snow. Love the turfs for thier great traction in the snow. I could use a bigger blower but had this one before I got the B2650.

NEPA Guy · Dec 7, 2017

I think Grouse had some good advice. Give it a year with your situation and then make a more educated decision.

I have just under a half mile of asphalt on a decently grade hill using turfs. The 2650 performs well enough with the front hydraulic snow blower and the front hydraulic blade. It attaches to an installable frame once I drop the FEL. It makes changing back and forth easy. I bought chains as backup but haven't had to use them yet in 4x4 mode.

Maybe pick up a used setup to save some bucks if you have room to store it when not in use?

GL

Tractor NUG · Dec 7, 2017

I understand exactly what you mean- just got my B2601 2 months ago so very new to tractors too and tight on $$. My thoughts are if you feel more comfortable waiting on the snowblower, then I might suggest you buy the back blade with no hydraulics- you can add them later. It is a lot cheaper than a snowblower- here in Ontario it cost me about 1/5th of the price of the blower. I have a RB1672 and it can pivot/angle left or right as well as you can spin it around backwards so you can push backwards if you want- also it will angle down 15 degrees on either side. So, it is good for snow but also good for work in the summer so I think worth the money.
Also if you do decide to get a blower (eventually or now) i would highly recommend getting the front mounted - not the rear. you have a mid PTO and it is a whole lot easier not having to twist backwards in your seat trying to blow snow backwards.
Also I would not underestimate the 2650- its a workhorse and based on what my smaller b2601 has done so far, that tractor will lift or push more snow than you can give it. I have 2 really steep hills and even with some ice and snow on the steep sides, I just put it in low and 4-wheel drive and that thing just chugs up with little slippage at all ( of course with ballast on the back). I don't use chains and I have R4 tires. I also just pulled 2,000 lbs of boat and trailer up those hills last week with some ice and snow on the ground. I am pretty impressed by these machines. Good luck- let us know how it turns out- Cheers!

chim · Dec 7, 2017

My driveway is about 300' long with a large L-shaped parking area at the top. It comes off the road level and has a short hill near the top. The hill faces North and can be a pain with re-freeze or if the driveway isn't clean to the blacktop.

We built here in '89 and I've used a front blade, FEL, rear blade and rear blower. The blower was bought on a whim and is really fun, but not a necessity in out part of the Commonwealth. I'd use the FEL and a 6' Tractor Supply rear blade. They're cheap enough that you can whack a few inches off each side (or one side if you want an "Amish Offset") if the width of the blade is too much for the 2650. At 400 bucks it isn't going to be a family heirloom. On light snows you can angle the blade and drive forward, casting the snow to the side. On heavier snows you can drop the FEL and plow a primary path to work with or swing the blade and back through.

I also made extensions for the FEL bucket that work well for pushing snow. We do all our own snow removal at the church and pushing is usually the default method.

I've never had any blacktop damage issues with steel buckets or blades, but the edge of the bucket itself will go fast on blacktop. I put replaceable wear edges on the two buckets I've used. The rear blade doesn't wear much at all, so I didn't bother.

I did make up a rubber "squeegee" for a tractor at work, mostly because of the gravel areas and uneven blacktop. I don't care for it all that much but the guys like it. I used an old tire tread clamped between the moldboard and wear edge of the blade, leaving a few inches of tire exposed below the steel of the blade.

B2650 Snow Removal

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