Major Kubota b3200 hst Problems Kubota Won't Fix!!!

stitchit

New member

Equipment
b3200 Kubota Tiller, Blower, Loader, BlaDE, ETC.
Jul 5, 2010
22
0
0
Cheboygan Michigan
I will make this as short as possible--

I have had four hydro lines replaced on this unit to date, and have had no luck in talking to Kubota in Columbus OH.

I was told by the rep from Ohio that he was going to have my dealer cut the line on the straight away, piece it together with a rubber hose, hose clamp it, & braze the crack. He feels this is being caused by the "harmonics & vibration" of the tractor, and that this should cure it.

The mechanic stated that the damage to the inside of the hydro unit would be simply minimal:mad:

Too many problems to list thru-ought the time I've had it. But, I will say--"IF" the tractor were prepped correctly, many would probably been avoided.

Does anybody here know how to get the chain of command name list for California's main office @ Kubota? Also, the same for Ohio?

The videos are online, and yes, I do wish I would have used photobucket, but it was so late in the night I forgot all about them.

Please view in reverse order. That is, from bottom up, as it will make more sense. Click on the "continue to video" and it will take you directly to the video I posted.
To go to video(s), please click here

Sincerely,

Chris
 
Last edited:

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,094
2,755
113
SW Pa
Sounds to me like maybe you might want to contact a lawyer about the lemon law thing,, I think by this time I would have parked it in the front door of the dealer ship with him the mech and service manager under the machine,, But thats just me
 

KubotaTech

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None- I get to play with everyone elses stuff
Apr 1, 2010
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PA
Don't get too fired up about blaming people who worked on it. I have seen this same problem before. You can prep it all you want, but if there is a problem with a design or a manufacturing process the guys with the wrenches cant do a thing about it. The hose they were told to put in place does temporarily fix thee problem of the line cracking. However it is probably made differently depending which dealer you go to. The dealer is instructed to install a hose until a future fix is made, and from prior experience, it will not be too far in the future that there will be a resolution.
 

KubotaTech

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None- I get to play with everyone elses stuff
Apr 1, 2010
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By the way, it isnt a hydro or hst line, it is the high pressure supply line to your hitch. It is a harmonics problem, they have a thicker revised line available, was that installed? Maybe get them to put a different hose on that is longer and is routed a different way. A longer hose will dampen the vibration more. If you have a hose tightly bent it will transfer the vibration almost like a steel line. Any damage should be minimal because as soon as it starts to leak you shouldnt operate the tractor. This line is located downstream from the hydro, so the hydro should be supplied with plenty of oil, that is assuming they use the same hydraulic pump. If they use 2 different pumps, then it shouldnt even be an issue.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,094
2,755
113
SW Pa
KT,, I have owned HD's for a lot of years and this sounds like a lot of the HD dealers,, get it in get it out and tell the customer anything. ANd if it is as you say then perhaps a steel braided flex line would serve better, we use them in the mines amd they take a hell of a beating. The other problems he has are again, just tell him anything and get it out so we can get the next one in,, to many times the buck is the bottom line for a dealer no matter what the product, and this service manager sounds like he was trained by the MoCo! And when you find a good dealer that will go the extra mile for a customer,, man they are like gold and you take care of them as they do you!
Just MHO you understand
 

gasanders

New member
Apr 13, 2010
19
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oakton, va
The "divit" taken out of your R/H drag link appears to be from striking your mid-mower lift levers. Some of this "marking" is normal because 2 steel parts are coming together and "lifting". A little grease in this location will help a lot. Also, the R/H drag links elevation can be adjusted by the threaded rod attached between the lift lever and drag link....possibly it is to high and the R/H drag link is doing all/most of the mower lifting...this will also make the mower come closer to the R/H rear tire. Something to look at???
 

stitchit

New member

Equipment
b3200 Kubota Tiller, Blower, Loader, BlaDE, ETC.
Jul 5, 2010
22
0
0
Cheboygan Michigan
KT-Understand what you are saying, however,..........

This place is full of completely ignorant people. They have ground on almost every tractor that doesn't simply "fall" into place when putting together from the crate when new.

With that said, can you tell me if the dealer would/should be aware of the thicker revised line?

I asked them, and they simply said that there were only one type available. So, I take it that they don't know about the revised one.
 

KubotaTech

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Apr 1, 2010
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The thicker line part number is given in a service bulletin. It is possible they may have already tried the part, be cause often times a service bulletin part number will immediately be updated to the parts lookup software. I had contacted technical service by phone when I dealt with this problem. The guy there wanted me to ship the line to them so they could check it out to see again why it was broken. So, to me that says they are trying, but if I spent a bunch of money on a new tractor, I would be pissed too. What I did notice however, is that there is a serial number break on these tractors. They apparently changed the loader valves. I dont know if it has anything to do with it, but there was another tractor that was on the newer section of the break. I tried to get to make the noise. I drove it 20 minutes and couldnt get it to do it, however the customer's tractor only took about 5 minutes to get the oil hot and it was extremely loud, and this one was an older serial number. There are 2 new lines, one for older numbers and one for newer numbers, according to the bulletin.
 

KubotaTech

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None- I get to play with everyone elses stuff
Apr 1, 2010
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OK so maybe I commented too soon, I had only watched the first video. Now that I saw them all, I can see your frustration. The mid mount mowers for these tractors are options and not equipped from the factory. So with that in mind, you can thank your dealer for the lift bracket issues.
 

stitchit

New member

Equipment
b3200 Kubota Tiller, Blower, Loader, BlaDE, ETC.
Jul 5, 2010
22
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0
Cheboygan Michigan
KubotaTech-- Thanks so much for your post/replies!!

I'm somewhat confused on the numbers tho? Break numbers--You mean like a mold that makes these parts I am assuming?

Thanks again,

Chris
 

KubotaTech

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Apr 1, 2010
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They made a few thousand tractors, then changed the design. They changed that hydraulic pipe and also the loader valve, among whatever else.
 

stitchit

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Equipment
b3200 Kubota Tiller, Blower, Loader, BlaDE, ETC.
Jul 5, 2010
22
0
0
Cheboygan Michigan
Update--- Talked to California today, and he said the tractor is not covered under the lemon law. Anyone here know of this being true? I have to look-into it more, but thought I would ask ya's.

Also, parts are on the way from Japan. "HOPEFULLY" will be here soon. Don't have any idea what time frame this will be.

Chris
 

cody

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Equipment
Zb5000 kubota
May 17, 2010
15
0
0
45
Prince George BC Canada
How did you talk the dealer into throwing in a steam whistle?? LOL The noise is the high pressure oil being forced out of the cracked weld. The story about the about the vibration harmonics is a load of BS. I am a vibration analyst and the story they are telling you doesn’t make sense unless the teller of the tail is screwing up the terms. The cracked weld can be caused by vibrations but not harmonic vibrations. Most likely the pipe is vibrating and the design (size, length, shape of piping, etc.) is the cause and the tractor motor or pump is agitating natural/resonance frequencys of the piping and breaking the welds on the pipe. Or the lines are too long and heavy for the joint where it’s cracked and by pure force causing it to fail (unlikely). This is any easy fix but not one you should have to be bothered with. If this is a design flaw there will be a lot more with this problem and they know about it. Do not let them patch this problem it will only plague you endlessly unless they replace the lines with an improved design or like KT suggest dampen the vibrations by using a number of different techniques one can use, but most include adding a fail point to your system. A better designed line is the best fix and only option on a new machine in my opinion.
 

stitchit

New member

Equipment
b3200 Kubota Tiller, Blower, Loader, BlaDE, ETC.
Jul 5, 2010
22
0
0
Cheboygan Michigan
Thanks to all of you!!!

To All & Cody--I did get the feeling it was a design flaw. However, the current dealer it's at says he's "never" had a problem with this line on any of his other units he's sold/serviced.

Can you tell me how long the b3200 has been out?
 

botaman3200

New member
Jul 18, 2010
5
0
0
pa
Having the same problem with the steel line. Two lines within 50 hours.
Im being told that no updated lines are in the USA and will have to wait 2 to 3 weeks to get my tractor back but got a b3030 for a loaner.
Should they replace the loader valve also?
 

Butch

Active member

Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
Sep 10, 2009
630
81
28
74
Rising Sun, MD
Folks... I have a B2410 and after about 800 hours I had a brazed joint on my high pressure hydro line let go. I ordered a new line and replaced it. The replacement line was EXACTLY like the the OEM line in EVERY way.

When I reinstalled the line I discovered why the original line went out. The line, which goes the full length of the tractor, was secured adjacent to the brake assembly by attaching it to another line that was affixed to the tractor frame. This was done with a worm drive clamp that wrapped around both line and tightened. In other words one line held the other in place.

The problem is the gap between the two lines before the clamp was tightened down and the two lines touched.... it was almost 3/4". On the original line the clamp was tight and both line touched before I removed it. When I loosened it for removal there was still some spring still in the original leaking line. The strain was obvious and given the location of the brazed failure on the original line that vibration and stress caused the failure.

Needless to say I anchored the line in a more practical manner... no stress on the FEL valve block... and life as I knew it is all well again.

I kept the old line... brazed it myself and most likely I will never need it again as I am 99+% sure I remedied the culprit that caused me the problem during Maryland's 85" snowfall last winter.

I will add one thing... the line was a real BITCH to replace... 2 days.

I feel your pain:eek:.... Butch.
 

eserv

Well-known member

Equipment
BX24, A1000 Kubota Generator
May 27, 2009
2,110
112
63
Hardisty, Alberta
Kubota allow us 1.5 hrs without loader valve and 1.7 with loader valve. Anyone want to come work flat rate for Kubota? lol
Ed
 

KubotaTech

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None- I get to play with everyone elses stuff
Apr 1, 2010
185
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PA
We tried brazing a broken line and it didnt work. The guy who did it is the best around and it didnt hold. And Cody, the noise is not the oil coming out of the cracked weld, you can get the tractors to make the noise without having a broken line.
 

Butch

Active member

Equipment
Kubota 2410, RC60-24B, FL1000- kubota hydrolic front snow blade- plug aerator
Sep 10, 2009
630
81
28
74
Rising Sun, MD
Guys... I should have indicated I used high pressure silve solder brazing rod. I got the tip from an old hydraulics repairman that has been doing this for over 30 years.

I had to smear some sort of heat sink paste on the FEL junction block and use a really hot brazing tip to do the weld. After rhree passes around the pipe/block junction ther weld looked like it was arc'd in place. Josh told me regular brazing would not hold if there was ANY stress on the joint... that is why we went with silver solder.

Just food for thought.... Butch

PS.... we did an analysis of the bonding l metal in the original weld..... it was brass brazed. Kooked like it was done by a CAD welder.:rolleyes: