Could anybody help me with how to replace a PTO clutch on an L Series 2550. It will not engage anymore and I was told by a friend that it was PTO clutch as he thought it will not engage anymore and I was told by have friend that it was PTO clutches he thought. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PTO clutch
- Thread starter Dewayne
- Start date
rbargeron
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L5450, L48, L3250, L345 never enough attachments
Replacing the clutch means splitting the tractor. But be real sure it's the clutch before doing that. PTO clutch failures are very rare. Does the tractor still move ok? Any noises? Did it suddenly stop engaging or was it a gradual failure? On tractors with dual clutch the common failure is the pto won't disengage. Single clutch failure usually means it won't move either. The problem could be linkage or in the pto shifter parts.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I agree with rbargeron, very uncommon for the PTO clutch to just go out.
I would exhaust all other sources of non operation first.
Most common is PTO engagement lever is not moving all the way to engage.
second most common is internal damage to the PTO drive.
The PTO clutch is either the same clutch as the tractors drive (single disk clutch) or a second disk off of the first disk (dual disk clutch).
Most commonly the second stage becomes stuck from lack of use and sees very little use normally.
If you get the WSM for that model it will break down all the required steps for testing and if needed the replacement of the clutch, or any other steps and procedures needed to repair it.
If it is a dual disk clutch, you must follow the repair procedure and adjustment to the tee, as they can be fairly tricky to setup and get right.
I would exhaust all other sources of non operation first.
Most common is PTO engagement lever is not moving all the way to engage.
second most common is internal damage to the PTO drive.
The PTO clutch is either the same clutch as the tractors drive (single disk clutch) or a second disk off of the first disk (dual disk clutch).
Most commonly the second stage becomes stuck from lack of use and sees very little use normally.
If you get the WSM for that model it will break down all the required steps for testing and if needed the replacement of the clutch, or any other steps and procedures needed to repair it.
If it is a dual disk clutch, you must follow the repair procedure and adjustment to the tee, as they can be fairly tricky to setup and get right.
I replaced the Clutch on my Massey Ferguson, When I traded it for my Kubota I told the sales guy about it, He kept saying " You did what"?? "You Split that Tractor in Half"?? I said Yeah, 3 Floor Jacks and an Engine hoist/No Problem 
Its Not for the Non Mechanically inclined, that's for sure.... ( I was fine with it)
Its Not for the Non Mechanically inclined, that's for sure.... ( I was fine with it)Splitting a tractor that ends up not need to be separated (no matter what you skill level is) is like going to a dance and having to dance with the only girl with warts all night!!!
If you have to----you have to----but it ain't fun!!
Make sure there is something in there that needs fixed.
If you have to----you have to----but it ain't fun!!
Make sure there is something in there that needs fixed.
I just did mine (L1500 DT), a first for me, hell my first tractor. I did it with the FEL (front end loader) attached, was not sure how it would work out.
Turned out it was perfectly balanced, I have two Harbor Freight car dollies under the loader and can roll her around using them and the front wheels.
Was much to my surprise, a VERY easy job, easier than most automobile clutches. Getting the transmission loose from the rear end was a little tougher
though, was dealing with what I believe is a 40+ year old factory sealed gasket.