Crummy BX handle

cerlawson

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Feb 24, 2011
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When reassembling the BX for servicing the tank, the fender had to be removed, requiring both handles to have the rear bolts taken out. When reassembling, my helper torqued the rear bolt on right handle a little too much and the insert came loose from the plastic handle. Note the flimsy nature of that insert, showing it really can't stand much force on it. One more crappy thing about this BX. I shudda gone blue. Never had such grief with my former blue tractors.
 

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CountryBumkin

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When reassembling the BX for servicing the tank, the fender had to be removed, requiring both handles to have the rear bolts taken out. When reassembling, my helper torqued the rear bolt on right handle a little too much and the insert came loose from the plastic handle. Note the flimsy nature of that insert, showing it really can't stand much force on it. One more crappy thing about this BX. I shudda gone blue. Never had such grief with my former blue tractors.
Smear some epoxy on the insert and reassemble.
 

sawmill

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When reassembling the BX for servicing the tank, the fender had to be removed, requiring both handles to have the rear bolts taken out. When reassembling, my helper torqued the rear bolt on right handle a little too much and the insert came loose from the plastic handle. Note the flimsy nature of that insert, showing it really can't stand much force on it. One more crappy thing about this BX. I shudda gone blue. Never had such grief with my former blue tractors.
Maybe your post number has something to do with it. :eek::D
 

85Hokie

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Smear some epoxy on the insert and reassemble.
first thought I had before reading yours!

Two part epoxy will hold that sucker in there - I use it all the time.

Anything plastic cannot take a lot of torque before bad things happen!:D
 

tcrote5516

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Not sure that issue is reflective of Kubota quality...pretty sure that's basic physics of materials. The handle works just fine when you dont overtighten it.

Like complaining about sheetrock quality after you hang a picture on the wall with a tack and a sledgehammer.
 

cerlawson

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Thanks for the suggestion of epoxy. The question comes up as to just how. What can be placed inside to avoid filling the threads? Maybe a wax plug. How to remove wax without messing up threads. Heat? Perhaps a bottoming tap.
 

85Hokie

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Thanks for the suggestion of epoxy. The question comes up as to just how. What can be placed inside to avoid filling the threads? Maybe a wax plug. How to remove wax without messing up threads. Heat? Perhaps a bottoming tap.
I am assuming that the torque "twisted" the insert out - or rather it lost the grip of friction inside the plastic.

Take the bolt and thread IT on the "nut" - then place your two part epoxy around the "threads" of the insert. Either force it back in carefully - (like in a vise) or rotate it back in the little hole that is messed up.

Once back in - let it dry - if you did a good job NOT getting epoxy on the threads of the bolt - it should back out easily. The insert should be allowed to dry before placing it back on - and then snug, and be done!
 

CountryBumkin

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Thanks for the suggestion of epoxy. The question comes up as to just how. What can be placed inside to avoid filling the threads? Maybe a wax plug. How to remove wax without messing up threads. Heat? Perhaps a bottoming tap.
I would just wipe some on the outside of the insert (maybe with a toothpick or similar small object) then push the insert back into place. If any epoxy squeezes out just wipe it off, keeping out of threads. It won't take much.
Good luck
 

cerlawson

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Went together with some significant resistance to insertion. Set the bolt in the insert and pounded on it. Took several tries to get it to fully seat. Corrosion on one end of the original indicated it had not been fully seated before. Removed bolt and had to chase the threads with die due to epoxy getting there. If insert is not clean, I can run the tap there later.

Thanks guys
 

85Hokie

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Went together with some significant resistance to insertion. Set the bolt in the insert and pounded on it. Took several tries to get it to fully seat. Corrosion on one end of the original indicated it had not been fully seated before. Removed bolt and had to chase the threads with die due to epoxy getting there. If insert is not clean, I can run the tap there later.

Thanks guys

let us know how it comes back together, in case it happens to one of us!:)
 

D2Cat

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I would have suggested a dab of wheel bearing grease on the threads and the end of the bolt before threading the insert onto them.
 

ShaunRH

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Setting these inserts is a pain. I'd replace with a hex type screw in insert w/epoxy follow up. You can add a lubricated nylon bolt so the threads are kept clear of the epoxy while it's 'wet' or chase them with a tap as was previously stated.

I know CERLawson has already done the work, but if this comes up in the future, those screw in types are a breeze to work with in soft materials.

http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Unhead-...6931&sr=8-9&keywords=screw+in+threaded+insert
 

Toyboy

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You could have wiped a light film of oil on the bolt before screwing it into the insert too. That would have kept the threads clean
 

cerlawson

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Great comments. Next day check shows the insert had no epoxy in threads or blocking inside recess or in front. Will wait until tomorrow to assemble, since the temp in the area was about 50 F or little lower slowing the set of the J-B weld.

High resistance in final depth to install the insert shows that the factory install was not fully into the handle, explaining the ease of failure. One other point, my helper, a trapping 20 year old, is stronger than this 87 yr old by far. No need for an impact wrench with this guy.

Still I look upon this flimsy method to secure a hand grip as rather cheap.
 

Kurtee

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glad to hear the repair suggestion worked.

we refer to over tightened things as "Goon-torqued" around here. give him a shorter wrench next time. Kinda lucky it was only a handle
 

lugbolt

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Have done a few of those. Wanted to invent new words but I know better.

Take the insert, glue it back into the handle. Do not install the handle until the glue is dry, typically 24 hours. Once it's dry, run a 10mm 1.25 tap or thread chaser into the insert. Now install it, using never-seize on the threads of the bolt. That's the most reliable way to do it. It's easy to "oblong" the insert, and I am thinking that when they get seized, and the wrench is trying to remove it and the insert spins, the only way to get the handle off is to pull up on the handle and pull it off of the insert. Then grab the insert with a plier of choice and unscrew it from the bolt. While the plier is on it, it's easy to make the insert "oblong" because it's soft brass. That's why I suggest running a tap into it after gluing it.
 

cerlawson

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Job finished. From all that appears now, seems like a secure fix.

Thanks for the hints. I was about to abandon that hand grip.