L35 clutch and FEL removal

hammer49

New member

Equipment
L35
Apr 20, 2015
6
0
0
new york
Was wondering the proper way to take off the front end loader off my machine.I was considering doing this clutch myself since am a mechanic but would need to make something to hold up the engine part after it is split.Was wondering if anybody done them before and give me some good advice.or should i find a kubota guy or tractor mechanic to do this job.I live in the lower Hudson Valley.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

rentthis

Member
Lifetime Member
May 30, 2012
998
21
18
summerville,sc
I have done that job a couple of times. We used 2 floor jacks with wheels and jack stands for support. Your operators manual will probably tell you how to remove the FEL and backhoe. If you get a price to have it done, keep in mind that it seems like every bolt and fitting on the tractor has to come loose. The job is "doable" but it ain't fun. After having done it twice, I sent them to the dealer from then on. If you don't have an operators manual, let me know and I will try to find one for you.
 

hammer49

New member

Equipment
L35
Apr 20, 2015
6
0
0
new york
Thanks for your advise something to consider,i would appreciate the manual cause i dont have one.What does it cost to have it done by the dealer?

Thanks
 

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,988
4,370
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
hammer49, I have not separated an L35 so nothing specific to your machine. I have separated a couple 60HP tractors and just finished a B7100.

You get the attachments off and the rest is pretty basic. You have to get the front stripped down enough to separate: which is wiring, hyd, fuel.

Block the rear tires front and back so they can not move. Have blocks of wood (cribbing) available to support the back half. Use a jack to support the back and a floor jack to support the front. Always insert a wooden piece on both sides of front axle where axle pin allows front to rock. This keep the engine from rolling side to side when removed from bolts. Remove bolts holding bell housing to engine and rock or pry engine gently to get separation. Then pull floor jack away from back to get distance you need.

If you have a hoist this is all simplified.

Install cribbing under rear to get stability and not trust the jack. Leave the jack, just have a backup. On front do the same. Replace parts, reverse procedure.

Patience is a virtue when you're saving money by doing it yourself!
 

rentthis

Member
Lifetime Member
May 30, 2012
998
21
18
summerville,sc
It has been a long time since I have owned an L-35 so I can't be sure of the current price. 10 or so years ago, it was around $1500.00. It's no doubt more now. Send me your address @ rentthis@aol.com and I will try to find you the L-35 tractor backhoe and loader manuals. These won't be workshop manuals but the wsw can be downloaded online.
 

hammer49

New member

Equipment
L35
Apr 20, 2015
6
0
0
new york
Thanks D2CAT and Rentthis you guys just give me a like more confidence in doing this job.I built my 68 Camaro rs/ss,so this shouldnt be that bad the loader was my only worry since i dont have a hoist to remove it.Considering using a tree in my yard with a chain hoist but moving the tractor back to my garage would be a problem with the loader hyds line disconnected.Still contemplating.I guess i get caps for the Hyd lines?


Thanks
 
Last edited:

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
12,988
4,370
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
I've separated tractors in a barn with gravel flooring. I simply used a sheet of 3/4" plywood under the machine. It made rolling the jack real easy. Every tractor I've separated I did them by myself without overhead hoist.

I'd hate to have a tractor separated under a tree and have to leave it for a few days. However, if you have the parts to back in, and have no unexpected things to pay attention to, and don't have to wait for any machining work... you could button it right back up!
 

hammer49

New member

Equipment
L35
Apr 20, 2015
6
0
0
new york
I was wondering can the GST be causing my problem.the tractor will move in first,second,third,and forth i go to 5th and it stops i bring it back down to 4th 3th and its moves again but any slight incline and it stops.thats why i think its the dry clutch.the clutch pedal has the right amount of free play.Can the GST cause any of these problems, i changed the hyd filter it was clean and still same problem.Any thoughts D2CAT?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,610
5,070
113
Sandpoint, ID
It's NOT the clutch!
Get the WSM for the tractor and it will walk you through troubleshooting it. ;)
 

nathanturner

New member

Equipment
L35 BH,FEL
Apr 4, 2014
32
0
0
Berea
Has there been anymore info in this problem? My L35
Won't climb a hill at all. I thought it might be a
Bad shift assembly but that was a $580 misdiagnosis.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,610
5,070
113
Sandpoint, ID
Has there been anymore info in this problem? My L35
Won't climb a hill at all. I thought it might be a
Bad shift assembly but that was a $580 misdiagnosis.
Exact details on what it's doing and not doing are extremely important as there are 2 clutch's on a GST.

Very likely you have a Mechanical clutch disk that's fried if it will move in all or most all gears on flat ground.
It's very unlikely that it's a hydraulic disc clutch failure if it moves in most gears.

If you can put it in let's say 4th and go up to something solid and you can't stall it then very likely a mechanical clutch disk failure.

If you can stall it easily then there is something else going on.

If it doesn't move in all lower gears but immediately stops in high range 5-8 then it's an internal issue probably with the valve body.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
28,610
5,070
113
Sandpoint, ID
Does it go from gear to gear smoothly?

Sounds like it's a mechanical clutch issue. ;)
 

nathanturner

New member

Equipment
L35 BH,FEL
Apr 4, 2014
32
0
0
Berea
That's what i m leaning towards. Now I gotta sell my old gear shift assembly to try to recoup some of my money buying a part i didn't need.

Also wondering what all i should replace while i am in there.
 

lugbolt

Well-known member

Equipment
ZG127S-54
Oct 15, 2015
4,835
1,588
113
Mid, South, USA
I was also going to suggest, stuff it into 4th gear, take off and while the clutch pedal is up (engaged), mash the brake pedal. If tractor stops with engine still running (slipping), the dry clutch probably has issues. If no, try again in 5th. If it doesn't go at all in 5th but fine in 4th, you have a wet clutch or valve issue. There is a high and low range on these. 1-4 is low, 4-8 is high. Thats' why if you're shifting from 4th to 5th there is more of a delay than if you were shifting between any other gear.