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Old 07-14-2015   #11
1st Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Mississippi, USA
Posts: 10
Default Re: My new L3301

Short answer: "It depends." It's going to depend on your soil type, recent rainfall, and to what degree the ground is already compacted. For our place, heavy clay, and non-compacted soil. The ag-tires tore the ground up greatly, but I don't attribute this to L3301 in and of itself; I am sure the same would happen with any similarly sized tractor. Switching from the ag's to R4's made a good bit of difference but they can still tear up the ground when turning.
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Old 07-14-2015   #12
1st Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Crooked River Ranch, Oregon
Equipment: L3901, LA525, BH77, 72" BB, old Ford 22-63 PHD
Posts: 82
Default Re: My new L3301

I have an 3901 with AGs. FWIW, in my sandy/dusty soil I leave a lot of tracks. A neighbor (same soil type) with R4s on his BX model doesn't leave nearly the same marks... but some of that can be attributed to his lighter tractor.

Not a great comparative data point, rather something to offer for consideration.
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Old 07-15-2015   #13
4th Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Southern IL.
Equipment: 2012 Kubota L3800 HST W/FEL and 1963 JD 2010 row crop utility
Posts: 524
Default Re: My new L3301

I wouldn't let your first attempt at removing the FEL deter you. Once you get the hang of it, its no problem. Mine stays off until I need it then right back off again. I didn't read all the other responses but once you have it away from the tractor but still have the hydraulic lines hooked up, while its turned off, move your joystick thru all of the motions, this will make it easier to hook back up. The ride of the tractor will be much better with it of, not to mention the reduced wear and tear of the front end.

Just my two cents of course...
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Old 07-17-2015   #14
1st Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Perry,Ill.
Posts: 12
Default Re: My new L3301

Don,t give up on loader removal. It really make mowing nicer.
A quick hitch for 3 pt.is a must if you change your rear impl.very often.They are not to expensive.
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Old 07-17-2015   #15
3rd Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pennsylvania
Equipment: L3901, with not enough attachments
Posts: 290
Default Re: My new L3301

I have an L3901 the same loader, it isn't hard to remove. however like my neighbor told me once you remove the loader you always find something to do with it.
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Old 11-06-2016   #16
Southern Yankee
1st Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Wellston, Oklahoma
Equipment: L3301 HST, Front Loader. Land Pride Brush-Hog, Box Blade, and Quick Hitch
Posts: 46
Default Re: My new L3301


I too bought a L3301 HST in Dec 2014. I am a 75 year old city kid replanted to the country. I bought the machine as a package deal with a front loader, brush-hog, box blade, and trailer to do yard work on 20 acres that is only good to grow weeds, scrub brush, red cedar, and Jack/Scrub Oak. However, in the country, if it is green, it is “grass”. I have over 8 acres of “grass” but I never had any intention to cut grass with the tractor.

I am retired Air Force and it is the first time in 45 years I have lived away from an air base. It is so quiet out here in the country about 40 miles north-east of Oklahoma City (nr Wellston) and every morning and evening I get to hear the coyotes sing (although they are a terror on cats and small dogs). I bought the machine to cut brush and dig a farm tank/pond. My wife had no problems with it; she just said it was something else to auction off when I pass on.

The first week I had it, I was like a bull in the china shop with the front loader or brush-hog banging into the trees. I also quickly learned that the box blade is not a good counter weight for a full front loader. Also experienced pure terror when I encountered a stump on one side of a dirt pile and the tractor wanted to tip that way. With the scoop and box blade I moved dirt all over the place but I had major washouts when the Oklahoma drought broke. When I went to work them, I buried the tractor to its axles in mud. That happened just at dusk but I had it out by 10 p.m. by repeatedly jacking and blocking it until I could get the trailer ramps under the front wheels. The front wheel drive pulled it right out.

I only have 60 hours on it now (Nov. 16) but it has spent most of the spring and summer in the barn as they have been putting a pipeline thru my back yard that cut me off from my back 10 acres. My un-worked property is either dense woods or tall grass inter-mixed with sumac and brush. I also have a deep seasonal wash that I want to turn into a pond. In heavy brush, I put the scoop low to knock down the big sumac and chop up the grass and brush with the brush-hog (look out for short stumps and use your seat belt as they are a real jar.) Interestingly, I have found my new Bad Boy zero-turn will do just as well in that stuff mowing down grass, small sumac and brush. Most of the trees are junk red cedar and Jack Oak. Jack/Scrub Oak have branches that grow to the ground. On old growth, most of the lower branches are dead. The dang stuff is like barbed wire making it difficult to get against the tree trunk to cut off the branches with a chain saw. As we have copperheads, I do not relish sliding through tall grass to hug a tree so I can trim it. Therefore, I was happy when I found out I could snap off most of these dead branches using the front loader and later clean them up by cutting the stubs close to the bark with a chain saw. I have cleared several acres this way. However, the little L3301 does not have enough heft to bowl over larger red cedars. They have to be dug out.

I too am afraid to pull off the front loader. The loader blocks the headlights at night. Raise the loader too high and the tractor get bouncy. Get it too low and it digs in on broken ground (good reason to wear the seat belt again)

Attaching implements is also a pain. I have wide rear tires. If I don’t get it just right the lower arms rub the tires. They also rub the tires when they are hanging loose with no implements attached unless they are wired together. When I put the tractor in the shop for a 50 hour, I had them install a quick-change unit (about $500 with taxes). Now I just back up to the implement and the lower links latch on. I still have to attach the upper link but that is easy. Newer implements have a hook to attach the upper link. However, the PTO is still a pain because of the overkill PTO safety cover. With the metal cover over the PTO, I just don’t see a need for that large plastic cover that blocks access to the lock ring. Someone jump in here if I am wrong or if you have a better way.

I have had several problems with the tractor. It is too heavy to drive across a lawn as it sinks in and the knobby tires chew up the grass. I was working with about 25 hours or so on the tractor and it would stall every time I hit the gas. I got it back to the barn by blipping the gas and moving forward a foot or two at a time. In the barn, I found the seat front pivot pin had slipped out on one side. This moved the seat flange so it could not hit the safety switch arm. I doubt the cotter pin for the seat pin was installed at the factory. I also lost a front wheel lug nut which makes we wonder if it was ever tight. Finally, I popped a low engine speed “P” code. This is a common problem with L3301s and L3901s but the dealer reprogrammed that during the 50 hour under warranty. I have less than 5 hours on it to see if that fix really worked.

I have several questions. I am thinking of buying a 66” Land Pride tiller. Does anybody have any pros or cons about that? Granted we don’t get much snow in Oklahoma but when we do, it drifts. Has anyone every installed rollers (like lawn mower deck rollers) on the front loader to keep it from tearing up an asphalt driveway or digging in on a county dirt road. I would appreciate any input.

I love my Orange Tractor.

Southern Yankee
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Old 01-15-2019   #17
1st Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Edgewood, New Mexico
Posts: 12
Default Re: My new L3301

I never remove my loader. I just remove the bucket for mowing. There's not a big difference in clearance between a loaderless tractor, and just removing the bucket.
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Old 01-15-2019   #18
1st Yr. Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Edgewood, New Mexico
Posts: 12
Default Re: My new L3301

Richard - the best way to push snow without tearing up asphalt or gravel is to push or pull with the back side of a rear blade in the 3ph float position. Either push the snow in reverse or turn the blade around when going forward so the blade isn't cutting, just dragging or pushing snow. I've been doing this for many years.

Last edited by North Idaho Wolfman; 01-16-2019 at 10:04 AM.
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l series, l3301, la525, newbie, tractor

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