unknown problem SVL 95 2s

Remote 95

New member

Equipment
ZD 331 Mower
Jan 15, 2020
23
1
3
South, Ga.
trying to work a SVL 95 2s; this machone has problems in that it wont start. The starter clicks as if there is a dead battery. I know for a fact the battery is not dead. Jumpiong does no good either. same clicking sound. No error codes flash. There is however the following on the diplay, at bottom a battery , slightly left and up a symbol with a lock and above that a P . What could the causes for this type of problem. Again NO error codes.
 

200mph

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L4740-3 Cab, FEL, Fnt Snow Blower L2185, LP Finish Mower, LP Rotary Mower
Mar 3, 2017
1,228
58
48
PA
Bad battery cables including grounds.

Rodents chewing on wires.

Suggest measuring voltages and performing a voltage drop test on the circuit.
 

Roadworthy

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L2501 HST
Aug 17, 2019
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Start at the battery. Clean the posts and the terminals going onto the posts. Check for corrosion at the connectors to the cable. Follow the negative wire. You will find it soon becomes frame ground. Be sure this contact is tight and clean - no paint acting as an insulator between the connector and the frame. Go to the starter and be sure mounting bolts are tight. That's how it picks up its ground. Make sure the cable connection is tight. If you follow the starter cable back a little bit the next thing in line should be starter solenoid.
 

Remote 95

New member

Equipment
ZD 331 Mower
Jan 15, 2020
23
1
3
South, Ga.
Installed new battery this morning. Machine cranked right up. Ran the machine 4-6 hours and in that time battery icon came on moniter. Also had a water leak develop and drip water out right rear of machine. machine went into I guess limp mode. Jumped battery fro about 30 minites while trip to town. Filled radiater. Started machine up and was trying to drive it to shop. Traveled about 500 yards then machine went into limp mode again and would not start with jumper cables attached (about 5 minites), Pulled battery, came home and put on charger for tomorrow morning. Obviously battery is not charging while running, and I remember battery icon coming on but machine ran some time after before limp mode, Any advice on that appreciated. Also where could water leak be coming from and where to acess that hose? unbolted rediater and slid back to pull battery, Didnt see any water coming from radiater and or top hose?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
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Sandpoint, ID
Yea on these units you can't just simply ignore warning symbols and lights, bad things happen really quickly because of it.

It might be going into limp mode because something is really wrong, like maybe the engine is overheating, maybe it has thrown a belt and not charging or cooling because of it?

Check everything completely before you keep running it!
 

Remote 95

New member

Equipment
ZD 331 Mower
Jan 15, 2020
23
1
3
South, Ga.
Have tilted cab and looked at belts etc. All look good. Could someone please tell me about the skid plate or plates under the machine in case we have to repair the water leak or some type of leak in aforementioned location?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Jun 9, 2013
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Sandpoint, ID

Remote 95

New member

Equipment
ZD 331 Mower
Jan 15, 2020
23
1
3
South, Ga.
Thank you for any advice, much appreciated. I located a service manuel last night and printed the page explaining the symbols. Was a big help today when running the machine. I also printed the parts of the service manuel that I thought pertained to problems with this machine. Please keep in mind that this machine is borrowed, the owner cannot find and did not know where the service manuel was or is. He is very little help and is distancing himself from the problems and expense of these mechanical issues. I am trying to use the machine to reduce his debt to me. Please realize that I am trying to take care of these issues and definately do not want to damage such a fine machine but it has issues when I got it. First it is losing coolant from the very top of the radiater where the fins meet the inner top. There is absolutely no sighn of physical damage on either side (front or back) I have videoed as best I can the area where water is leaking to show no puncture, fins bent, or physical damage.
I have learned to tilt the cab and look for any problems from that end. I also have learned to unbolt and move the radiator rearward to look for problems and to remove the battery.
This machine has two problems and had them when I picked it up, (1,) it had the aforementioned rediator leak. (2.) The charging system is not keeping the battery charged. I can put a fully charged battery in it in the morning and it will run a couple of hours then the battery Icon will appear on the moniter. The machine will keep running but if you shut the machine off you need to exchange to another battery to get it to crank. My guess is that the alternater is not charging and keeping the battery up. If someone would be so kind as to give me suggestions as well as options and prices for another alternater if need be. I understand and admit this computeriezed machine is out of my league but under the circumstances taking it to the dealer would be unwise as i am not the owner and I know he already has a unpaid bill with them locally. I apologize for the long post but I am trying to work thru a very unusual situation and would like to help see everbody come out and possibly resolve it where everyone can be satisfied.
 

Daren Todd

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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
May 18, 2014
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The radiator could have some bad solder joints where the fins meet the top of the radiator.

You can pull the radiator and have it checked by a reputable radiator repair shop. If the radiator is a combination plastic and metal radiator, then it's probably gonna need replacing.

As far as the charging system goes. Your gonna need a decent digital multimeter/ voltmeter.

You need to check two places on the alternator for voltage. The main lug where it gets power coming in. It will be the largest wire going to it. Check to see if your reading battery voltage (12 volts to 12.8 volts) on a fully charged battery.

If no power, then you have an issue with the wire between the alternator to the battery.

The second place is what they call the exciter wire. It should have power when the key is turned on and attaches to the alternator either through a quick connect, or smaller gauge wire via either a spare connection or round terminal with a bolt. If no power coming into that wire with the key turned on, then it either has a blown fuse, bad diode (if equipped) or bad wire.

If your alternator has power coming to it from both places and it's not charging (reading 13.5 to 14 volts) then the alternator needs a rebuild.

But before diving into the wiring of the alternator, the quickest and simplest option is to check your fuses. If you find a blown one. Replace the fuse, start the machine and check the voltage at the battery. If your reading 13.5 to 14 volts then your good to go :D

I didn't notice whether you had the battery tested or not. If your just charging the battery, then having it not start the next day, then you could very well have a bad cell (small short) in the battery causing it to not hold a charge.

Easiest way I found, was to charge the battery fully. After the chargers removed. Let the battery sit for about 20 minutes. If the battery is in your machine disconnect the ground wire before charging and leave it disconnected while doing this test.

Check the battery voltage after 20 minutes. This should give the battery enough time for the voltage to settle from charging. Should read around 12.5 volts or so.

Let the battery set over night and check the voltage again. If it's still sitting right around 12.5 volts then the battery is good.

If it's dropped a significant amount then the battery has an internal short or bad cell.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

whitetiger

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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
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Kansas City, KS
Do not disconnect the battery on an SVL95-2 for at least 10 minutes after shutting off the engine. The DEF pump needs to run and circulate fluid to cool the DEF injector sticking into the exhaust pipe. If you disconnect before it is cooled it will if not already damage it. They are about $900.00. If it starts leaking into the wiring harness connector, the DEF will run thru the harness damaging the harness and ACU. The harness is $1800.00, takes 16 hours to replace. The ACU is about $1200.00.

You probably should quit running the unit, find and repair the no charge problem now rather than cause another $5000.00 damage to it.

The radiator - hydraulic oil cooler is all aluminum and is one unit. Pull it out and take it to a competent radiator shop for repair.