Newbie TNT question b2410

beerbeer95648 said:

Is it possible to add a Top and Tilt setup on a B2410 without having to install a rear remote kit? Meaning with the right valve can a TNT kit be plumbed in to the valve? Trying to keep cost down. So just a top link, side cylinder, valve, tubing and fittings and a way to mount it? Or do I need to just suck it up and start with a remote hydraulic kit.....

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If you have a loader, you can simply use the loader connections. Pretty tough to go any cheaper than that.

If you decide to get a separate set of valves, I recommend that you get the factory Kubota set.

Beer beer - just so you know, member MtnViewRanch that responded to you fabricates great TNT kits, and knows what he’s talking about. He’s a one man show, so he has great help. [emoji41]

Wolfman is a site moderator and he’s aces for anything related to Kubota tractors.

I saw you were a new member, so I wanted to point that out. These guys aren’t just guessing....

Good luck !

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Have to ask what's the deal with a Hydraulic Top Link ?
Don't you just 'set and forget' the top link once the implements adjusted correctly ?

GreensvilleJay said:

Have to ask what's the deal with a Hydraulic Top Link ?
Don't you just 'set and forget' the top link once the implements adjusted correctly ?

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If you do not have hydraulic top link you do not know what you are missing. Hooking up implements become much easier. By running out the top link and placing the pin the HTL is worth the cost by itself, not fighting to get that pin in.The ability to tilt the rear of a bush hog so that you can get on top of the materials to chew them up is amazing. If you do not mow for other people who only want to pay once a year to mow you are lucky. Or cleaning up around the edge of a field instead of ramming into a clump of brush just raise up and over it. Works great when you need it. Also when using the box blade it becomes easy to dig into a high spot and then feather it, by shorting the TL.

Jay - I don't have an hydraulic top link and am pretty good with my box blade, even with the 1/4- inching feature of a BX's 3PH.

I do have to adjust the top link length regularly. For my work, isn't a big deal. Sounds like you. However, sometimes I thought it would be handy, when I might want to change TL length on almost every pass with the BB, like BigG mentions.

I asked because my 'big' tractors are all Allis-Chalmers with 'Snap-Coupler' setups. Think 'quick hitch meets 'upside down' 3 point with implement adjustment ON the implement. In 30 seconds I can have the 3F plow on and it's preset, go to field, dig dirt. Swapping tractors or implements means NO fiddling with a 'top link', just connect and go.
Using an adjustable toplink has to affect the geometry of the implement(tilts the back higher or lower),so you're just 'tweaking' it for a short time, why not raise the implement instead, as you'll have to 'retweak' to get it to the correct spot? Just curious...
I've converted my 3pt implements( tiller, rake,cults) to Snap-Coupler. Easier to get on/off and use.

I learned something today. I did not know A/C ran a different hook up system. Anyway I took a quick look and it seams as if you have a TL but it stays with the implement. You do not get the "pleasure" of using the ford top link.

As I stated earlier the hydro TL makes the elevation of the rear of the bush hog an important plus. Knocking brush down along a fence row or dipping the rear of the mower down to the edge of a lake is very useful.

I ran a 3ph round bale mover with the HTL and it was nice to change the angle of the spear so that it would slide into the bale easier. Then you tip the rear of the spear up as you run across the field to keep the bale on the spear. As you place the bale it is nice to adjust the tilt to set the bale and let it stay as you pull away from it.

I have also see it used with a 3 point boom. It greatly increases the height the boom can go. There is a cost to it though. As you shorten the TL the object you are lifting swings closer to the tractor.

BigG, thanks for the 'why I use it' reply.
yes, Early A-Cs have 'Snap-Coupler', then perverted to be 'industry standard' 3 pointers....
S-C is a better system as the pull of the implement is at the lowest point. Also the hydraulics are linked to the snapcoupler which give impressive 'traction boost' or Ford 'draft control'.
With S-C you don't have to get OFF the stock A-C tractor to load/unload the implements. It's interesting that the 'quick hitch' systems kinda do that but the 4-6" extra length means more adjustments unless all your tractors have the same QH setup. I can see the benefit of the HYdro toplink, just prefer to 'click and go', getting to old to fight heavy implements....