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The radiator was the problem, got it re-cored by a local shop. They said it wasn't blocked but the core did seem cheap. Runs between 180 and 200 when mowing.

RECAP: Freshly rebuilt engine D1301-a in a kubota l295dt. New radiator, water pump, thermostat, valves, valve seats, gaskets, bearings, welch plugs, head gasket + shim, radiator cap (14 psi). Block was re sleeved, head magna fluxed and shaved as it was warped. There is basically no temp...

I'm using regular coolant, doesn't ever get below 65 here, I've found that even if I mix 50/50 it doesn't make a difference, we usually run it straight.

There is a good chance that they are clogged, but I sorta dismissed that because of the amount of flow that I can see. Plus I have flushed the system multiple times. I will se if I can get it rodded later this week, or even a better core.

I can take the radiator out of my st30 if that will work, thats down for a cracked frame. If not I have radiators from a couple cars, maybe way too big but its worth a shot.

I measured the temp with the IR thermometer initially at the upper neck and the lower neck, then just by measuring at the tanks. There was no difference there, when I measured at the hoses the temp went up a considerable amount, almost 80 degrees, so I didn't go off of the hose measurements...

No, when we got the tractor it had been put down because the rear axle seals were leaking, sat for so long that every body panel and sheet metal component wrought off of it.

Its a new water pump, old one started to leak. Its an el cheapo radiator from all state ag parts, was only ~$290 compared to $1000 for one from kubota. By the looks of it its made in turkey by kada radiators, you can basically look straight through the radiator, unlike most other radiators where...

Yes we added the head gasket shim, I spared the details but I will go through them all for clarity. Head magnafluxed, shaved, valve seats done. It takes 25-30 min to get to 230, depending on the load. Mainly when I am cutting grass, the mower doesn't seem to bog it really at all but its enough...

The oem thermostat in in it, the gunk in the block was much less than I thought. Really was only between the welch plugs and the bores. When doing a system flush the water/vinegar comes out the same colour as it went in. I believe it is the cheap radiator if I buy a new one I will let yall know.

If there were to be a blockage where would it be, when the thermostat was out there was really good through the rad. I honestly have a feeling its the cheap radiator, you can basically look right through the thing. The shroud is in good order and the fan is in the correct orientation.

it has in a new water pump and the belt is tight. I cant get redline water wetter but I can royal purple purple ice, which I might try. belt is tight, fan is spinning as it should and is moving good air. Anyone know how many cores a oem rad has?

Just took the temps again and yep basically the same thing, took them at a lower temp this time but. Gauge temp 210 F Upper tank: 201 F Lower tank: 198 F

Yes, the tanks on the radiator, top and bottom, I will go and take temps again

I have the temps, one of my gauges isn't accurate at all but. Temp gauge reading: 230 F Upper tank next to hose: 213 F Lower tank next to hose: 209 F Checked and it has a 3 core radiator.

No, brand new temp gauge, engine was rebuilt due to overheating/ low power/ low compression. New sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings, valves+seats and gaskets. Head was surfaced when he block was re-sleeved. Did the bubble check and there is no bubbles.

It has a 14 psi cap on it, I 100% agree with the thermostat needing to be in, but it seems everyone down here just removes it as the very first thing I will check the accuracy of the temp gauge, it is a brand new temp gauge but I will check it. Willing to do anything at this point, grass needs...

Am I completely screwed? I've taken out all of he plugs and cleaned out the inside to the best of my ability with it still in. I've rebuild diesels before, namely Mitsubishis and never had a problem. After a bit more research the radiator I have was made in turkey and it really was cheap...

Sure thing, forgot I had one of those, what should the the approx temp difference be?

UPDATE: installed the new thermostat and changed the welch plugs, took quite a lot longer to get to 230 but it still did. I will start the coolant flush with vinegar tomorrow. Could this have anything to do with the aftermarket rad? Comparing it to the original radiators online it seems to...