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Thank you for being a good neighbor.

I found this a pretty good demonstration of what I am trying to convey to you.

I do not think you are looking at the problem correctly. What you stated about the weight distribution between the front and rear axle would work if the weight (load) is added between the front and rear axles. When you place the load in front of the front axle there is no weight added to the...

I am not trying to argue but this comes from the loader manual for my L2501.

Why would you want to argue about physics? The weight hanging off the three point will reduce the weight on the front axle. Look at any tractor with a front end loader. All the weight is transferred to the front pivot that holds the axle to the body of the tractor no matter the brand of the...

You need to use a weight on the rear of the 3 point. If you stop to figure the amount of weight that you are adding to the front axle when used as shown you will quickly realize that you are overloading the axle. The rear weight will transfer some of the weight to the much stronger rear axle...

Yes a ball is all you need. Standard sizes are 1 7/8, 2 or 2 5/16 inches. As tureg50 suggested remove the drawbar and take it with you so the bolt on the ball hitch fits correctly in diameter as well as in length.

The best way to tow a trailer is to hook it to the draw bar. The problems include having to dismount to hook up the trailer. You must watch the tongue of the trailer hitting the 3 point arms. The biggest problem might be trying to find a trailer ball, if needed, to fit the draw bar. The...

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If you are asking about your question about the L2500 2wd, there are not very many of those around to start with and it is more then 20 years old so it may take awhile for some one to answer. You might go to Messick's parts catalog and see if it shows a plug or a grease fitting for your tractor.

After looking at their website I would be worried to that the tractor is to low to the ground. I have had to make some mods to Cat 1 attachments to work on a larger tractor because the tractor did not set high enough so the machine was angled correctly. Also you need to drive with some speed...

Pull up to a tree then use the hydraulics to push the one side against the tree. This will give you much better control then trying to push with the tractor itself.

Could go old school. https://signalguys.com/Back-Up-Bell-6-inch-BKA_p_688.html

Could go old school. https://signalguys.com/Back-Up-Bell-6-inch-BKA_p_688.html

I have a L2501 with R4 tires. I did not notice the lack of wheel weight holes until it was several months old or I would have purchased R1 tires that have the weight holes already in place. I removed the weights from a MF1528 when I traded it in and when I am able I will drill and mount them to...

I planned on taking a small pancake compressor and my Honda generator to the site with a blow nozzle. I also have a powerful backpack blower, Husky / Redmax 580 BTS. That might work as well. Check out the Honda running the compressor before you carry it to the job. I was going to do the same...

Try M E Miller Tire out of Ohio. They get all kinds of odd tires.

When I was a kid we had a set of disc that were attached with a pintle hitch to the tractor. We used a clevis to hook the disc to the tractor. This arrangement allows the disc to move independent of the tractor as you crossed the plowed fields and the leveling disc was able to do its job.

You might look into covering the wheels with rubber treads from a tire. The Amish often do this on their steel wheeled machinery. That way the machine stays original and it becomes more roadable.

First the low oil in the front axle has nothing to do with your current problem. It needs to be filled back to the proper level. From the pictures I would guess that you have a connection that is not tight and the oil was pumped out. If you check the transmission fluid level. I am sure it is...