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It appears you have a ten year old tractor. The official Kubota loader for that one is an LA243A. Your dealer is unlikely to have one in stock and they may no longer be available. There are after market loaders by Koyker and others which may fit. You were advised to sell the tractor and buy...

Try using your internet browser to look for L3000DT manuals. I tried and had several hits. This one looked promising: http://www.manuals.group/results.php?search=KUBOTA%20L3000DT

If you've mounted the snow blower on the three point at the rear that will simply add a bit of extra weight for more traction when using the FEL.

I mow and manage to do everything else with my L2501 including snow removal. I'm only at about 500 feet, though. I got the L2501 due to its simplicity - no computer, no DPF, hence less to go wrong. Get a ballast box or load the tires and it should do fine. As far as pulling the box blade it...

It does sound like your battery won't carry the load. Monitor the battery voltage when somebody attempts a start. If it stays near 12.6 thoroughly clean and tighten cables. Don't forget the ground cable at the frame. If the voltage drops below 11 or so it's probably time for a new battery.

I suspect the unit is defective if you can't turn it off. Have your granddaughter arrange an exchange

The basic starter circuit is pretty simple. If all the safeties are satisfied when you turn the key the starter engages. Normally when you're running all these are not satisfied so turning the key shouldn't activate the starter. The key switch energizes a solenoid (a really heavy relay) which...

Shoot a line to NGK. They can advise on the correct glow plug for your tractor and probably sell them for far less than Kubota who doesn't manufacture them anyhow.

Check the battery voltage when you try to engage the starter. It should be above ten volts. If it is then clean and tighten battery cables. Follow ground cable to frame, clean and tighten there, too. From there we can start troubleshooting.

The head gasket would be a good starting point. It is probably not related to your coolant recovery problem. For that one I'd check the line between the radiator and recovery tank first and insure it's not leaking. Be sure the recovery tank itself has no cracks and the lid seals tightly.

Start by charging your battery with the charger then have it load tested. If your charger can't put on an adequate charge your tractor won't charge it either.

Remove cables from the battery. Clean battery terminals and cable connectors well. Inspect cables for corrosion near the connectors. If corroded replace. Put cables back on battery and tighten securely. If you can move them they're not tight. Follow ground to frame. Clean and tighten...

Remove the cylinder and take it to a local hydraulic shop. They'll probably do the job for only slightly more than it would cost for Kubota seals.

A short to ground would drain your battery pretty quickly and/or blow fuses. Is the 2-3 volts at the fuses on the input side or the output side? If it's the input side you're probably losing power due to bad connections. Check voltages in and out of the ignition switch. Find our how the fuse...

You could consider an external hydraulic pump on the rear PTO to run a hydraulic blower on the front.

This is where your voltmeter comes in handy. If battery terminals are clean and tight and the ground connection is, too, monitor voltage at the battery while someone attempts a start. It should drop no lower than ten. Check to see if you've got proper voltage to your add on relay when the...

Charge the battery then have it load tested. Clean battery terminals and connectors, put back together then tighten securely. If you can move the connector it's too loose. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten. This is the starting point for troubleshooting.

While cleaning cable connectors and battery terminals inspect connection to cable. If corroded it may need replaced. Do not overlook the frame ground connection point. After replacing connectors on battery terminals tighten securely. If you can move them they're not tight.

I can't tell you the physical locations on your tractor but the PTO needs to be off, you need to be sitting in the seat, and you need to depress the clutch. It may have a neutral switch as well.

If you have a sticking valve as the tech suggested warranty should cover it. It's not your problem.