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If replacing the seal is not correcting the problem I'll agree with Dan, it may be time to replace the pump.

You should not have to crack the throttle to "a few hundred rpm". It should start at idle which is about 1000 or 1100 rpm. If it doesn't start like it used to and it's only a year old it may be time to go in for a check up. Warranty should cover any problems you're having.

That's kind of a nifty idea. I've bee throwing my chains on top of the ballast box.

I've not seen your tractor but glow plugs are similar to spark plugs. There will be a wire running to each. You disconnect the wire then use a socket to remove the glow plug. You may want to check to see if they're even getting voltage, though. The coil on the dash doesn't usually glow very...

Some tractors have a fusible link. Does yours?

You could try a shot of WD-40 to see if that frees things up.

Some tractors have a fine screen on the suction side of the hydraulics. You could check for blockage.

Another thought might be to have that pair of cylinders rebuilt. That way they'll be starting out equal again.

What else do you do with the tractor? You certainly can't run a brush hog if the hoe is attached. You probably need to remove the hoe to use the three point. Do you need to remove the sub frame and reinstall the three point arms? Take into account how much back and forth will be needed.

According to the Tractor Data website it's on the left side of the clutch housing. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/1/4/5147-kubota-b7100hst.html

When I wanted holes for my carport I just rented a Bobcat locally. It easily went the required 36".

Try removing the fuel line at the fuel tank or fuel filter to see if you get a good steady flow of fuel. Sometimes there is a blockage inside the tank preventing fuel from exiting. It's also possible your fuel filter itself is blocking the flow. Once in awhile even new ones are defective...

You may buy the wrenches as a flare nut wrench. They can also be had in socket form as a crow foot wrench. Of course they're available in either metric or SAE. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=flare%20nut%20wrench%20set

Ultra low sulfur diesel is recommended for your tractor. That's really all that's available now so it's not an issue. Use the same diesel all the trucks use. In the cooler weather you should seek winterized diesel or get an additive and mix it yourself.

If you're attempting to pump into the open air the pump won't put out any pressure to speak of. Try it on the tractor. If you have a shop anywhere close that works on the "big rigs" they can probably work on your pump. One of the local tractor dealers sends all his injectors and pumps...

According to Tractor Data there were a couple different mower decks for that tractor - the RCB-60-1 and the RC-82H. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1274-kubota-b8200-attachments.html

You could probably even get by temporarily with a hardened bolt and a self locking nut.

I don't know which cable is what but in many cases you may be able to replace the inner cable rather than replacing the sheath, too.

Perhaps the seller still has the missing parts kicking around the garage. If contacted you may even get instruction how to connect the mower.

The loader should operate regardless of the position of the three point lever. Has the loader ever operated correctly? If not it is possible the hydraulic lines are configured incorrectly.