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I'm looking for a backup tractor. I was hoping for 40+ hp, but there is a L3301 HST up for auction. The all knowing google has not been able to find much bad about this model, so I'm looking for informed opinions, good, bad or otherwise. And an estimate of value, in Canukistan Pesos.

Never heard that before... not sure if I believe it. However, I normally unplug mine so I don't kill myself tripping on the extension cord.

Why?

Are you sure the new ones are the same? Longer threaded portion on the new ones?

Somebody that knows the proper expression! Sorry, but "the proof is in the pudding" is a pet peeve of mine. I check all my puddings and I have yet to find proof in any of them. Sorry for the side track... now back to our regularly scheduled discussion.

Oil doesn't normally flow uphill... the fact that the cylinder is dirtier above the fitting than it is below suggest to me that it is not a leak. Wipe it down with a shop rag and carry on.

Is it leaking from a hole in the hose or is it leaking at one of the fittings? I had a leak on my backhoe that was just an O-ring... easy fix and it only cost $0.25.

They are "the first point to stop up" by design. Because they are easy to check and easy to clean. If it were the problem, bypassing it will only move the problem to somewhere less easily serviced.

Lots of people (myself included) use Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement +Cetane Boost (white bottle) when it gets cold. Was -37C here last week... I don't like taking chances.

If you can get a hold of a ball joint press (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7CO50E ), it is an off schedule use, but you might be able to press the pin out.

Care to define "cold weather"? My M6800 will start fine down to -10C or -15C, after that it will take two or three tries unless I have plugged in the block heater... at -30C it won't start without the block heater and I can't say I blame it.

My wife and daughter both know what a BFH is.

And then find a cat that likes peppermint flavoured mice. :)

So was this a one off event, or are you a serial tractor molester?

I think you found your problem, your positive battery cable. It is either the connection at one end or the other, or the cable is bad. 0.12 volts is a significant drop for a no load situation and dropping 12.7V under load means next to nothing is getting to your starter or glow plugs.

Starter relay is behind the instrument panel and you will need to pull the steering wheel. But first, two words :)... voltage drop test. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/my-thanks-to-dave_eng.59961/

I feel like a broken record, but... two words, voltage drop test... :)

Two words, voltage drop test. :)

The test should work when you turn the key to start. I was in the same situation back in September. Had a relay die and when I replaced it, the starter still would not crank. The voltage drop test found my problem. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/my-thanks-to-dave_eng.59961/