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Always been a fan of the B series. Have a neighbor with a bx that's a nice mower, but lacks in the tractor department. Dad's L has been a wonderful tractor but too big for around my place. The B series just fits that step up from garden tractor but not quite utility tractor size.

Ah I'm state side. A cheap runner can be had for around $2500. Cheaper if you have time to sit and wait and your after a bare tractor. That may be the best bet if your limited on money, but I'd expect to sink a good bit of time and money in it. Could be a fun project for you and your boy. Best...

Yeah the newer tractors come with them, and there are retrofit kits for some modules of tractors. I haven't been impressed with the retrofit kits from kubota and the generic telescopic stabilizer kits are pretty much a bad joke imo.

Usually there's a fill plug about halfway up the side of the gear case. Should be under the vent or breather plug/cap level.

It's gonna need a lot of work. Gonna have a few grand into it till it's done. Don't know where your from, but around here you can get an old rough runner that needs a little tlc for a reasonable price. Less then your gonna get into that thing.

Ill also ever understand a long term lease. Never made any sense to me. You pay for it, have all kinds of stipulations then you give it back. You can only claim so much of the lease for tax purposes. So unless it's a indeed the equipment for a big project, beyond the scope of a normal rental...

Seen that at wengers the other week too. Had my daughter with, whom made a bee line for it. She thought it was awsome. Asked the parts guy what was up with it, and he said it was just a show piece. They had no intention of running it. 🤷‍♂️ I don't mind the theme of the tractor, but I don't like...

Here's a link to his website. https://www.stabilworks.rocks/ He's a great guy to deal with. Paid $225.00 with shipping for my set. They are all hand made by Mark. Basically remove the chains and turn buckles and bolt these on. Easy as pie. There is a bit of a wait for them. I contacted Mark...

Not today, had to work, installed them yesterday. I got my stabilizer bars from Mark Hodge. Must say his work is excellent. Very happy with them.

Draw bar with clevis is the correct method for pulling. Captive pulling systems are best. No tow balls or tow hitches. They are made to pull rolling resistance and the "stuck" force is typically much greater then a trailer on the road. From quite a bit of experience with roll backs, wreckers...

Always something ain't? Best of luck brother, sounds like your gonna need some if the ground is that soft.

It's more of a knowing your material, how to set your gate and how the bed lifts at what ground speed. I was fairly decent at it in my Pete 10 wheeler, but it took pretty long to get ok at it. Also pretty much figured out I had to be moving at speed, bed up already then pop the gate and keep the...

I've seen engines run away form a lot of things, the crank case vent has never been one of them. Turbo, broken rings, mis aligned Piston cooling nozzles, fuel racks sticking. Never once seen or heard of the vent causing this. It's unrealistic at best and a lot of diesels engines have closed loop...

In a perfect world you should be reading temp right from the exhaust port on the engine. Realistically preturbo in the exhaust manifold, preferably in one of the hotter running cylinders.

The fancy figure 8 grooves probably arnt 100% nessisary. A lot of heavy equipment bushings either don't have them, a straight one, sometimes a long spiral. Doesn't seem to be material dependent.

One thing we need to remember is the tractors are purposefully made to have the front tires spin a little faster to aid in steering. Not a big deal in the dirt, but like you say on pavement it's pretty noticeable.

The older tractors had adjustable axles. You didn't add spacers to the wheels to get your row width right. They were also mostly 2wd which made it a lot easier to change the width out front. These 4wd tractors arw a fixed front width. Adding spacers just acts like a lever on your bearings and...

For what it's worth I was doing some loader work last night and thought about this. Kicked it into neutral and let it run down a little hill in 2wd and 4wd and didn't notice any difference between the two so far as rolling resistance. I would assume it should be about the same for your tractor...

Seems like you do about the same work with you B that I do with mine. I do have a few thoughts. Keep in mind the area your working in. I can get into places with my B that I can't get into with my dads L series. Which in my case means a lot. Truthfully your not getting that much more tractor...

I got too spoiled with the pro model exmarks, scaggs and those fully suspended Farris mowers when I worked at the township lol. Really made it hard to look at the cheaper models. I'm in no hurry, to upgrade atm. Getting a shop built has become a priority for me.