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Awesome transformation. You made that tractor look great!

If you saw all the salt and chemicals they put on our roads up here you'd understand, LOL.

If I could get that price up here I'd jump all over it. I'd jump all over it at 35!! LOL.

Let us know how Kubota is to deal with. Not brand bashing, but my dealer sells both Kubota and a green tractor and he said told me Kubota is way better to deal with for warranty stuff.

Nice tractor. I think you need a new dealer though. Set-up doesn't seem to be their thing.

Jusy my experience, but I used to use Power Service in my big trucks and my F-350. Then one day down in Sturgis Michigan the check engine light came on and my F-350 Powerstroke started running rough. Stopped at a dealer for a scan and they said 2 injectors dead and EGR valve seized. They...

True Texasboy . Maybe the JD owners post more in the tractor forums, I don't know, but the forums sure turned me off from wanting one. Just read through a JD forum.....it is one horror story after another. I don't see that much in all the other brands put together.

I don't follow John Deere's so I don't know what is going on with them, but the B3350 and L60 Kubota models are having lots of shut downs and fault codes especially in colder climates. And they have to regen quite often which involves not moving your tractor for 20 minutes or more while it sits...

Both nice machines, but the DPF related problems on these new tractors turn me off.

Nice tractor and bike. I used to race AMA District 14 Enduros on a KTM EXC 300.

I've posted this in my service thread, but the Kubota Workshop Manual contradicts the owners manual and says transmission/hydraulic oil MUST be changed at 50 hours.

Well the owners manual came with the tractor and I also got the shop manual and illustrated parts manauls. I was thinking maybe they never updated them from an earlier model? I did like the manual said after filling....let it run for several minutes at medium throttle, then, even though I...

Here's the engine oil drain plug. Manual shows a double sump oil pan with two plugs but mine is single sump.

Here's what I found. Pic #1 is what both manuals correctly show. Pic#2 is the 12mm I removed which is a gasketed drain plug. Manuals show you to remove the 14mm housing bolt which is just ahead of it. Pic#3 and 4 are the 12mm drain on the right side. Again, manuals show it as that 14mm housing...

Would have been nice if the $70.00 shop manual showed those. Mine looks nothing like that? Except for the first one.

This may not apply to all products, but I keep hearing this "someone else makes their filters and they are all the same." The way I look at it......Mack rear axles.....they used to be made by Rockwell to Mack specs. Now they are made by Eaton. If you look at Rockwell/Meritor or Eaton...

Did mine today. I'll post pics tomorrow. Mine has one drain plug for the engine as it has one sump in the oil pan. My manual shows two and the picture shows an oil pan with two sumps. The trans/hydro has three. A 17mm on the side of the mid pto snout, and one on each side of the trans...

Yes the front blowers are nice. But I can't be without my loader, lol. I carry the garbage out when I go do the driveway and bring firewood back in. Plus it's nice for knocking the high spots down. I started looking at cabs, but then I just realized I would have to remount my rear remote valve...

I don't know if it was a bad idea, but the more amps the better if you run lots of lights. I guess you noticed by now you have to take your side panel off to check the engine oil?

Actually it is kinda because of the cold. Those small engines can't produce enough exhaust heat to maintain the DPF regens. You would have to keep it under very heavy load all the time to keep it happy. My new DD15 Detroit Diesel did one regen all last summer and now I can barely get 8 hours...