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I thought you were talking about the threads in the casting (part 010), not the pins themselves.

Permatex Bearing Mount is the stuff I use. Might look into a thread insert for the wallered out holes. You'll have better luck with those versus trying to weld up the cast iron.

I wouldn't want them spinning in their bores. Is there enough of a tight fitment that anything would help? There is a product that I have had good success with call Bearing Mount. Once set up will take quite a bit of abuse and usually requires lots of heat to remove the part.

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Are there any bolts that attach the oil pan to the bell housing/transmission?

I'd be happy that it has lasted this long and just keep on filling it with oil and run it.

Can you get the photo from your camera to your computer? If so, go to www.imgbb.com Upload photo. Tell it not to delete. After it is done uploading, you'll have a pull down menu to select the format that you'd like to attach the photo. Select BBCode Full Linked. Copy the address and paste...

Simple math will tell you why that was going to be a problem. 765 x 2.2 =< 1900

Might just go ahead and remove the wheel/tire and lean it back to insure none of the beet juice is near the valve stem when removing the valve core.

If you read through this thread, it appears there might be another setting that needs changed according to the tire you have installed. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/intellipanel-display-setting.290388/

Found this in an older thread. It was an L3560, but might work.

Try holding the button while turning the key on.

Check your battery voltage while running and report back.

Horrible screen grab from a video, but you can see the switch layout looks just like the one in post #15.

The hand throttle isn't directly connected to the linkage at the engine. Here are a couple pictures. First shows the hand throttle that you'll move while in the seat. The piece circled in red (in both pics) acts upon the piece pointed out with the green arrow. You'll notice in the second...

To remove safely, you should be able to chock the wheels, extend the hoe to an "L" shape, curl the bucket and set it on the ground. As long as the tractor doesn't move, the arm shouldn't go anywhere after the cylinder is removed.

(y) And to answer your previous question, no, I wouldn't add anything on top.

Take a picture of the rear diff cover. If it is round, it is the 35. "D" shaped, it is the 44. Had a '00 TJ with the 5-speed. Loved it, but traded for a '14 JK. The head issue on the TJ's has a 0331 stamp on them. They'd crack on the top side between the 3rd and 4th cylinder valves. You...

I just wish there were more shows this season.

Didn't we have an engine on here a while back with a blown headgasket that was allowing combustion gases into the crankcase, or was that another forum? Either way, I'd pull the head first and take a good look at things. If that much compression was leaking past the rings, I'd expect to see a...