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Put 90s on the female connectors and get them turned either in or out. Easy and cheap. That way the hoses will point down and to the side instead of straight back. I would do it on all of the outlets if it were me. ;)

Give a look here for that side link. ;)

As far as your "OLD" back hoe, things were probably just warn out. Seals bad, rings warn, spool valve warn, a combination of it all. My experience has shown me that the control valve is usually at fault for leak down. So do these cylinders drift down, yes if you have a bad control valve...

Like was mentioned, top and tilt for your 3pt hitch. If you are going to do much grading of any kind, it is the way to go. :cool:

Might try these guys. http://www.agristoreusa.com/ I am pretty sure that they will ship to Canada. ;)

Something that is between 6' & 7' and a minimum of 1000lbs. Hydraulic rippers are always nice also. Something like this. If money is no problem, then you will find that a good rear blade is at times much better than a box blade. These guys can set you up with your "T&T" set. Good luck with...

Here is where you would get your fluid from. You need to get the hydraulic block from Kubota and then everything else can be sourced after market. Probably run you about $800-$1000 for some good parts. ;)

If you know that you are going to go to a 3rd function of some kind in the future, just get some 1/4" lines made up to go from front-back with the QD ends for now. That should be able to be done for about $100. ;)

Hydraulic operated implements, top & tilt cylinders just as an example.

Are you going to use your 3pt hitch? Are you going to have any 3pt implements to do any grading? If the answer is yes to either of those questions, then you might want to get 1,2, or even 3 rear remotes. A lot of people that grade like to have a hydraulic top link. Some even get a hydraulic side...

Have you tried to rebuild the prince valve? Way back when, I too used Prince valves, all 4 leaked straight out of the boxes. :mad: Rebuilt them (new O-rings) fixed the problem for a short time. After doing that a couple of times I went to lip seals, no more problems. Might try that before going...

While it will work, you would have better control with a valve that is rated closer to what your tractor GPM is. Your tractor has a 6.3 GPM implement pump. Better to use a valve rated at a lower GPM. Keep in mind that it is more common for the economical valves to leak internally. What this...

I highly recommend that you get no smaller than a 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod for the angling of your RB2584# And actually a 3 1/2" dia cylinder would be better. No pins on this blade and it's plenty strong. You need to be sure that the mounts at both ends are strong and get the...

Post # 12 of this thread has some pictures of the OEM system. ;)

If you have thousands of trees to remove on 3-5 acres, I would think they can't be all that big. You can buy a Case 580TBL with 7000 hours on it, warn, but not warn out for about $10k. That what most people consider a warn out machine will dig circles around any of the Kubota TLBs. My...

Beet juice is the way to go if it is available in your area. ;) ◾Calcium Chloride is heavy – about 11.5 lbs./gallon. Rim Guard™ weights 10.7-11 lbs. per gallon – about the same. ◾Calcium Chloride is freeze resistant to -30°F or -40°F depending upon how it is mixed. Rim Guard™ is freeze...

While this may amaze you, I am sure that you are not fully aware of everyone's situation-conditions that they have to contend with. Just because you guys don't understand something does not mean that there is not a good reason for it.

When you dig, only go down about a foot at a time, raise partially and clear, then down again, then raise. Do that 3-4 times and you are at full depth. Only adds seconds to the digging time and you never get stuck. ;)

Gearmore has one that is 445lbs. That 150lbs per foot is an ideal weight and normally considered for 6' and wider implements . The smaller width implements just don't need to be built as strong and so that heavier weight per foot is much harder to get to. I think that anything under 5' in width...

With my 1st NEW tractor, I went with a good mid grade 8' rear blade that the dealer recommended. Cost about $1100 nine years ago. What a mistake.:( The blade was as described and would have been fine for a 50hp 5-6000lb tractor. It was not ok for my 75hp 10,000lb tractor which is now...