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A lot of people feel that gear drives don't have a slow enough gear. I think that with some of the older tractors that was-is an issue maybe? :unsure:

Here. https://www.agristoreusa.com/collections/pins

Why would that heat the oil any more than being in neutral? Because he read it on the internet, and as we all know, if it's on the internet, it has to be true. :rolleyes: To answer Three Strands Farm's question, it will not heat up the hydraulic oil any more than if you were not using the...

Most likely. Pat's adds 3 3/4" length to the draft arm pin location. So yes you could probably get connected with the std top link, but there would be little or no extension (tilting back) possabilities.

Look at this video, get the asked-for dimension. That dimension should be your midpoint adjustment. I normally provide a 20 1/4"- 29 1/4" working range for hydraulic top links for your model of tractor.

People talk about using the same hitch for both cat 1 and cat 2 implements. My belief is that they are actually talking about the pin-size bushings required for the actual quick hitches. Otherwise, how would it even be possible to connect to both cat 1 and cat 2 implements that are not set up...

Just checking, and yes Bison is a bit heavier duty than the Land Pride equivalents. :)

I thought that you were running an 8' rear blade? :unsure: I wish that Bison had a cat 1-2 all hydraulic blade available. Back when the LP blades were around $3K and less, I used to recommend them all the time for the cat 1 machines 35-50HP

First off, if your tilt cylinder is allowing the hitch to sag to one side, sag at all really, then the piston seals need to be replaced. With the cylinder-s disconnected, the hydraulics should be rock solid and should not move at all. As far as being a pain to hitch up when your hitch has...

The factory top link comes with a (cat 1) 3/4" tractor end 1 3/4" wide. The implement end has a narrow 1 3/4" wide cat 2 end. (1" pin) (std cat 2 is 2" wide) You need a reducer bushing for the implement end so that you can use both cat 1 and cat 2 implements. And just an FYI, Kubota uses a...

I am relatively certain that the only true cat 1 & cat 2 quick hitches are the Euro hook type ends. These are available for the draft arms as well as the top link ends. The down fall of these is that they are not a single fixed hook-up width and height. The positive thing about them is the same...

The first thing that comes to mind is cleaning out ditches at a roadside. While yes all the blade adjustments can be made manually and hydraulics are not required, having the hydraulic adjustments, just as having top & tilt hydraulics make it so that those adjustments from minor to major...

I have found that a rear blade that when angled at least 35*will cover your tracks is a minimum. A 96" blade for your Grand L is what I recommend. An RB3796 would be a minimum IMO. I highly recommend an RBT3596 with skid shoes for your application. You will find the several hundred lbs more...

It has nothing to do with the plumbing, the ripper bar is either up or down, nothing in between. Now you can adjust the rippers in the ripper bar as far as how deep the rippers go, but this adjustment is manual just like the std box blades. Now this statement is for hydraulic rippers (typically...

Pictures please once you have the tractor back.

I think that I would grind off some of the QH metal so that there is clearance. Or set the 3pt stop so that you can't have the hitch go that low. One or the other. I would do the first option. (y)

Depending on the cylinder diameter and actual fittings that would work best for you, you might want to check with Kens bolt on Hooks. (y)(y) .030 for a 2" dia cylinder .045 for a 2 1/2" cylinder .060 for a 3" dia cylinder

You might want to consider getting a valve or 2 with the float feature. Just an option that sometimes makes sense to have depending on what all they will be used for.

It is common with a 3 valve set for this type of application to use the left control for the left side link, the center control for the top link and the right control for the right side link.

The tilt cylinders would need to be a left and a right because of the ports. I doubt that Summit is going to build the left side for you. I am curious as to whether the Summit cylinder is recommended to be fully retracted to have the implement level side-side. To match factory specs, it would...