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I know they're expensive, but I think you're better to get the Kubota one. Surely there's a bunch of guys who bought them and don't use them often.

It's not just that it's bigger, it's that the L5030 is a grand L, so it has quite a lot of additional features than a standard L has. I personally would rather the older Grand L than the newer standard L. But it all comes down to what you would use it for, and whether it's better for you. I...

It could be a few things: - overheating, if your tractor depowers when it overheats. But if it overheats, you should see that on the temp gauge / get an alarm. Is it overheating? - something fuel related. Obscure, but as @Russell King says, it could be that as your fuel tank gets empty there's...

If it's a great deal and you have plenty of room for it, you could buy it and part fill it. I definitely wouldn't try to fill it with 300 gallons, if it goes wrong that's a lot of fuel wasted. But is it really that great of a deal? How much would a 150 gallon tank cost? Realistically you only...

"Proven". No. At least not to a standard that a physicist would accept as proof. It might meet the evidence standard for some of the social sciences though.... But what we can definitely say is: 1. Fluids are actually different, quite a bit different 2. Kubota fluid isn't materially different...

The L1-382 looks to be a good machine. It's a genuine Kubota, not the Mitsubishi based "Kubota" that someone (you?) posted a week or so ago. 1800cc engine and 38hp is a quite a lot. If you can afford it, it's a lot better than the 15+ yr old machines you've been looking at. And you could get an...

They keep records by e-mail address, and probably not for that long. E-mail addresses are free. If you can be bothered, you can easily get another free sale. Not economic for someone selling tractors for a living to keep making new e-mail accounts, but for the average Joe, quite reasonable.

No loader is always a red flag to me if you actually want a loader. It's false economy to buy a machine without a loader hoping to add one, and a tractor without a loader is severely crippled, you're only getting a fraction of the value you could have. A machine that's been used for forestry...

So, if you pay for it in full then you get the promised price? As I said, in my opinion there's always a way to get a binding agreement if you want to.

It's a mower. Not much is the answer, another answer is as much as you can put on it until it breaks or you can't steer (and probably you won't be able to steer long before it breaks).

The usual advice. Work out what you actually are trying to do, and get a machine for that. An L45 is a great machine, if reasonably maintained and at a reasonable price. But, it's more a jack of all trades. It will move debris and dirt. A bobcat will do that better. It will trench, but if you...

In my country (NZ) if you pay for something and have a signed agreement, they can't change the price. I see people reporting that it happened to them in the USA. I'm dubious that they actually had a signed purchase agreement with a price and a down payment, as even in the USA I don't see how...

Does it have a loader? You don't mention.

The year of a tractor is usually set as the year of sale, not year of manufacture. When I got my B2601 I asked for one new in the crate. I didn't want one that had been sitting, the dealer near me had two on the lot, both with surface rust. I was paying for a new one, not an old one.

Looks like a setup for dual wheels to me - that's what my brother in law's machine looks like and he often runs duals. An HST does lose a little power. But it's way, way more convenient. Most of these small tractors run out of traction way before they run out of power, so you're unlikely to...

If you have a B1402, and you want a bit more, I think the L is the choice. For the mowing - are you looking at a rotary cutter / bush hog? An L will run one of them much better.

I'd normally say a new machine with warranty is good buying for a similar price. But I'd have reservations on that machine. It's not a true Kubota - it has a Mitsubishi motor, and it doesn't look to have much if any parts interchangeability. Kubota will no doubt back it, but it's not going to...

I'd buy 2016 with 850 hours I think. It looks like best buying. That or the 2017 with 350 hours. They all seem fairly priced really (or at least, all priced where they belong given age and hours), so you could go either way. Low hours is nicer.

Surely that is about 6 beers that can't fit in the garage fridge? Seems like a tough compromise.

Usually a MF will be more metal for your money. But they tend to take a pretty optimistic view of some of their specs, in real world use it seems the gap isn't as big as claimed. 2,000lbs is quite a bit though. I would be less convinced on the loader lift. The Kubota will still be going long...