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I use mine for anything it will lift! Just be smart and safe about it, and remember that most FEL's bleed down a bit so never rely on it staying in the air especially with a load on it. Imagination is your only limitation ;) Here is me (on my tractor) helping my neighbor (on the ladder) load a...

Yes, try this^^^^^ Or take two wrenches and loosen the QD till you get a spurt of fluid, wrap a rap over it to catch the fluid.

Do you know the thread size? I have had great luck with Helicoil products: http://www.helicoil.in/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=RFYa6sjhh_E Other swear by the Time-sert brand also: http://www.timesert.com/

Unplug the QD's (quick disconnects), wipe them off/out and re-seat them. 99% of the time this cures the "My FEL won't xxxx" problems.

I have the JD version called the iMatch, wouldn't be without it. Just make sure any implements you buy are compatible and meet the ASAE Category 1 Standard S278.6

Awesome! I love the simple fixes! Plus, if it was bent I was afraid you where going to blame me and my hooks

FYI on the tires, since the front axle pivots a low front one will not really show up, but since there is no pivot or suspension in the rear a low tire will make things appear out of level, especially at the front. I suspect airing up that low tire (and finding out why it was down to 5 psi) will...

RAD makes the front ones for many companies like Kubota and JD, not sure who makes the rear for Kubota but probably Woods or Lucknow

I am not that familiar with that model (or most Kubota's for that matter), but can't he just push the joystick further to the right to get passed the regen part of the valve? Edit: Even a DA cylinder can have the "lockup" symptoms with regen active if there is no mechanical advantage to help it...

Check out this thread, particularly post #3 and #4, I believe the regen function of your valve is causing your issue, although generally that only affects movement one way and not both. A search of the term "regen" will turn up more info here and on other forums as well...

-Do you have a gauge to test pressures? -Try opening one of the other valves and see if you get flow from your new valve. -Does the 3PH and/or FEL still work OK?

It "sounds" like the valves are plumbed in parallel Prather than in series to me. Can you take some pictures, or better yet make a drawing of how you have it plumbed pleas?

Hmm....Bolt-On Grab Hooks, whooda thunk it?;)

Nice job! Having a welder opens up so may possibilities :)

Thanks for the update, I know you don't think so...but I think you got off lucky with a $1500 bill.

Exactly, I agree 100%. You must get weight BEHIND the rear axle to unload the front one. Think of a see-saw at the playground, you want the pivot or "fulcrum" to be the rear, not the front.

While I agree with that statement in general, lubricating linkages is considered "'routine maintenance" so why not just try it?

For a grapple, only 1/4" is really needed since the tiny cylinder(s) need very little flow, it's also a lot cheaper and easier to route. Your install looks great!

Make sure the linkages are well lubricated between the joysticks and the valve body, Fluid Film works great for that. If that doesn't help, do as suggested above and get your dealer involved.

I too remember reading (on TBN) a while ago about some issues with the factory option.