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Gets worse when you're steering? Totally normal.

You're right, it doesn't. But it's pretty close.

Personally I wouldn't like any solvent in the joint. Or all over the tractor. I do like the idea of WD40; that should help with the worst of it while still leaving a protective layer. Oily metal won't rust. Kids old clothes man. Plus mine once they're worn out. I've got a huge plastic bin full...

GTFO They're nuts. I wonder if it's a misprint. Extra 9 maybe?

I have a couple of BG transmission funnels from back in the day that look very similar to that. They're perfect for getting down in tight spots. The only downside is the end is so small it doesn't drain very fast.

FYI That adapter uses pins that have an egg shaped flange on the end with a hole for a bolt to secure the pin, instead of a through pin with a circular clip. So you'll probably need those pins also. This is for the 2 outer pins. The pin for the hydraulic piston in the center has a through hole...

I just wipe the heavy stuff that's going to fall. I like having a thick layer at the openings of the joint, helps to keep water/dirt as far away from the friction points as possible.

That does look nice! Does the BX have the flow for this? Only info I saw was "up to" 30 gpm. People say the BX doesn't have enough flow to run the SA10 post hole auger, which it does. That seems like it would require a lot more flow though?

Older snowblowers tended to not have air filters. Newer ones tend to. The old Ariens run forever snow blowers were actually a "tractor" with different attachments; snow blower, lawn mower, ect. They had an air filter for the "summer" attachments, and you'd remove the air filter and put a hot box...

Pretty sure the threads are there for the nut on the other side......

You're worried about the threads after you just drilled the head off? Drilling several small holes along the threads of the bolt will help to drive it out. :)

Countersunk allen bolts are the easiest ones to drill. You already have a pilot hole to start from; use a bit the same size or slightly larger than the shaft, and you only need to drill enough to cut the flared part of the head off...... Minimal amount of drilling needed. Then drive the bolt...

I have the Land Pride SSQA forks on mine (BX23S). I got them because I can mount my post hole auger to the frame (made it a little cheaper to buy) plus I got a little $$ off and rolled it into the financing of the tractor. To me the SSQA is worth it 95% of the time. But I've ran into occasions...

If you do break it you should be able to replace just the plastic connector. If Kubota doesn't sell them separate that looks just like the coolant temp sensor on a bunch of Japanese cars.

Sometimes GENTLY squeezing with a pair of slip joint pliers helps. Once you get it off a little dielectric grease will help for next time.

You can usually buy just the metal pin that goes into the connector and crimp it onto the wire. No need for splices (other than extending in your case I guess). And with temp sensors it doesn't matter which wire is power and which is ground. The internal resistor works both ways. FWIW I had a...

Drain plugs are on both front knuckles. It took me a minute to find them. I crawled underneath first and checked all over the bottom and rear of the axle. Finally crawled out and found them on the front. Drain plugs are 14mm. They have the same type of seal as the oil pan, albeit a little...

I finally got around to draining the front axle. It didn't look bad, just dark. I figured since I had it empty I might as well just put new fluid in. I thought about using gear oil; I only had 3 qts on hand, while I had the gallon of SUDT. So I went with the SUDT. The irritating thing is, when...

I did some searching and I didn't have any luck finding cylinders that fit. The factory BX cylinders seem to be very short. I couldn't find ones short enough to match the compressed length. Even for factory diameter. I didn't do an exhaustive search; I definitely could have missed something...