Search results

I remove that bolt, it has to come out a good ways anyway. If you have a helper, it makes it a lot easier. Also it's wise to remove (completely) the lift strut. Drop the hood about halfway, pull up on the rear and forward, with your helper, and it comes right off.

Remove loader if it has one. Remove the dash cluster. remove the plastic parts that surround the steering. Remove hood and side skirts. remove battery and radiator. remove front axle assembly. remove all sorts of lines, hoses, fuel tank, and tubes. remove engine from frame. It's not too bad...

Deka supplies the "factory" batteries. Battery life is subjective. 4 years isn't bad given the climate and operational characteristics. Remember..batteries self-discharge when not in use. The smaller the battery the faster they self discharge. Where the battery is mounted plays a part...

Does it have a loader? If so, add about 2 hours. Typically to R&R a rear crankshaft seal, you're looking in the neighborhood of 6-8 hours give or take. I did one about 3 months ago; took me 6 1/2 hours start to finish (not counting paper and phone work), including removal of the loader. But...

Re: Broken carter keys I call those "Jesus clips". When you don't get them on all the way, they fly off and then you say "oh sweet Jesus, where'd that go". Seriously, though, you could have several issues going on. I like to see spacers between the lower 3 point arms and the implement...

Oh and it's always a good idea to read the entire warranty statement that comes with every new Kubota. There's information in there that most people don't know about. 2 that come to mind are the time frame that you have to get your tractor to the dealer and then the transportation to/from the...

That and the inconvenience of having to haul it to/from the dealer. And the time it takes for them to do the repair and/or order parts. And the worst, "sir, your repair isn't covered under warranty and your bill is $1,000". Always ask if your repair is covered before you make a run to the...

I ordered a new pivot, needle bearing, 2 circlips and ball bearing. The sleeve is the axle pivot. It bolts in from the front side. The front pto shaft goes through the middle of the sleeve. I welded a big nut to the end of the sleeve and put my 1" drive breakover on it. Won't budge. The...

yeah I pumped some PB into the fitting. And I keep it greased, ever since I bought it, I usually hit all the fittings a couple times a mowing season. It just became stuck over this winter, which I find to be odd since it's been fine for as long as I've had it. In fact when I bought it, I...

Don't really have a good way to get in there for a picture as of right now, but if you'll have a look at the diagram (G07500), you'll see the sleeve. The sleeve has the pto shaft that runs through the center of it-which I have removed already. But the sleeve runs through the axle (G09800)...

I've got this old G1900 Kubota that I've had for a number of years now. Love the mower. I keep it maintained religiously-including greasing ALL of the fittings (even the one on the front axle pivot and the drive shaft and brake pedal). Got it in the shop today for it's winter maintenance...

call your dealer and ask them to reference PSB-2015-052. This bulletin gives some guidance to that particular issue, and it may or may not apply to your particular serial number.

Check the suction pipe on the back of the hydraulic pump. It may be cracked causing air to enter, which will cause exactly what you're describing. It's on the right side of the transmission, kinda to the left of the brake pedals. About 1 1/8" outside diameter; it connects the steel pipe to...

The original glow controller was imperfect. It was superceded years ago to a newer part number. To my knowledge, the new part number has not had a single failure. Worth looking into. Why hack up an expensive tractor with a toggle or push button switch when a cheap ($70) controller will fix...

If you do a lot of low speed operation, it's considered normal. The engine is basically a lawn mower engine. In other words, it was originally designed to run 3600 RPM continually with a load against it most of the time. In the RTV application, it idles most of it's life. The downside is...

Unscrew old filter. Screw new filter on. :D

What's causing the metal to be bent OUTWARD? I'm curious. The cylinder is inline with the frame, so there is mostly forces in that direction (fore and aft). What is causing them to be forced sideways? I know someone who might could use this information, and I'll forward the issue. I guess...

When the fuel tank's full, they won't rust. The new ones are the same part as far as I can remember. So they'll rust too if left in the same conditions. Ideal conditions for rust to form on the sending unit are sit for a while without being used (no fuel splash on the sending unit)-which...

No, you can't see a thing from the top, other than part of the shaft. If the lever is going all the way "in", and "out", then the problem is likely the PTO clutch halves being worn. The edges of the "clutch" are supposed to be sort of sharp edged, which helps the two halves stay engaged with...

You don't have to treat the tractor any differently when changing the trans fluid if it has a loader. Just drain, then refill. You can't get it all out of the loader cylinders unless you remove their hoses and run the ram in and out manually. Makes a big mess if you do it that way, and is a...