Search results

probably compressor failing. When they fail, they dump metal dust through the entire system. At the very least, it's gonna need a GOOD flushing of every single component. Possibly replacement of the components. Reason being, if you just let it go-with "black death" still in the system, that...

not always. Depends on the design of the regulator and most Kubota's that use external regulators, do not require a case ground. Every single one of them I've dealt with will function (charge) the same whether it's bolted down or just laying there. Similarly Yamaha, Kawasaki, and a bunch of...

if you're handy with 12v electrical systems, you can probably repair the harness. If you have any question in your ability, it may be wise to just replace the harness, OR pay someone else to fix it. running a new 12v wire wouldn't be impossible, but you gotta find the "split" where the system...

Used to do a bunch of them, slow to shut down. Usually an issue with the stop solenoid, won't pull completely in to fully shut the fuel off. With engine OFF, turn the key ON (but do not start the engine) and then turn the key back off. Now grab the shutoff lever and push it towards the...

I suspect it's the forward clutch pack having an issue-but the control system for the packs can also cause the same end result. Thus, a good thorough check of the entire system is in order. Hopefully it's simple and inexpensive.

on the front bottom side of each transmission is a lever. If you move the levers, they will allow one to manually push/tow the equipment, such as if the battery went dead or if you had to pull it out of a ditch. If one of those levers is turned "off", that transmission is effectively in...

the bearings are 6206-zz they're available elsewhere, but generally speaking kubota is less expensive than most everywhere else (unless you buy them in bulk). You can also use 6206-2RS which is two rubber seals rather than metal shielded. The shielded bearings do a little better with high...

y'all are reminding me that my old 7.3, although slow as christmas, noisy, smoky, and outdated-cannot be replaced. 254,000 miles and counting but I don't drive it much anymore. I gotta put brakes and injectors in it at some point.

thanks for correcting me. I still have a certain L4330 on the brain...leaking charge pump into the bellhousing

real hard to say without seeing it in person but a surge is almost always a lean condition. in 99% of those cases when I did them, it was almost always a carburetor issue-plugged jet, sticking shutoff solenoid, or restricted supply line. Rare to find an intake leaking on a Kohler although...

looks fine to me there is no tension "adjustment" anyway-it's self adjusting via spring.

a failing hydraulic pump will fill the crankcase with hydraulic fluid. I'd think that if the charge pump in the bellhousing were leaking, it'd fill the bellhousing but unless the rear main seal on the engine were leaking, hyd oil couldn't get into the crankcase from there--at least I don't see...

that 7.4 hour labor figure is book time. Dealers are not required to use that unless it's warranty, so it's possible that the quoting dealer added labor to that figure? (They'd have to add a LOT of labor to come up with 9600). And/or I wonder if they're quoted an entire transmission assembly...

yes compression test first. If low, check valve clearance. If that's ok, move onto why it's low. Bent rod(s) worn cylinder, holed piston, etc. overheating is the #1 cause of low compression, so keep that in mind. Look at the radiator and make sure it's clean externally (Mowers often...

don't mess with the governor find the reason the engine is running lean and repair it. Could be vacuum leak, plugged jet, sticking shutoff solenoid, restricted fuel supply line/valve/pickup, etc. address the supply side first as that is the most common issue. Second most common is old fuel...

have you tried to get a second opinion from a different dealer? It might be worth a shot. In years past when I did kubota work, in cases like that I'd send it off to Kubota and let them make the decision. The process works, but the dealer has to WANT to take care of you. For a long, long...

the "trigger" wire tells the regulator to turn on. Additionally it is also a sensing wire, so if the reg/rec sees the trigger wire voltage below the, let's say 13.5v maximum allowed, the regulator will increase the voltage until it sees that maximum. It will usually climb over that a little...

how do you think we got the ones that they already own? Do I go steal or make a new computer to run the software that I also have to beg, borrow or steal? No, I buy it (or more specifically, I purchased it-same computer I'm using right now). It didn't just fall out of the laptop tree...

going off of memory... remove the 4 bolts and pull the shaft assembly out. Drain the oil first. Up inside the transmission is a collar, that may or may not fall off. If it does, you have to fish it out and put it back on which can be "interesting".

hand tools and drivers, that kind of stuff...yes. electronic diagnosis tools, dealer only. Believe me, I've tried. And still am-on this Kawasaki. There is no other way because in order to properly do this job that I'm doing you need to see what the ECU is seeing-NOT what the DVOM says...