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I do believe mine is direct drive based on pictures I took the other day and comparing to the parts book. DB has a gear reduction starter for $107.33 with free shipping, going to order one and I hope it will fit.

I looked at DB and all they showed was a dynamo for my machine.

My problem is definitely not in the wiring circuit. With the start wire disconnected, I can hold the key in the start position all day long. Connect the wire back up and it blows the fuse immediately. I completely rewired this machine over last winter including doing away with the "confusion"...

I finally made it back to where the machine is located this morning. I touched the starter drive gear as it was semi engaged into the flywheel teeth. It slid back into disengaged position. The starter turns freely with the pry bar. I turned the engine with the pry bar and it turned free like...

I'm glad you found your problem without replacing a bunch more parts that you don't really need.

I still haven't made it back to where the machine is located to do some more testing. But thanks for the responses so far.

Got a bit of a weird one here. I was mowing for about an hour or so a couple of weeks ago. Suddenly my rpm's went down and I was able to creep it back to a pole barn before it died. It puffed black smoke for about 1 second on the way. Anyway, I thought my problem might be the electric fuel...

Green Slime is never the correct solution.

According to what I found, that should be a 25 HP Kohler CV742. Did you check anything or just throw your hands up? I know it is cutting season, but you need to check some things first. Air filter, carburetor, fuel filter, spark plugs, etc., etc., etc.

You probably should remove it from the machine and do a complete disassembly. Inspect all components and identify what is missing. Messick's has a breakdown of the gear box and has many items you probably need in stock. Then you can put it back together and do the shimming then. Since it is ball...

I am in for answers myself, having a similar problem on a B7500. Loader works, but the hitch quit working during a project.

Have you checked the oil level in the transmission reservoir?

Those valves and seats need professional attention. I would load all the valve components and head and take it to a machine shop. They can check the flatness of the head for you too.

You need to get some of those plastic totes with lids or something to keep all of your parts in. If not, you will spend half your time looking for them.

See RED comments above. Drain the oil and look for contamination or foreign matter. Pressure test the cooling system. Do a compression test. Run the engine and look for unusual smoke, knocks, rattles, etc. and go from there. But if you really want to be sure, do a complete teardown and...

That journal looks very bad to me. I don't recall seeing the bearings from that rod in the pics. Why not remove another rod cap and look at the bearing and the journal so you have something to compare it to? The debris in the oil pan is a good indication that engine has to come out and be...

That's great!

I looked in my shop manual and it wasn't much help. They don't have a circuit schematic that I have found. Looking at the exploded view, I can't tell what plug the oil is coming out of that you are talking about. Long shot - have you changed the oil recently and used a product that is too thin...

My front link crossbar is worn probably about 3/16" where it attaches to the mower. That explains why I had to raise the front wheels to the next position. Next time I bring it home, I will get the tolerances tightened up on the front link. This mower has been a long project just to bring it...

I took it to the farm this morning and picked up the landowner's old Exmark for service and repair. My better half mowed about three acres with the G1800 and has no complaints. That's a win in my book.