Right implement(s) for leveling humps

[RedSanders]

We just moved into a new home with 8+ acres. Our zero turn mower was great where we lived before, but given the size of our yard, and its bumps and humps, and no shock suspension on the mower, we were taking a beating. So, we just purchased our first tractor, a B3300SU with FEL and a Land Pride 72" mower. Also purchased a King Kutter 5' tiller for starting a garden.

Being a tractor newbie, I am unsure as to how best to go about smoothing both the big and little humps. I searched the forums here, and probably missed this type of question being answered before...so here goes:

Regarding the bigger humps (maybe 1 - 3 ft. elevation, 15' to 30' in diameter - see pics) - should we whittle away with the tiller and move loose dirt with FEL? Or should we buy a box blade and use it to bite deeper into the humps? Or, is this just too much of a task for the tractor and we should rent or contract bigger equipment?

Also need advice as to how to approach the small dips and bumps in the yard.

Our soil here in south Louisiana is sandy loam and no rocks. Beyond 18" we start getting into clay.

 

[gpreuss]

If it is sandy loam you might just use the FEL to move it. Since you will need rear ballast anyway, hook on the tiller. It'll help, and add to the fun. Lots of folks here have box blades and love them. I have a rear blade and love it. There are advantages to each; I'm not sure there are that many here that have both, to give you a comparison. For smaller clumps, you might try a chain or spike harrow.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

A heavy box blade gets my vote!

 

[Burt]

We just moved into a new home with 8+ acres. Our zero turn mower was great where we lived before, but given the size of our yard, and its bumps and humps, and no shock suspension on the mower, we were taking a beating. So, we just purchased our first tractor, a B3300SU with FEL and a Land Pride 72" mower. Also purchased a King Kutter 5' tiller for starting a garden.

Being a tractor newbie, I am unsure as to how best to go about smoothing both the big and little humps. I searched the forums here, and probably missed this type of question being answered before...so here goes:

Regarding the bigger humps (maybe 1 - 3 ft. elevation, 15' to 30' in diameter - see pics) - should we whittle away with the tiller and move loose dirt with FEL? Or should we buy a box blade and use it to bite deeper into the humps? Or, is this just too much of a task for the tractor and we should rent or contract bigger equipment?

Also need advice as to how to approach the small dips and bumps in the yard.

Our soil here in south Louisiana is sandy loam and no rocks. Beyond 18" we start getting into clay.

Red:

I totally agree with Eric. A heavy box blade will make short work of those! We have leveled many of those here and we do have rocks! We have a box blade and a rear blade. Each has their best purpose but for leveling ground, nothing can beat a box blade unless it's a land plane.

 

[RedSanders]

Ok, thanks fellows. I guess I could try with the FEL, but given my lack of experience, I would probably be struggling to get the job done. And I was thinking I might need a box blade, but didn't want to get another implement that I wouldn't continue to use as I will the FEL, mower and tiller. But, if that's what it takes...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Do you have a driveway that needs maintaining? If you do, than a land plane grader blade would be your best bet. It will work GREAT for taking care of humps and such and then you could use it on a regular basis to maintain your drive.

Just a thought.

 

[Bulldog]

A heavy box blade gets my vote!

Agreed, a good heavy boxscrape is hard to beat.

 

[RedSanders]

Well, my ignorance on display - is there a difference between a box blade and a boxscrape? Both terms are in this discussion. I Googled to see what I could find before posting this question here - and the results didn't clarify for me. Some threads discuss them as being different implements, and some sites, such as everythingattachments.com, uses the two names interchangeably to describe their products.

And in reference to the question about our drive, no need for that - it is asphalt. So, our focus is on the humps and bumps, big and small, scattered throughout the property.

Thanks again!

 

[Bulldog]

It's the same implement. Boxscrape would be the correct term.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Yeah same thing, everybody has a different name for them. Box blade, box scape, I call mine a grading box.

But without a doubt its the way to go for your needs. The scarifier teeth will rip up the hard soil alot better and faster then a tiller will.

 

[bandaidmd]

We just moved into a new home with 8+ acres. Our zero turn mower was great where we lived before, but given the size of our yard, and its bumps and humps, and no shock suspension on the mower, we were taking a beating. So, we just purchased our first tractor, a B3300SU with FEL and a Land Pride 72" mower. Also purchased a King Kutter 5' tiller for starting a garden.

Being a tractor newbie, I am unsure as to how best to go about smoothing both the big and little humps. I searched the forums here, and probably missed this type of question being answered before...so here goes:

Regarding the bigger humps (maybe 1 - 3 ft. elevation, 15' to 30' in diameter - see pics) - should we whittle away with the tiller and move loose dirt with FEL? Or should we buy a box blade and use it to bite deeper into the humps? Or, is this just too much of a task for the tractor and we should rent or contract bigger equipment?

Also need advice as to how to approach the small dips and bumps in the yard.

Our soil here in south Louisiana is sandy loam and no rocks. Beyond 18" we start getting into clay.

Your right on target with using the tiller first, thats what I do to keep from having clumps of sod interfering with my grading.
On of the other things a box blade is called is a landscape box ... gee wonder where it got that name... maybe its because its perfectly suited for landscape work. lol
All joking aside a rear blade of some sort is a worthwhile investment for a tractor and the box style is the most versatile especially for the work your looking to do.
If you don't want to invest in one maybe there's a rental place nearby ?

 

[skeets]

Red give your dealer a call,, most dealers have things they will rent out for your tractor so over a weekend you can play with one and see if it works for you. Then save your money and look for one. But by then you might have it all cleaned up,,,lol

 

[MtnViewRanch]

While I still think that a LPGB would work the best for you, once you were done it wouldn't do you much good where as a box blade pretty much always has some use for one thing or another.

 

[number9]

While I still think that a LPGB would work the best for you, once you were done it wouldn't do you much good where as a box blade pretty much always has some use for one thing or another.

I'm new to tractoring, but while it seems that a Box Blade is certainly more popular or widely used than a Land Plane, EVERY single thing I've read to date from an owner of a Land Plane has nothing but praise for it doing the job it's intended to do. The videos on everythingattachments of them working one is impressive. I can see myself owning one someday down the road for sure.

...

 

[Burt]

We just moved into a new home with 8+ acres. Our zero turn mower was great where we lived before, but given the size of our yard, and its bumps and humps, and no shock suspension on the mower, we were taking a beating. So, we just purchased our first tractor, a B3300SU with FEL and a Land Pride 72" mower. Also purchased a King Kutter 5' tiller for starting a garden.

Being a tractor newbie, I am unsure as to how best to go about smoothing both the big and little humps. I searched the forums here, and probably missed this type of question being answered before...so here goes:

Regarding the bigger humps (maybe 1 - 3 ft. elevation, 15' to 30' in diameter - see pics) - should we whittle away with the tiller and move loose dirt with FEL? Or should we buy a box blade and use it to bite deeper into the humps? Or, is this just too much of a task for the tractor and we should rent or contract bigger equipment?

Also need advice as to how to approach the small dips and bumps in the yard.

Our soil here in south Louisiana is sandy loam and no rocks. Beyond 18" we start getting into clay.

Red:

One more thing. If you decide to use your FEL for leveling, look in your manual and find out how to "float the bucket." That is, letting it down and releasing it from the hydraulic pressures. Then back up your tractor with the bucket down and released for smoothing either dirt or gravel.

You'll get onto it once you've done it.

Burt

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm new to tractoring, but while it seems that a Box Blade is certainly more popular or widely used than a Land Plane, EVERY single thing I've read to date from an owner of a Land Plane has nothing but praise for it doing the job it's intended to do. The videos on everythingattachments of them working one is impressive. I can see myself owning one someday down the road for sure.

...

This is true, from economy units to extremely expensive units, they all work good, some better than others, but ALL of them seem to work pretty good.

 

[RedSanders]

Again, thanks a bunch for suggestions, clarifications, and even techniques like releasing bucket to do smoothing. Didn't know that could be done.

Given our relatively large lot, we will probably want to level selected areas at a time giving my son-in-law and me time to practice on smaller areas, and to not turn all of the yard into a mud pit, which can easily happen here in south Louisiana. Love forums like this - so nice to tap into wisdom and experience of others.

As an aside, I'm 70 and as mentioned a tractor newbie. I try to learn something new every day, and you folks and our tractor are moving that objective right along.

 

[rednecklimo85]

Let me first say that I've never used a land plane. From the looks of it how ever, it doesn't look like a land plane would do well on that large of area, to me they don't look like they would dig like a box blade would. Again I've only run a box blade, so don't flame too much

If you curl your FEL bucket all the way open, put a little down pressure on the bucket and back the tractor up, it will work much like a rear blade and would make short work of those hills. As long as it's not hard pan, if it is, run the tiller and then back drag again.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Let me first say that I've never used a land plane. From the looks of it how ever, it doesn't look like a land plane would do well on that large of area, to me they don't look like they would dig like a box blade would. Again I've only run a box blade, so don't flame too much

If you curl your FEL bucket all the way open, put a little down pressure on the bucket and back the tractor up, it will work much like a rear blade and would make short work of those hills. As long as it's not hard pan, if it is, run the tiller and then back drag again.

Just as a box blade would work, a LPGB with rippers would be just that much better. they do work in open fields quite well.

As far as using the bucket as a rear blade cutting, if you look in your owners manual, you should find that it is recommended to never back drag with the bucket at more than 15-20 degrees. In other words, no cutting, only smoothing.

I have found that it actually works best to back drag with the bucket flat on the ground.

YMMV.

 

[rednecklimo85]

Just as a box blade would work, a LPGB with rippers would be just that much better. they do work in open fields quite well.

As far as using the bucket as a rear blade cutting, if you look in your owners manual, you should find that it is recommended to never back drag with the bucket at more than 15-20 degrees. In other words, no cutting, only smoothing.

I have found that it actually works best to back drag with the bucket flat on the ground.

YMMV.

Good to know on the land plane, thanks

I cut with the bucket a lot like that, must be worried about damage to the cylinders, It's never caused a problem on mine tho. There's a lot of things that the manual doesn't suggest doing, safety related I certainly understand. Some of it is covering there butt on warranty IMHO.