So I Ordered Augers From Everything Attachments

Soopitup

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On one of the augers the collar is slightly too long, maybe due to the weld. So the auger won't slide far enough up the shaft of the driver to attach the shear bolts.
The holes won't line up.
And they sent me the wrong size replacement shear bolts.

Looks like I have some grinding to do....
 

GeoHorn

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How long-ago did you “order” the auger… and how recently have they ”responded” to your inquiry..??
 

ferguson

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How long-ago did you “order” the auger… and how recently have they ”responded” to your inquiry..??
I would drill new holes 180% from old & weld up old holes. [ the slop the better] my 2 cents
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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How long-ago did you “order” the auger… and how recently have they ”responded” to your inquiry..??
He's already got them, and now needs to rework them at his time and expense because EA's "Return policy / warranty" went the way of the dodo!
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I would drill new holes 180% from old & weld up old holes. [ the slop the better] my 2 cents
On one of the augers the collar is slightly too long, maybe due to the weld. So the auger won't slide far enough up the shaft of the driver to attach the shear bolts.
The holes won't line up.
And they sent me the wrong size replacement shear bolts.

Looks like I have some grinding to do....
Agree with Ferguson just drill a new seat of holes.
But you won't get 180° if it's a hex drive :unsure:
You will need to do 120° 😁
 

mcmxi

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Wow! Drilling and welding seems like more work than necessary. I'd grind or cut the excess off the end. The op mentions "on one of the augers" so that means one is good to go so he has something to measure and replicate.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Wow! Drilling and welding seems like more work than necessary. I'd grind or cut the excess off the end. The op mentions "on one of the augers" so that means one is good to go so he has something to measure and replicate.
You might be right if it's only off a little bit to make it work.
I personally don't like altering any part of the drive portion of anything, I would rather alter the driven (removable) portion.
 
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mcmxi

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You might be right if it's only off a little bit to make it work.
I personally don't like altering any part of the drive portion of anything, I would rather alter the driven (removable) portion.
The collar is on the auger so he'd cut/grind the auger and not the output shaft of the motor. I have a Land Pride HD25 PHD and this is one of the augers.

auger.jpg
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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The collar is on the auger so he'd cut/grind the auger and not the output shaft of the motor. I have a Land Pride HD25 PHD and this is one of the augers.

View attachment 123987
Your right I was reading it wrong.
My thinking was backwards as I thought it was the driven shaft was hitting the bottom before the shear pin hole would line up.
Hitting the top of the collar is an easy wack off of the top of the collar!
 
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Soopitup

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You can see the mismatch in the first 2 pictures.
It wasn't quite as bad as it looks, there's a small amount of slop in the fitment, and the weight of the auger pulls it down and "off".

Ground a little off the top and a small bevel and it's all set.
 

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Soopitup

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I ran the driver (Land Pride SA10) early this winter with the 6 inch auger but didn't get a chance to test the 12 inch. Ran like a champ!
Land Pride says it can only handle up to a 12 inch auger, I'm tempted to try larger.

The only real difficulty is drilling straight. Because the loader travels down on a curve it wants to pull the auger off perfectly vertical as it goes down.
 

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Soopitup

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Sure must be nice to have rock free dirt. :cautious:
Right?!

It only looks that way. We've had a LOT of rain lately. The ground is soaked.
I haven't found many large rocks, but lots of smaller ones (fist size down), and sand/gravel/clay.
The picture where the auger is full of dirt, and the 2 of the tractor; to dig there by hand you need a pickaxe normally. There's probably a foot of loosened soil on top at this point (I loosened and dug/sorted a mess of root thatch by hand, that's what's left of the spoil pile.). It's a mess I've been slowly dealing with for years.
It may even be old driveway underlayment. Directly to the right of the hole I dug is a sheet of old pavement 6 or so inches down. Runs over 100 feet as far as I can tell. It's one of the jobs I got the BX for.

The 3 hole spot I don't know as much about. I tore out a dogwood stump from there yesterday, I figured it would be a good spot to start testing the larger auger.

This winter I ran the 6 inch auger about 10 feet from a spreading Norway Maple, it had no problem burying itself.
I've got other parts of the yard that are rougher, I'll get a chance to test it there eventually.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Sure must be nice to have rock free dirt. :cautious:
Come dig on my place, I've been 16 foot down and pure sand!

Couldn't have sculpted my foundation like this if it wasn't.

1710135986509.jpeg
 
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mcmxi

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Come dig on my place, I've been 16 foot down and pure sand!

Couldn't have sculpted my foundation like this if it wasn't.

View attachment 124026
Now that's just showing off! :LOL: I would love to have ground like that to dig in. In my world a boulder every couple of feet is the norm with every sized rock imaginable in between the boulders.

A neighbor is a contractor and a couple of years ago added another really nice 40'x40' shop on his property. They found boulders the size of Volkswagens so decided the move the entire shop by about 10 ft to the West to avoid blasting.

bx25d_rocks.jpg


bx25d_rocks_2.jpg
 

DustyRusty

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a local contractor takes all the rocks to a yard that he owns, and when the pile gets large enough, he brings in a rock crusher and makes his own 3/4" and up stone for his local jobs. He always has a large pile of stone dust also.