BX 23 Front Drive Shaft

[Edgemoore]

The pin used to connect the front drive shaft sheered. I couldn't punch the remains stuck in the hole of the shaft so decided to remove/replace the drive shaft (K2581-14312). Unfortunately, it won't come out even though the snap ring is removed. I don't want to pry it out unless that's what's needed. Any insight is appreciated...thx

 

[GeoHorn]

Have you tried drilling-out the pin and hole?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

My BX23S sheared the same pin ( assume it's the same as BX2380 ??) This was the front axle u-joint end...
Used a 1/4-20 bolt as a 'drift and 4-5 whacks later the remains were removed. Did NOT have to remove the shaft to do this. Actually used bolt and nut until dealer reopened after a long weekend...
I'm baffled as to WHY you bought another driveshaft. Maybe pictures will explain ?

I looked up bot BX2380 and BX23S and the front drive shaft is K258116832 so wondering where the k25811412 number came from ?

 

[Edgemoore]

Have you tried drilling-out the pin and hole?

Yes and this is when it gets strange. the material was so hard it ate up a couple of bits. Before attempting to drill it out, I tried to punch it out. That ended up only bending the punch.

I'm now working on removing the shaft from the coupling at the transmission. Unfortunately, I can't get it uncoupled...frustrating!

 

[Coreymacc]

By the picture you need to remove the snap ring slide the ball bearing cover back and use a magnet to pull the 4 ball bearings out from the collet to release the shaft at the trans end. If the end of the shaft isn't too roughed up it should slide free. Maybe a slide hammer to help it along if needed.

Hope that helps
Corey

 

[Edgemoore]

My BX23S sheared the same pin ( assume it's the same as BX2380 ??) This was the front axle u-joint end...
Used a 1/4-20 bolt as a 'drift and 4-5 whacks later the remains were removed. Did NOT have to remove the shaft to do this. Actually used bolt and nut until dealer reopened after a long weekend...
I'm baffled as to WHY you bought another driveshaft. Maybe pictures will explain ?

I looked up bot BX2380 and BX23S and the front drive shaft is K258116832 so wondering where the k25811412 number came from ?

I was expecting the same...easy knockout, insert a new pin, and back to work...I was shocked when it didn't go as expected!

 

[Edgemoore]

By the picture you need to remove the snap ring slide the ball bearing cover back and use a magnet to pull the 4 ball bearings out from the collet to release the shaft at the trans end. If the end of the shaft isn't too roughed up it should slide free. Maybe a slide hammer to help it along if needed.

Hope that helps
Corey

thanks Corey. Nice to know I'm on the right track. unfortunately, it's not sliding out. what is a slide hammer?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yuck.... Murphy must be close by !

I broke the pin at the front diff, not the other end. I left the ujoint on the shaft, helped keep the 'drift' bolt at right angles to the shaft.
Did you try BOTH ways to punch it out ?? While it 'shouldn't ' matter...... that Murphy guy might still be hanging around...?

 

[Coreymacc]

thanks Corey. Nice to know I'm on the right track. unfortunately, it's not sliding out. what is a slide hammer?

A slide hammer is a tool that has a rod and weight on it, you can attach the rod to your driveshaft and then slide the weight back and forth to create an axial force to help pull the shaft from the collar. If you google it you will get a way better explanation than mine. You can rent slide hammers i think. May help more than prying the shaft out.

Corey

 

[Edgemoore]

yuck.... Murphy must be close by !

I broke the pin at the front diff, not the other end. I left the ujoint on the shaft, helped keep the 'drift' bolt at right angles to the shaft.
Did you try BOTH ways to punch it out ?? While it 'shouldn't ' matter...... that Murphy guy might still be hanging around...?

Yea, tried to hammer that bugger out from both directions--but no joy

 

[Edgemoore]

A slide hammer is a tool that has a rod and weight on it, you can attach the rod to your driveshaft and then slide the weight back and forth to create an axial force to help pull the shaft from the collar. If you google it you will get a way better explanation than mine. You can rent slide hammers i think. May help more than prying the shaft out.

Corey

thanks...I get the idea, but will google it as well...I'll go spray some WD-40. Maybe that will loosen some things up!

 

[Edgemoore]

thanks...I get the idea, but will google it as well...I'll go spray some WD-40. Maybe that will loosen some things up!

There's no room to fit the slide hammer. Hopefully, a pry bar and the WD-40 will work.

 

[Coreymacc]

Here is a dumb question, is that pin tapered? I have a BX and its just a straight pin, would this one be tapered? Have you tried punching it out from both directions?

Corey

 

[Edgemoore]

Here is a dumb question, is that pin tapered? I have a BX and its just a straight pin, would this one be tapered? Have you tried punching it out from both directions?

Corey

The new pin is not tapered. Like the way yours is described, it is a straight pin with a flat end on one side and a hole for a cotter pin on the other. Yea, I tried punching it out from both directions. I don't even see any gaps between the side of the hole and what's left of the pin. Almost like it fused together. did you see the pic? I haven't tried to see if the WD-40 loosened up the connection near the transmission, but if it comes out, I'll simply buy a new shaft.

 

[Coreymacc]

The new pin is not tapered. Like the way yours is described, it is a straight pin with a flat end on one side and a hole for a cotter pin on the other. Yea, I tried punching it out from both directions. I don't even see any gaps between the side of the hole and what's left of the pin. Almost like it fused together. did you see the pic? I haven't tried to see if the WD-40 loosened up the connection near the transmission, but if it comes out, I'll simply buy a new shaft.

Ya, sounds like when the pin sheared it probably bent itself inside the hole, so its wedged in there good. If there was enough torque to shear the pin at the front diff, it probably started to gall the connection at the transmission so its tight also.

Corey

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Providing you can put into 4wd to lock the driveshaft, should be able to use 1/8", 3/16 then 1/4" drill bits to remove it. Looks like a good centered 'dimple' to keep 1/8" bit centered.
I know PITA location...

 

[kubotasam]

Try drilling through the pin with a carbide tipped masonry bit. I have used this trick when a drill bit has snapped while drilling to use an easy out.

 

[Edgemoore]

Providing you can put into 4wd to lock the driveshaft, should be able to use 1/8", 3/16 then 1/4" drill bits to remove it. Looks like a good centered 'dimple' to keep 1/8" bit centered.
I know PITA location...

yea, a real PITA! I thought the same, but it's super hard. Drilling barely scratches the surface. I'll have to try a masonry bit to see if that works.

 

[Edgemoore]

Try drilling through the pin with a carbide tipped masonry bit. I have used this trick when a drill bit has snapped while drilling to use an easy out.

Thanks for the tip...I'll try it when I can get the time!

 

[xrocketengineer]

Something I have used on my classic Mini Cooper when trying to drill in a difficult place was to use a 1/16" drill bit on a Dremel with the 90 degree adapter. The speed of the Dremel will make a quick starting hole with a good drill bit.