L3400D died in the woods.

[Kubie L3400D]

Kubie died in the field.
History:
A few weeks back, no start, check oil level, low (about a quart), put oil in and it started.
Next start attempt, no click, no turn over no start. Shorted starter solenoid and he fired right up.
Noticed the oil light on the dash does not come on when the key is turned on.
Been jumping starter solenoid and it's been running fine, I just left it running when out working.
Today, it started by jumping solenoid, worked it a couple of hours, and then it died while idling, and wouldn't restart even jumping solenoid. It turns over just fine, but won't start.
I checked fuses, and the one labeled "Panel" (cluster?), a 10 amp was blown. Installed a spare and it blew too as soon as I turned the key.
Installed a new ignition switch relay, same result.

Can't seem to find much on i-net relating to that "Panel" fuse.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

Also, "Panel" fuse is hot on one side with key on and grounded on the other side.

 

[woodman55]

There is a dead short to ground somewhere, Probably a pinched, chafed or crushed wire. A wiring schematic would be a great thing to have. You could try unplugging the dash and see what happens, but there are probably a few switches tied to the dash that could be the cause. A schematic would be the best thing to get, and go from there.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

Are schematics available here on OTT?

 

[jnschnit]

Kubota books has the workshop manual

Index of Kubotabooks/Tractor Owners Manuals/

L2800-L3400 Workshop Manual 9Y011-13193(1).pdf

 

[lugbolt]

take the dash out and look underneath at the wiring. Rodents like to get up in there and eat.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

With the help of the above replies, and downloading the WSM I was able to determine the Oil Pressure Switch, and the Ignition Switch are both faulty.

After taking everything apart, including the cluster to check the bulb (turns out it was good), the ignition switch (new one ordered along with the oil pressure switch), even the tail light assembly (bad bulb), and then putting it back together, I was able to jumper the starter to get it running and back to the cabin.

Once the new switch arrives and gets installed, if the no-start from the key problem persists, I'll dig deeper into the safety switches, to see what the real culprit is.

After r&r of all the above the Panel Fuse did not blow, so not sure what was up with that.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

I was right about one thing.
The new oil pressure switch fixed the dash panel oil light not illuminating with the key in the on position.
The new ignition switch DID NOT fix the no start. On the bright side, I've now got a spare.

It will still start by jumping the starter solenoid.

Back to the WSM and figuring out how to test and bypass safety switches w/o having to replace them all, and end up with bunches of spares, which might not be all bad.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

Feel free to answer the "how to bypass seat switch on L3400" question in either thread. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/how-to-bypass-seat-switch-on-l3400.58733/

P.S.
This will only be temporary.
A new seat switch is on order, but we won't be back from our FredNeck Acres until the first of next week and I've got some work I need Kubie to do while I'm here.

TIA

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I was right about one thing.
The new oil pressure switch fixed the dash panel oil light not illuminating with the key in the on position.
The new ignition switch DID NOT fix the no start. On the bright side, I've now got a spare.

It will still start by jumping the starter solenoid.

Back to the WSM and figuring out how to test and bypass safety switches w/o having to replace them all, and end up with bunches of spares, which might not be all bad.

The WSM on kubotabooks says Scotland, so there's some possibility that this is in error. Here's part of the electrical diagram

Here's what I'd do
1. With PTO and gear range in neutral, key off, measure resistance from the black with white wire on the starter relay to chassis ground, or B-. It should read almost zero. If so, your safety switches are not the problem.
2. Connect, on Volts, the + lead on your meter to the black with red wire and ground the - lead. Turn the starter switch to 'start'. You should see about 12 volts. If not, you have a problem with the switch, fuse, or wire on the 'hot' side.

After doing those two, you know which side of the relay to chase. You only have two start safety switches, PTO neutral and range neutral. Thanks to OP Presence, those are double pole switches.
1. Pull the connector off the PTO switch. Connect a jumper from the B/W wire (unfortunately there are two - try both) to ground and try the start switch. If it cranks (may not start), that switch, or contact, is bad.
2. Assuming that didn't work. put the PTO switch connector back on and go to the range switch. Pull its connector and jumper from the B/Y wire to ground. If it cranks then, the neutral switch is bad. You can also jumper B/Y to B to check the ground wire.

Use caution and I hope that helps.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

The WSM on kubotabooks says Scotland, so there's some possibility that this is in error. Here's part of the electrical diagram
View attachment 83580
Here's what I'd do
1. With PTO and gear range in neutral, key off, measure resistance from the black with white wire on the starter relay to chassis ground, or B-. It should read almost zero. If so, your safety switches are not the problem.
2. Connect, on Volts, the + lead on your meter to the black with red wire and ground the - lead. Turn the starter switch to 'start'. You should see about 12 volts. If not, you have a problem with the switch, fuse, or wire on the 'hot' side.

After doing those two, you know which side of the relay to chase. You only have two start safety switches, PTO neutral and range neutral. Thanks to OP Presence, those are double pole switches.
1. Pull the connector off the PTO switch. Connect a jumper from the B/W wire (unfortunately there are two - try both) to ground and try the start switch. If it cranks (may not start), that switch, or contact, is bad.
2. Assuming that didn't work. put the PTO switch connector back on and go to the range switch. Pull its connector and jumper from the B/Y wire to ground. If it cranks then, the neutral switch is bad. You can also jumper B/Y to B to check the ground wire.

Use caution and I hope that helps.

I'll give those a whirl.
Thanks for the detailed reply.

 

[Kubie L3400D]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions in both threads.
Turns out, I'm a dumbass on the "no crank" problem.
1st, seat was flipped forward when it "died in the woods', which I'm thinking it should.
2nd, I missed diagnosed the neutral safety switch. Appears the switch is good, the shift lever has corrosion on the contact point, which when cleaned up test poifect.

So, problem solved, mostly.
I still have to jiggle the lever a bit to make good contact and close that circuit.

Will applying a coat of dialectic grease to the contact point create a problem?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

So, problem solved, mostly.
I still have to jiggle the lever a bit to make good contact and close that circuit.

Will applying a coat of dialectic grease to the contact point create a problem?

Glad you're making progress. Sounds like a little mechanical gremlin is preventing full switch actuation. Sometimes wear in the switch itself causes it. Maybe you can bend something a little to adjust it.

I'm not sure if you're asking about greasing a mechanical or electrical point, but either should be ok, to prevent water intrusion.