L35 FEL-Steering Issues

[Nicksacco]

Hello all-
Recently I took out the front pump along with radiator etc. as part of my restoration.
I didn't tamper with the pump other than to check the bearings on the input shaft.
Prior to this, the FEL and steering worked perfectly.

I installed a new-to-me pipe (to replace the hose that was used by drilling and tapping the original pump end of the original pipe that likely rusted away). Refer to the diagram for clarity. It is part number 10 on the diagram.

After assembly I have encountered some issues:
--The FEL 'stutters' when raising (that's at any RPM) and shakes the tractor.
--I don't have any steering- additionally I cannot turn the steering wheel with wheels down.
----Wheels up, they move but it's not right - very tight.
----Also I can push against a wheel and see the steering cylinder rod move.

There are no leaks anywhere.
The hydraulic fluid is full and clean.
Part number 200 is correctly positioned.
The directional lever is forward (FEL position).
I used new Orings 020, 190, 110, and 100.
I thought perhaps the pump was sucking air, but I used radiator-type clamps on the pipes where they are coupled.

I'd appreciate anyone's experience with this kind of oddity.

 

[Roadworthy]

No experience with this problem but I have read that with some tractors you kind of need to prime the input of the hydraulic pump to get it pumping properly again. You may also have a screen or filter in the hydraulic system needing cleaned or replaced.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Have you tried shifting the transmission? I suspect that it doesn't shift. If you look at the hydraulic flow diagram or follow the suction line on the parts diagram, you'll see that the hydraulic pump located on the right side of the engine shares suction with the front pump. The flow from that pump goes through a priority valve that supplies the steering and transmission control. Then it goes through the oil cooler and back into the suction of the front pump.

I suspect the side pump circuit is air locked. The pump is located above the fluid level in the sump, so it's not self priming. Maybe if you loosen the suction line on the side pump and pour some fluid in the pump suction it'll prime. Maybe also loosen the discharge line until it primes. Be prepared for a mess.

 

[Nicksacco]

Thanks @PoTreeBoy and @Roadworthy.
I am taking a physical break and reading as much as I can.
No I have not tried putting the machine in gear.

I somehow think that air is the culprit but I don't see why the steering wheel doesn't want to turn with engine on or off. The Gerotor is supposed to turn the wheels without the engine. Maybe it is air messing things up.

I had hoses disconnected for quite some time while awaiting completion of work and I do know that the 2 steering lines to the steering cylinder were were drained.

Before I started the machine, I poured quite a bit of oil into the top of the oil cooler. That was designed to put a bit of prime into the front pump which was dry. Maybe a quart of hyd oil.

However I did not try to prime the power steering pump. Hmmm, Let me see what I can do.
Yea, anything hydraulic is a mess.

 

[Nicksacco]

So I wanted to let you know what I've found.
@PoTreeBoy you are on the money!

(And it's really hot here in the N of NC)
The side pump is definitely not pumping.
The steering doesn't have much air in it.
When I loosen the fitting (a hose on mine) that goes to the GST - no oil comes out when running.
Hmmm, I really can't believe the pump suddenly went bad while not in use.
I'll have to remove a few things to remove the input pipe (which mates with the pipe to the front pump via a hose).
Then I'll try priming - I'll see what the heck is going on.
I better line the barn with plastic!

 

[lugbolt]

those pumps are self priming as almost all kubota's are

the symptoms you describe at consistent with a suction side leak, suction side restriction, and/or a failing pump.

 

[Nicksacco]

Right you are @lugbolt
Have a look at these pics - It is the rusted oil input line.
It is held in place with two bolts.
The first bolt actually came out fairly easily (as usual).
The second was rusted so badly to the input pipe I had to cut the mating part to the pump to break the bolt off.
Yes, I sent away for a new one - No point trying to fix this mess.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Right you are @lugbolt
Have a look at these pics - It is the rusted oil input line.
It is held in place with two bolts.
The first bolt actually came out fairly easily (as usual).
The second was rusted so badly to the input pipe I had to cut the mating part to the pump to break the bolt off.
Yes, I sent away for a new one - No point trying to fix this mess.

Looks like a crack/pit in those first two pictures. Were you having hydraulic problems? Mine had a loose clamp on one of the suction hoses, and it chirped when I shifted gears.

 

[Nicksacco]

Hi @PoTreeBoy. I was not having hydraulic issues but I'm pretty sure I know what happened:
As I was putting everything back together, I was pulling on the input pipe to fit it to the tee in the main oil input going to the front pump.

Lord knows I didn't want to disturb the side pump input too much as I knew it was rusty.
As you see, it was already pretty bad and a jolt or two cracked thru the weak rusted metal.

That's why I was so puzzled when I cranked everything up and had no steering or drive gears.
It had all worked perfectly prior. I guess it was a matter o'time.

MB tractor wanted $99 and $30 shipping
Coleman wanted $95 and $15 shipping