Hydraulics Grey Beard needed; help with a backhoe control valve alternative

[TheOldHokie]

Sorry I should of said. replace the electronic control.

I am not following this. If you remove the solenoid valve the electronic control and wiring goes with it. You then have a valve without AR.

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Ok, with reference to your 1st post.... that solenoid is #460, bolted onto the valve by #440(2 pcs)
There should be a 'rod' or 'shaft' in itthat will push against #440, that then pushes aganist 430,370(lots of parts). If oil came out, maybe #420 is an o-ring.so when the 2 screws (440) get loose ??
It looks like the 'green' solenoid is on top of the valve ,the 'yellow' one on the bottom. Same construction just colour coded to keep from messing up direction.
How it could work is, depending on the power applied to one or both solenoids, the 'plungers' ( rods in the cores...) will move the spool section(370) , up or down, making 'something ' move...
It 'should' be an easy repair, but a bummer that it's NOT the top one.
I'd remove the top one, to see how it goes together... then , get oring and screws, reattach the yellow one. For sure I'd add 'star' lockwashers and/or 'threadlocker' (nail polish in a pinch...) to secure the 2 screws holding it on.
Hopefully you HAVE the 'plunger'.

 

[kubotafreak]

The leak more than likely blew that end cap off. Appears to be a rolled lip that retains the end cap. The replacement seals are obtainable. I would do both top and bottom. So no issue there. You can remove the lower solenoid, buy the spring cap kit, and leave the top as is. Just unplug the upper solenoid. It should work as intended. You can go further if you want to completely be rid of the apendages, but it will get costly.

 

[ChilemanX4]

Ok, with reference to your 1st post.... that solenoid is #460, bolted onto the valve by #440(2 pcs)
There should be a 'rod' or 'shaft' in itthat will push against #440, that then pushes aganist 430,370(lots of parts). If oil came out, maybe #420 is an o-ring.so when the 2 screws (440) get loose ??
It looks like the 'green' solenoid is on top of the valve ,the 'yellow' one on the bottom. Same construction just colour coded to keep from messing up direction.
How it could work is, depending on the power applied to one or both solenoids, the 'plungers' ( rods in the cores...) will move the spool section(370) , up or down, making 'something ' move...
It 'should' be an easy repair, but a bummer that it's NOT the top one.
I'd remove the top one, to see how it goes together... then , get oring and screws, reattach the yellow one. For sure I'd add 'star' lockwashers and/or 'threadlocker' (nail polish in a pinch...) to secure the 2 screws holding it on.
Hopefully you HAVE the 'plunger'.

Thanks, I am going to attempt replacing the seals (#420). The solenoid end cap came off, assuming a blown seal over pressurized it.

 

[ChilemanX4]

The leak more than likely blew that end cap off. Appears to be a rolled lip that retains the end cap. The replacement seals are obtainable. I would do both top and bottom. So no issue there. You can remove the lower solenoid, buy the spring cap kit, and leave the top as is. Just unplug the upper solenoid. It should work as intended. You can go further if you want to completely be rid of the apendages, but it will get costly.

Thanks, Yes the end cap came off. Yes it appears to be just a rolled lip that retains the end cap. Do you have any advise for fixing the rolled lip after end cap is re-assembled? I need both solenoid to operate. The swing function is controlled electronically even if AR is not used.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, It took a little while for the 'light bulb' to come on..having a side by side picture of 'good' vs 'bad' would have helped...but...
one possible solution....
carefully unroll the 'rolled' edge..
once the 'guts' are put back into where they belong...
'roll' the edge back over. I'm thinking maybe big channel-lock to grab the other side of the solenoid and LIGHTLY roll the edge down. One of those 'easier to do than say' operations.
I'd also fabricate a 1/2"wide strap ,'U' with tabs ( a square edged 'omega' ?) that tightly fits the solenoid. It'd be held in place by the two mtg screws ( #440).
yeah, I'd make 3 or 4 straps, use the best ones for BOTH valves ! Ounce of prevention idea...

 

[kubotafreak]

Thanks, Yes the end cap came off. Yes it appears to be just a rolled lip that retains the end cap. Do you have any advise for fixing the rolled lip after end cap is re-assembled? I need both solenoid to operate. The swing function is controlled electronically even if AR is not used.

manually swedging is prob your only option. Dont know how much material you have to work with, or how soft. You need to get the cap clamped down and tap the lip in a pie crust manner. Fixing the blownout seal is imparative.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

if you have a 10-20T shop press find a pulley(?) or maybe socket(?) with the correct ID to swage the end cap back on.It'll be kinda finiky fun to do..key is SETUP.

 

[Henro]

I need to ask, What is a "Hydraulics Grey Beard"?

I respect TheOldHokie's knowledge with respect to the subject. Perhaps he knows?