Adding a PTO hour meter

[DeepWoods]

I decided to add an hour meter to keep track of the PTO hours so I can do a better job of maintaining my snowblower. It has a 4 hour interval for chain lubrication, and a 20 hour interval for greasing the drive shaft, and u joints. I already keep a maintenance journal to record all operating hours, but don’t run the PTO the entire time the engine is running so actual PTO hours are always a guess as to actual time running. Adding a switch to the PTO engagement lever will allow me to power the hour meter only while the PTO is running.

So far it has been a very easy to fashion a mounting bracket to hold the switch, and there is already a 12v aux. source at the rear of the seat area that I can use to power the hour meter. So with a small amount of wiring, and a few terminals, it will be complete. I have a 12v hour meter on order from Amazon, so as soon as I receive it I will install it in the plastic shroud around the levers that control the PTO engagement and transmission speed selector. Here is a picture of my progress so far

 

[kubotafreak]

Nice, makes me want to get off my butt, and install a hubometer on my gooseneck.

 

[imnukensc]

To each their own I reckon, but I would've just used the hour meter on the tractor.

 

[Henro]

To each their own I reckon, but I would've just used the hour meter on the tractor.

How do you do that when the PTO only operates some of the time?

Personally I think the OP's solution is right on! Anything else is just a best guess...

Natually, I live most of my life in the best guess mode...so I kind of get what you are saying...imnukensc...LOL

 

[imnukensc]

How do you do that when the PTO only operates some of the time?

Personally I think the OP's solution is right on! Anything else is just a best guess...

Natually, I live most of my life in the best guess mode...so I kind of get what you are saying...imnukensc...LOL

I don't think it's worth the trouble to put in a separate meter for PTO hours. If you grease it/oil it early or more often than required, then it doesn't matter. 'Course, I did my 50 hour service at 48 hours.

 

[DustyRusty]

I understand what you are wanting to do, but I see it as overkill. I oil the chain with chain bar oil after every storm or before every storm, depending on my own schedule. I grease the driveshaft cross shafts at the beginning of the season and using my old snowblower for 17 or 18 years, I never had a cross-bearing (some call them universals) go bad. I have been thinking a lot about the chain, since that does a lot of work, and have started thinking about going to a motorcycle chain lubricant since those chains see a lot more use than a snowblower chain. When I remove the quick hitch, I will clean and service the bearings and have never had to replace one. If I were using my snowblower in a commercial setting, I could see having the hour meter. If you get very frequent snowfalls, then it might make sense for you.

 

[DeepWoods]

I get the comments that say it is overkill, but it comes from 30 years of doing building and equipment maintenance for a major retailer. Most of the maintenance that I did was on lift equipment, and all of them had hour meters on them for routine maintenance. Just a habit now in my retirement years.

Also I find as I am getting older, my memory sucks! It has gotten so bad that it is taking me a lot longer to do just the simple tasks, and I can use all the help I can get. You younger guys have it easy, but your time will come.

 

[DeepWoods]

Well, my hour meter was delivered yesterday, so I spent the morning finishing the install. I didn’t get to locate the meter where I wanted to due to the inner fender having a profile that wouldn’t allow it, but it is still readily viewable from the sitting position. After cutting a hole, and a few more wire connections, it’s done. For the $15 investment and a couple hours of my time, I think it will be worth it. Oh, and I was able to move the warning sticker from the counsel to the window. Any, here are a couple pictures of the install.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK, I gotta ask, what's the white 'magnetic switch' with the red& white wires for ?
If that V3 leaf switch is actually 'Made in USA', it'll outlive both of us ! Used 100s of them,decades ago,never ,ever had one fail in the steel mill.

 

[DeepWoods]

OK, I gotta ask, what's the white 'magnetic switch' with the red& white wires for ?
If that V3 leaf switch is actually 'Made in USA', it'll outlive both of us ! Used 100s of them,decades ago,never ,ever had one fail in the steel mill.

Short answer is, it is my seat switch. Long answer is here:

B2650 Seat Switch Problem Solved

I have had my B2650HSDC for almost 2 years and have had a intermittent seat switch problem almost from the begining. Because I have no way to get my tractor back to the dealer to have the seat switch replaced under warranty, I have had the seat switch bypassed since late summer. Well I have...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[GreensvilleJay]

nice, do you know if it's the GREAT 'reed' switch inside or an 'open mechanical' one ?
Reed will never ,ever fail providing current kept low through it.
Mechanical ones might 'gorf' up if case isn't well sealed.

 

[DeepWoods]

I know it is about 30 years old, as it came from the alarm system I installed in a previous residence. Just something left over that I could never throw away being the pack rat that I am. Figured I could eventually find a use for it. Pretty sure it is a reed switch, if my memory serves me right.

 

[William1]

Regarding chain, a good, sealed oring motorcycle chain never needs lubrication and will probably out last the tractor.
Nice install of the Hobbs meter and switch.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: switch type... easy test.. draw magnet close to it.
THUNK...it's mechincal.
tink..it's a reed

best mechanical ones were by ADEMCO, form C style(SPDT) no way a thief could bypass them...
best reeds were on Ann Arbor terminals, each key was a vertical reed switch, key cap had a circular magnet

 

[DustyRusty]

re: switch type... easy test.. draw magnet close to it.
THUNK...it's mechincal.
tink..it's a reed

best mechanical ones were by ADEMCO, form C style(SPDT) no way a thief could bypass them...
best reeds were on Ann Arbor terminals, each key was a vertical reed switch, key cap had a circular magnet

y'all me Alarm Device Manufacturing Company? They made great bungler alarm products. I loved their wide gap magnetic switches that took care of doors that you couldn't keep from rattling in a wind.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

YES... my house is still hardwired with them ! Have a couple ADEMCO panels here, must be 50 years old..
gotta be in box with a 'timeclock' unit from local steel mill.....25 cycle...so predate 1950sish.

 

[RalphVa]

Details on where you got it/price?

I only lubricate the Ujoints on stuff before putting it on. Where's the grease going to go? It's mostly sealed up and not gonna wash away.

 

[DeepWoods]

Details on where you got it/price?

I only lubricate the Ujoints on stuff before putting it on. Where's the grease going to go? It's mostly sealed up and not gonna wash away.

Here is a link to Amazon

Amazon.com: DC 6-80V Mechanical Hour Meter - AIMILAR Hourmeter for Diesel Engine Generator Boat Motorcross Motor Truck Tractor : Automotive

Buy DC 6-80V Mechanical Hour Meter - AIMILAR Hourmeter for Diesel Engine Generator Boat Motorcross Motor Truck Tractor: Hour Meter - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Turns out after rereading my operating manual for the blower, the Ujoints only need grease every 40 hours, or once a season if used less than 40 hours. Guess I’ve been over greasing the drive shaft since new

 

[GreensvilleJay]

My forkift doesn't have any grease in the double Carden joints,hasn't for years. Come to think of it, there's NO needle bearings in one either...'good' 3/8" slop...

 

[Henro]

Turns out after rereading my operating manual for the blower, the Ujoints only need grease every 40 hours, or once a season if used less than 40 hours. Guess I’ve been over greasing the drive shaft since new

Nothing wrong with over greasing, lots wrong with under greasing...You have done well so far.