Wheel Spacers Wannabe

[TheOldHokie]

I received the two slabs of aluminum I ordered - $153 on my doorstep. I must say the quality of the saw cut is impressive 2.130" thick with .005 variance. Now all I have to do is find the time to clean them up and punch the holes.

Dan

 

[jimh406]

Looks like a fun project.

 

[PaulR]

Stuff like this makes me nervous. It's like..you've got ONE chance!!!...Don't F it up!!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Stuff like this makes me nervous. It's like..you've got ONE chance!!!...Don't F it up!!

Not much to f-up here and its not a big bucks or irreplaceable part.

1. Chuck it up on the lathe and turn the hub side counterbore.
2. Re-chuck on the milling machine using the counterbore as the register.
3. Key the bolt circle ( 6 on 170mm) into the readout and drill the holes for the lugs.
4. Back to the lathe to turn the pilot for the rims, clean up the OD, and chamfer the edges.

Now if I could just find someplace to get the new wheel hardware at a reasonable price.....

Dan

 

[RalphVa]

You gonna do 12 holes with 6 countersunk to use bolts to hold them to the shaft end and then studs screwed in 6 other holes for mounting the wheels or 6 studs long enough to go through?

 

[TheOldHokie]

You gonna do 12 holes with 6 countersunk to use bolts to hold them to the shaft end and then studs screwed in 6 other holes for mounting the wheels or 6 studs long enough to go through?

The spacers are 2" thick. I am going to do 6 x 16.5 mm drilled holes. Wheel hardware is same as factory - 2 longer studs to facilitate alignment and 4 longer cap screws.

Dan

 

[85Hokie]

Dan,

I know that you will be +/- about .005" ....... based on prior work that you did for me. I have no doubt they will be better than those that are mass produced.

And the feeling in the seat of your pants once the spacers are on will be just as rewarding as making them.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Dan,

I know that you will be +/- about .005" ....... based on prior work that you did for me. I have no doubt they will be better than those that are mass produced.

And the feeling in the seat of your pants once the spacers are on will be just as rewarding as making them.

Thats my general tolerance. I can do better if necessary but that's not typical.

Stability wise I have actually gotten comfortable with the narrow tread width - maybe too comfortable at times. But the lack of tire clearance drives me crazy and is the primary motivation. Non-adjustable wheels is just plain cheap and stupid. As is no wheel weights. If I was conspiratorial I might think they were trying to push customers into more expensive machines....

Dan

 

[Pawnee]

The spacers are 2" thick. I am going to do 6 x 16.5 mm drilled holes. Wheel hardware is same as factory - 2 longer studs to facilitate alignment and 4 longer cap screws.

Dan

Not sure it makes any difference but I will have 6 studs per side, no bolts.
Gut feeling is that 2 studs will be easier to get lined up.
I'm not likely to be taking the wheels off much anyway.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Not sure it makes any difference but I will have 6 studs per side, no bolts.
Gut feeling is that 2 studs will be easier to get lined up.
I'm not likely to be taking the wheels off much anyway.

I was leaning that direction until I priced the material for the studs. The cheapest I found was $60 per 1000mm stick. Trying to get 12 pieces out of that is cutting it mighty close. Cap screws are $3,50 each.

 

[JimmyJazz]

How much money do you save by drilling the holes and buying the bolts yourself ?

 

[TheOldHokie]

How much money do you save by drilling the holes and buying the bolts yourself ?

Not enough. The total for the set will be right at $250. A set of BORAs is $375. But I got these in just a few days and BORAs are weeks if not months out.

If I was making multiple sets I could probably knock $50 off the cost by purchasing the hardware in bulk.

Dan

 

[JimmyJazz]

Not enough. The total for the set will be right at $250. A set of BORAs is $375. But I got these in just a few days and BORAs are weeks if not months out.

If I was making multiple sets I could probably knock $50 off the cost by purchasing the hardware in bulk.

Dan

If you can do it that's part of the fun. Good luck ,seems complicated to me. Oddly I was offered a lathe by a friend for free yesterday and I told him I had no use. Even if I had one it would take quite a bit of time (maybe years) to learn how to use it. Cheers to you for possessing the ability and Merry Christmas.

 

[TheOldHokie]

If you can do it that's part of the fun. Good luck ,seems complicated to me. Oddly I was offered a lathe by a friend for free yesterday and I told him I had no use. Even if I had one it would take quite a bit of time (maybe years) to learn how to use it. Cheers to you for possessing the ability and Merry Christmas.

It is part of the fun and I derive a sense of satisfaction from quick little projects like this.

You should have taken the lathe. It doesn't take years to get proficient.

Dan

 

[Pawnee]

It is part of the fun and I derive a sense of satisfaction from quick little projects like this.

You should have taken the lathe. It doesn't take years to get proficient.

Dan

+1
Making stuff round without a lathe is much more difficult.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Not much to f-up here and its not a big bucks or irreplaceable part.

1. Chuck it up on the lathe and turn the hub side counterbore.
2. Re-chuck on the milling machine using the counterbore as the register.
3. Key the bolt circle ( 6 on 170mm) into the readout and drill the holes for the lugs.
4. Back to the lathe to turn the pilot for the rims, clean up the OD, and chamfer the edges.

Now if I could just find someplace to get the new wheel hardware at a reasonable price.....

Dan

Could you maybe snap a couple pics along the way? Interesting!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Could you maybe snap a couple pics along the way? Interesting!

Absolutely.

Dan

 

[Lil Foot]

I made a set 0f (4) 2" thick 6061 aluminum spacers for Lil Foot (the Turf Truck) years ago, the same way,
easy as pie.

 

[NCL4701]

Not much to f-up here and its not a big bucks or irreplaceable part.

1. Chuck it up on the lathe and turn the hub side counterbore.
2. Re-chuck on the milling machine using the counterbore as the register.
3. Key the bolt circle ( 6 on 170mm) into the readout and drill the holes for the lugs.
4. Back to the lathe to turn the pilot for the rims, clean up the OD, and chamfer the edges.

Now if I could just find someplace to get the new wheel hardware at a reasonable price.....

Dan

To someone with no lathe and nominal machining experience that’s kind of funny. Made me realize how my friends feel when they ask me about woodworking stuff. When I say something like, “Mortise and tenons are great joints and really easy. The hollow chisel mortiser on your drill press will knock out the mortise in no time. Then you can either throw the dado head on the table saw to cut the tenon or use your band saw, whichever you prefer.” Then they look at me like I have two heads and was speaking Chinese (which is how I would be looking at you if we were in the same room).

So thanks for that.

 

[TheOldHokie]

To someone with no lathe and nominal machining experience that’s kind of funny. Made me realize how my friends feel when they ask me about woodworking stuff. When I say something like, “Mortise and tenons are great joints and really easy. The hollow chisel mortiser on your drill press will knock out the mortise in no time. Then you can either throw the dado head on the table saw to cut the tenon or use your band saw, whichever you prefer.” Then they look at me like I have two heads and was speaking Chinese (which is how I would be looking at you if we were in the same room).

So thanks for that.

I guess I assumed to much knowledge for a tractor forum about fabrication. Maybe some pictures when I get around to this will help explain the metal working operations. They are not all that different than woodworking which was my first love.

Thats why I have no problem understanding your description of mortising a joint. I have done a few but not enough to invest in a mortising chisel for my drill press. I make do with a router and hand chisel. I do however own a very nice old Unisaw and a cheap Craftsman dado head for cutting things like tenons and rabbets.

The Unisaw is a blast from the past and the twin of the one I used in junior high school wood shop (1964 ?). It is 3 phase, solid as a rock, and runs quiet and smooth as silk. It too spent its youth in a school woodshop and has the name of the Pittsburgh middle school engraved on the miter gauge. I keep hoping to find one of the old Rockwell jointers to go with it.

Metal or woodworking, machine tools all bite so wear your glasses, watch where you put your fingers, and have a very Merry and Happy Christmas

Dan