Is it worth fixing / replacing a differential case on a B20? It runs good just unsure how involved/expensive it is to repair/replace. Any advise is welcome.
Cracked Differential Case on a B20
- Thread starter ChilemanX4
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85Hokie
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
got a picture handy? the crack may be an easy fix - then again it may need to replaced.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Great pictures - anyway to tell "how" that crack happened?
My first thought would be drill a hole where the red dot it located (to stop the crack for increasing) - take a dremel tool, grind a slight bevel in there and then use the best JB weld for aluminum.
The best answer is to have it removed and then TIG welded - I take it that oil leaks from the crack? IF so - you might be able to park the tractor on a slight slant and allow the crack to dry or empty the diffy and then repair.
But TIG welding will fix it the best. JB will do the job IF there is no more tension on the crack.
Does the crack seem to get bigger over time ?
My first thought would be drill a hole where the red dot it located (to stop the crack for increasing) - take a dremel tool, grind a slight bevel in there and then use the best JB weld for aluminum.
The best answer is to have it removed and then TIG welded - I take it that oil leaks from the crack? IF so - you might be able to park the tractor on a slight slant and allow the crack to dry or empty the diffy and then repair.
But TIG welding will fix it the best. JB will do the job IF there is no more tension on the crack.
Does the crack seem to get bigger over time ?
Knowing the why is important in my opinion.
A full picture with the path of the crack marked on the photo would help understanding the failure
Some history of the machine and its hoe is very relevant.
A hoe can exert serious stresses on the rear of the tractor. I recall NIW cautioning owners of 3 pt hitch style hoes to be certain to use the reinforced hardware and not just the normal top link.
If the hoe frame is incorrectly installed, loose or cracked itself, the stresses it is intended to manage are not being looked after and the cracked diff case could be the result.
If it were not the rear end of a TLB then the JB weld would be an option but absent more info I am very cautious..
It is the expensive bits inside which will be the serious loss if the part were to fail completely.
Dave
A full picture with the path of the crack marked on the photo would help understanding the failure
Some history of the machine and its hoe is very relevant.
A hoe can exert serious stresses on the rear of the tractor. I recall NIW cautioning owners of 3 pt hitch style hoes to be certain to use the reinforced hardware and not just the normal top link.
If the hoe frame is incorrectly installed, loose or cracked itself, the stresses it is intended to manage are not being looked after and the cracked diff case could be the result.
If it were not the rear end of a TLB then the JB weld would be an option but absent more info I am very cautious..
It is the expensive bits inside which will be the serious loss if the part were to fail completely.
Dave
Pau7220
Well-known member
Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
Dave is correct with needing more history as to how, when, and why. That's going to be a very tough repair because the crack goes around a corner and into a mating flange. Success is unlikely with anything short of disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and welding.
Unfortunately I don't have history. I got the tractor with the leak. It may have gotten slightly worse while using a box blade, but I can't be sure. What kind of job is it to remove the case? Are there any special tools required (pullers, gauges, large wrenches, etc)?
Before you sink big $ into repair, you need to find someone who can figure out why it cracked.
You could replace the case and have it break again.
Did you get it with a hoe attached? i.e. a TLB (Tractor Loader Backhoe)
You mention using a box blade.............
Dave
that stuff is not easy to weld. It's been full of oil, grease, dirt for.....how long? Oil/grease/dirt/anything is terrible news for aluminum welding. It can be done but it is not going to be easy, and by all means don't use some welder who ain't got a lot of aluminum (cast) experience.
Replace it if possible. While in there inspect everything very well. I haven't seen the case crack however I've seen ring and/or pinion gears lose teeth, and when the loose teeth get jammed between other parts stuff breaks.
Replace it if possible. While in there inspect everything very well. I haven't seen the case crack however I've seen ring and/or pinion gears lose teeth, and when the loose teeth get jammed between other parts stuff breaks.
Thanks Dave for your insights.
It did come with the hoe attached. I removed it due to a broken solenoid and to test the PTO/3 pt. I am confident it was cracked/leaking before the hoe was removed. Unfortunately, I don't have any history with the tractor to asses cause.
Are you aware of any mitigations/preventative measure that should be taken?
Thanks Lugbolt;
Sounds like a weld option is possible but may not be preferred. I will try to find a replacement case. Any insight as to the difficulty level of the R&R? Any specialty tool required?
The suggestion by 85Hokie regarding a drilled hole to try and stop the spreading of the cracks is a valid one.
To explain further, if you start tearing a piece of paper with your eyes you can see the end of the crack. If you were to look at the end of the crack at a microscopic level, you would see actual crack damage and progression further along than the naked eye can see. The very tip of the crack is a location with very high stresses. The round hole drilled in this high stress area tends to blunt the crack and stop its further progression.
My earlier request: A full picture of the tractor with the path of the crack marked on the photo would help understanding the failure
would provide more insight.
Dave
To explain further, if you start tearing a piece of paper with your eyes you can see the end of the crack. If you were to look at the end of the crack at a microscopic level, you would see actual crack damage and progression further along than the naked eye can see. The very tip of the crack is a location with very high stresses. The round hole drilled in this high stress area tends to blunt the crack and stop its further progression.
My earlier request: A full picture of the tractor with the path of the crack marked on the photo would help understanding the failure
would provide more insight.
Dave
My buddy bought a REALLY NICE small tractor for cheep.... later found out it was cracked not unlike this one.
There are several theorys how his got cracked. All of them involve OVERLOADING in some way. (Bucket overloaded, bucket scraping into a large stone, snowblower hitting something....etc)
There are several theorys how his got cracked. All of them involve OVERLOADING in some way. (Bucket overloaded, bucket scraping into a large stone, snowblower hitting something....etc)