B6200 HST new owner - front end shake

Tobers

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Feb 7, 2021
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Durham, NC
Just got my first tractor - a B6200 HST 2wd. So excited! Runs great but I noticed both front wheels are very shaky/wobbly. I cut my yard with it fine, but surely there is too much slop/wiggle/shimmy in both of them. They will jump a bit (left and right from the driver's point of view) going straight, but when I crank a hard turn they really jump about. Front tires are new in the past couple of years - don't show any wear. Where do I start to address this? thanks for helping a newbie.
B91CC15E-D368-48F3-938B-6350BBF5E509_1_105_c.jpeg
 
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Dave_eng

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Diagnosis is simplified by the tractor not having 4 wheel drive.

You need to jack the front axle of the tractor up and then move wheels to see where the looseness is happening.

The axle pivots so jack in the middle.

You may have wheel bearing issues or steering linkage issues.

Dave
 

Tobers

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Feb 7, 2021
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Durham, NC
Diagnosis is simplified by the tractor not having 4 wheel drive.

You need to jack the front axle of the tractor up and then move wheels to see where the looseness is happening.

The axle pivots so jack in the middle.

You may have wheel bearing issues or steering linkage issues.

Dave
thanks dave. will do and report back. rick
 

Tobers

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Feb 7, 2021
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Durham, NC
thanks dave. will do and report back. rick
Put it on a jack. There is a tiny bit of slop in one wheel bearing - barely. None in the other. But if I hold the steering wheel firm and move the threaded rod back and forth (see arrows on pic), there is 2 inches of slop back and forth, without the steering wheel moving, which explains why it is really, really all over the place going forward. I won't put it into high speed - too much movement. Now what? Thank you. Rick
 

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Russell King

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Does any other part move like the arm attached to the threaded bar (tie rod) and the upper rod that is running front to back? That rod should attach to a short arm (pitman arm) that attaches to the steering box output shaft.

What all moves or stays stationary?
 

Donystoy

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From the picture the connection of the assembly to the top of the king pin appears to be not tight and is moving. If that is the case the bolt clamping it around the king pin might be able to be tightened. That and worn tie rod ends might be the cause of the slop.
 

Tobers

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Feb 7, 2021
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Durham, NC
From the picture the connection of the assembly to the top of the king pin appears to be not tight and is moving. If that is the case the bolt clamping it around the king pin might be able to be tightened. That and worn tie rod ends might be the cause of the slop.
reporting back in. If I look down on top of the tire, if none of the arms move, there is maybe 30-45 degrees rotation of the tire. So if I don't change the steering in anyway, and no links move, that tire is rotating around the vertical shaft that holds it on.
 

Tobers

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it's the left wheel (as I'm driving). the slop isn't in the right wheel the same way. As I drive I think there is a bit of play in the steering (as evidenced by the right side), but the big wobble is on the left.
 

Donystoy

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As I previously said it looks like the knuckle arm that is clamped around the top of the king pin is not tight. Does the top of this shaft move in relation to the knuckle arm when you move the tire side to side? By the look of the grease around the shaft it certainly appears loose. If that is the case simply tighten the knuckle arm clamp so that the king pin (vertical shaft) and the knuckle arm move as one.
 

Russell King

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There may be a key in that vertical joint also, I can’t recall But go to Kubota USA and then illustrated parts list to see how it should be assembled.
 

Tobers

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i have a video looking down at that joint, but I can't get it posted. I don't think the shaft or key moves while the tire does. I'll check tomorrow. I'll also look at the kubota parts diagram. thank you. rick
 

Donystoy

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Looked at my shop manual and it does show a key in the top of the shaft. Surely it has not worn out. I have seen aluminum keys where they break but were designed to break to stop more serious damage happening. The key on this shaft I assume is steel.
 

Tobers

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Durham, NC
Looked at my shop manual and it does show a key in the top of the shaft. Surely it has not worn out. I have seen aluminum keys where they break but were designed to break to stop more serious damage happening. The key on this shaft I assume is steel.
donystoy was right! On my video, shot from the top, it appeared that the shaft didn't spin. It didn't "spin." BUT, there was enough slop in the key that the key and shaft slopped back and forth. I don't know the proper torque, but I probably put 1/2-3/4 turn on that nut/bolt. And it definitely took out the slop. So next time I cut the yard/turn it hard I'll watch both sides and see how it does, but I'm calling it good for now. THANK YOU!
 

Donystoy

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Glad it worked out. If the key is what is worn, the proper way is to also replace it with a new one. This is usually a simple job.