What do you guys do to replace the rubber boots on some of these links. This one is the steering link on a B5200 tractor. The parts manual just shows the entire rod instead of the boot. It's not like a tie rod end, the end is welded to the shaft as one piece. Mechanically it is fine, I just need to grease it and put a boot on the end.
Rubber boot
- Thread starter Steve Neul
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
1) degrease the boot REAL good, REAL GOOD
2) run finger on the inside, then like finger
3) taste greasy ? goback to #1
4) use 'windshield urethane' caulking on the ripped seam and inside of the boot to 'glue' it back together.
5) give it 2 days to fully cure..
6) done right ,it'll outlive you
2) run finger on the inside, then like finger
3) taste greasy ? goback to #1
4) use 'windshield urethane' caulking on the ripped seam and inside of the boot to 'glue' it back together.
5) give it 2 days to fully cure..
6) done right ,it'll outlive you
The boots are original to the tractor and are more than 35 years old and need replacing. I just can't find one that is sold by measurements. You go look for a tie rod boot and you need a make and model car it fits on which is useless. I tried one that I had for a Jeep and it was way too big.
Thanks for the links. I couldn't find a place like that. Unfortunately this particular boot is really short and none of them would work. The height is only 7/16" and their shortest one is more than 3/4".
My Nuffield was an odd machine and I found a universal product at a Ford dealer to replace the boot.
It was actually a piece of dense foam with a hole in the middle. It just got squashed between the arm and the joint and did a good job of sealing the joint. A piece of Yoga mat perhaps......
Remember, you are looking at your torn boot after it was in place for decades, the new longer boot will compress so if you can find one whose big diameter matches yours I would try it.
Dave
I hope to be able to find a proper part. I am working the idea of a jury rig just in case. Yesterday I replaced the wheel cylinder on my work truck and I got to thinking about it and dug it out of the trash and pulled the seals out of it. It fits nicely however the lip that fits in a groove is made to go on the inside and the steering link boot needs one that goes over the outside. If I have to I might glue them on with some windshield adhesive. I have some time, I'm having difficulty getting the other end of the rod off the pitman arm. Currently soaking it in penetrating oil.
Donystoy
Active member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
You might try places like Carquest. I picked up a package that had a couple of sizes for $5.00 when I was doing some repairs to my old Ford Explorer a couple of years ago. They had a help section that had commonly used items.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
yes, put a thin bead of urethane(winshield adhesive) around the 'joint'. It'll last another 36 years !!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Could you glue part of the real part to the brake cylinder part and get closer to the real part you need?
If it was me I might end up with at least one finger glued to the part so take careful consideration of my suggestion beforehand.
If it was me I might end up with at least one finger glued to the part so take careful consideration of my suggestion beforehand.
It wouldn't work. The brake cylinder is cast iron, I would have to saw off the section with the groove. This would end up being a quarter of an inch or more and there is only 7/16" space there for the boot.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I’m sorry that I have not been clearer in my suggestion.. I meant can you glue parts of the two rubber parts together but after reading my post I can see why you thought about the steel parts. Sorry for the confusion.
whitetiger
Moderator
Staff member
Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
I believe you are right. I was getting ready to go to town to get some weatherstrip adhesive but ordered two of these dust covers instead. Thanks. If it doesn't work I can still resort to Jury Rigging.
I received the dust covers today and it was the correct part for my tractor
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