Help w/ shuttle shift on new m4

[Sixmaxwells]

Hi guys, I just traded in my l3560 for an m4d-071 yesterday. This is my first experience driving anything w/ a clutch. I’ve managed to go from a stop to driving with minimal jerkiness but still struggling using loader(stalling out). I’m assuming this is due to not being in correct gear, and also not going full throttle(still in break in period).

im hoping I get accustomed to this change but my main question is should I expect to be able to handle an M4 with the same precision as the 3560 once I’ve had more practice or is that unrealistic expectations?

 

[NCL4701]

Yeah, you just need practice for precision. Be patient with yourself. You’ll get it.

And yes, I currently have a HST and love it for loader and blade work but it isn’t exactly my first (or second) tractor so I’m not a stranger to clutches and shuttle trannies.

 

[jimr63]

I went through the same learning curve when it came to using the loader on my M5 because I was used to TLB’s with an HST. It’s still not easy to use as a front end loader so I mostly use my L47 when doing that kind of work. The loader on my M5 is mostly used for lifting heavy things but you can get used to it with a lot of practice. A gear drive tractor is never going to be as quick as an HST doing loader work though. Likewise, an HST will never pull a ground engaging implement like a gear drive either. That’s what I tell my better half anyway.

 

[NCL4701]

A gear drive tractor is never going to be as quick as an HST doing loader work though. Likewise, an HST will never pull a ground engaging implement like a gear drive either. That’s what I tell my better half anyway.
[/QUOTE]
If you ever need a witness to testify on your behalf I’ll back you up on both points.

 

[SDT]

Hi guys, I just traded in my l3560 for an m4d-071 yesterday. This is my first experience driving anything w/ a clutch. I’ve managed to go from a stop to driving with minimal jerkiness but still struggling using loader(stalling out). I’m assuming this is due to not being in correct gear, and also not going full throttle(still in break in period).

im hoping I get accustomed to this change but my main question is should I expect to be able to handle an M4 with the same precision as the 3560 once I’ve had more practice or is that unrealistic expectations?

There is no need to operate at full throttle FEL work or otherwise.

Am I to understand that you have not operated an automobile with a stick shift? If so, you simply need to learn how to drive a vehicle with a clutch. Learning such is easier with a tractor than an automobile. Use lower gears while learning.

SDT

 

[Sixmaxwells]

Thanks for the replies. So in effort to save myself the stalling and screwing around with transmission - can you tell me the optimal gear for loader work. I’ve got a H/L and 1-6. And should it be at full throttle?

 

[Sixmaxwells]

Y

There is no need to operate at full throttle FEL work or otherwise.

Am I to understand that you have not operated an automobile with a stick shift? If so, you simply need to learn how to drive a vehicle with a clutch. Learning such is easier with a tractor than an automobile. Use lower gears while learning.

SDT

I’m 34. First time ever using clutch. This is my third tractor. First was a B2601 and then a 3560 and now m4-71. Never really had an opportunity for a manual transmission vehicle.

 

[jimr63]

Thanks for the replies. So in effort to save myself the stalling and screwing around with transmission - can you tell me the optimal gear for loader work. I’ve got a H/L and 1-6. And should it be at full throttle?

Depends...You‘ll have practice and see what the tractor likes for the work you are doing at the time. I can tell you that if you want to lift heavy the RPM’s will need to be up around the rated HP level to get full hydraulic pressure. If I’m lifting a heavy piece of equipment to move it around I use max RPM, in 2L, and slip the clutch a lot to get moving so the movement isn’t so abrupt. When I’m moving dirt or rock I’ll use a little less RPM be in 3-4L and use the shuttle to move between forward and reverse. My tires are loaded, have all the wheel weights I can fit, and I usually have something hanging off the 3 point and still have trouble sometimes finding the sweet spot using the F-R shuttle and the tires loosing traction if the RPM is high enough to lift your load, so careful clutch work is a must if you want to be smooth. It doesn’t help matters that my M5 can’t lift and roll back the bucket at the same time.

p.s. When the truck delivered my new (to me) combine this past fall my M5 lifted the 4000 lbs six row corn head off the front of his trailer (which was about a 7 feet tall deck) in low first and had the throttle all the way up in order to lift it at that height. Talk about pucker factor...That corn head was hanging off the front of my loader by about 12 ft.

 

[Sixmaxwells]

Depends...You‘ll have practice and see what the tractor likes for the work you are doing at the time. I can tell you that if you want to lift heavy the RPM’s will need to be up around the rated HP level to get full hydraulic pressure. If I’m lifting a heavy piece of equipment to move it around I use max RPM, in 2L, and slip the clutch a lot to get moving so the movement isn’t so abrupt. When I’m moving dirt or rock I’ll use a little less RPM be in 3-4L and use the shuttle to move between forward and reverse. My tires are loaded and I usually have something hanging off the 3 point and still have trouble sometimes finding the sweet spot using the F-R shuttle and the tires loosing traction if the RPM is high enough to lift your load so careful clutch work is a must if you want to be smooth. It doesn’t help matters that my M5 can’t lift and roll back the bucket at the same time.

I gotcha. Thanks for the help. That makes sense.
And how often do you use high gear? Other than driving from point A to B.

what should you use for mowing or discing?
On the 3560, I stayed in medium gear most of the time unless doing heavier work so this Hi/LO only option has me caught in between.

 

[jimr63]

I gotcha. Thanks for the help. That makes sense.
And how often do you use high gear? Other than driving from point A to B.

what should you use for mowing or discing?
On the 3560, I stayed in medium gear most of the time unless doing heavier work so this Hi/LO only option has me caught in between.

I use 4L for most of the work I do with it (disc, chisel plow) since they like to be at 5mph to work properly. I use 1H to bush hog if the quality of cut isn’t a factor, 4L for a better cut. 2-3H for transport most of the time. Used 4H once when I had to take it down the road a ways.

 

[Russell King]

Since you are new to the tractor, you should not shift gears while moving (assuming that it is a normal gear drive). Also take off with the throttle pretty low until you’re better with the clutch, then throttle up as needed.

If you’re high throttle then you will have to slowly let the clutch out until it is moving pretty fast to be fully released. You can hold the clutch pedal somewhat down (slipping) to limit how much power goes into the transmission BUT that will wear the clutch out faster than normal. It is like pressing the brake pedal puts the brake pads into contact with a rotating part to stop, doing it slowly is smooth but wears the pads. Try to not get into the habit of having your foot on the clutch pedal. People tend to push the clutch in slightly so it will slip more than if your foot is off the pedal completely

 

[jimr63]

Since you are new to the tractor, you should not shift gears while moving (assuming that it is a normal gear drive). Also take off with the throttle pretty low until you’re better with the clutch, then throttle up as needed.

If you’re high throttle then you will have to slowly let the clutch out until it is moving pretty fast to be fully released. You can hold the clutch pedal somewhat down (slipping) to limit how much power goes into the transmission BUT that will wear the clutch out faster than normal. It is like pressing the brake pedal puts the brake pads into contact with a rotating part to stop, doing it slowly is smooth but wears the pads. Try to not get into the habit of having your foot on the clutch pedal. People tend to push the clutch in slightly so it will slip more than if your foot is off the pedal completely

Agree 100%! Smooth loader work with a gear drive and hydro shuttle takes a lot of practice. Outside of loader work though, lots of times you can just use the shuttle without touching the clutch at all. The shuttle is a lot smoother start and stop than the clutch for most things, especially when using a ground engaging implement.

 

[Russell King]

Agree 100%! Smooth loader work with a gear drive and hydro shuttle takes a lot of practice. Outside of loader work though, lots of times you can just use the shuttle without touching the clutch at all. The shuttle is a lot smoother start and stop than the clutch for most things, especially when using a ground engaging implement.

Curious why you say shuttle shift? Is that all that model comes in? I don’t see any mention of that by the original poster so I have no idea if it is anything other than “gear”. I have no experience with any shuttle shift so no idea how they operate.

Edit = never mind I see it in the title now!

 

[Thunder chicken]

Sorry I’m not the best with words here, but I’ll try....
Use your foot throttle for rpm, not the hand throttle while doing loader work. (Unless you need high rpm for heavy loads)
Shuttle for F-R. Foot clutch is the same as putting the shuttle into N. physically the same ‘connection’ to the clutch. They are both an electric switch, basically. You can feather the foot clutch to better control speed and engagement over the shuttle lever. (It’s a wet clutch)
Pick a gear for speed. I’m usually using 2-4L for loader work. After a while you’ll be scooping in one gear, then while lifting the loader, shuttling between F-R, shifting gears to an higher gear to reverse and travel with your load.
While travelling/roading, i just drive it like a car... start in 1 or 2H and go up through the gears. You could use the foot clutch or the shuttle lever between gear changes as it’s ‘the same’ however I find the shuttle lever engages slightly harder than a smooth foot clutch engagement. Sometimes I’m skipping a few gears depending on conditions.

 

[SDT]

Sorry I’m not the best with words here, but I’ll try....
Use your foot throttle for rpm, not the hand throttle while doing loader work. (Unless you need high rpm for heavy loads)
Shuttle for F-R. Foot clutch is the same as putting the shuttle into N. physically the same ‘connection’ to the clutch. They are both an electric switch, basically. You can feather the foot clutch to better control speed and engagement over the shuttle lever. (It’s a wet clutch)
Pick a gear for speed. I’m usually using 2-4L for loader work. After a while you’ll be scooping in one gear, then while lifting the loader, shuttling between F-R, shifting gears to an higher gear to reverse and travel with your load.
While travelling/roading, i just drive it like a car... start in 1 or 2H and go up through the gears. You could use the foot clutch or the shuttle lever between gear changes as it’s ‘the same’ however I find the shuttle lever engages slightly harder than a smooth foot clutch engagement. Sometimes I’m skipping a few gears depending on conditions.

M4 is a synchronized, dual range gear transmission with a hydrauli

Curious why you say shuttle shift? Is that all that model comes in? I don’t see any mention of that by the original poster so I have no idea if it is anything other than “gear”. I have no experience with any shuttle shift so no idea how they operate.

Edit = never mind I see it in the title now!

M4 is a dual range, synchronized transmission with a hydraulic reverser.

SDT

 

[Tx Jim]

Sorry I’m not the best with words here, but I’ll try....
Use your foot throttle for rpm, not the hand throttle while doing loader work. (Unless you need high rpm for heavy loads)
Shuttle for F-R. Foot clutch is the same as putting the shuttle into N. physically the same ‘connection’ to the clutch. They are both an electric switch, basically. You can feather the foot clutch to better control speed and engagement over the shuttle lever. (It’s a wet clutch)
Pick a gear for speed. I’m usually using 2-4L for loader work. After a while you’ll be scooping in one gear, then while lifting the loader, shuttling between F-R, shifting gears to an higher gear to reverse and travel with your load.
While travelling/roading, i just drive it like a car... start in 1 or 2H and go up through the gears. You could use the foot clutch or the shuttle lever between gear changes as it’s ‘the same’ however I find the shuttle lever engages slightly harder than a smooth foot clutch engagement. Sometimes I’m skipping a few gears depending on conditions.

X2 what Thunder Chicken stated.

"""Utilizing foot accelerator pedal is essential to smoother tractor operation!! """"

That is the procedure I utilized on my M7040 handling 1000's of rd bales only difference is the clutch/shuttle control valve on my tractor is manually controlled not electronically controlled!

 

[Thunder chicken]

^ I could be completely out to lunch on the electronic part!! I know there’s a cable in there somewhere, but if it was tugging on a lever to a switch, or a mechanical valve was beyond me. I can’t see there being a difference in your 7040, the 7060, or the OP’s M4-071? I’d be curious to know!

 

[Sixmaxwells]

^ I could be completely out to lunch on the electronic part!! I know there’s a cable in there somewhere, but if it was tugging on a lever to a switch, or a mechanical valve was beyond me. I can’t see there being a difference in your 7040, the 7060, or the OP’s M4-071? I’d be curious to know!

I dont know of many differences. One thing the dealer told me was unique about the m4d-071 was that it has a declutch button on the shifter. The proper way to use this, is just to hold it down to shift gears while driving correct? Are there any other functions for it?

By the way, thunder, your post was probably the most helpful so far. thanks for the info!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I dont know of many differences. One thing the dealer told me was unique about the m4d-071 was that it has a declutch button on the shifter. The proper way to use this, is just to hold it down to shift gears while driving correct? Are there any other functions for it?

By the way, thunder, your post was probably the most helpful so far. thanks for the info!

I would just add to thunder's post - 1 - 4 gears are synchronized and you can shift on the fly, but the H - L range is not so you have to stop to shift it. And F - R is constant mesh, there are 2 clutches so you're just shifting a selector valve.
(I came on here a few months ago asking about an M7040, now I'm an expert )