Tractor wouldn't start on 2 occasions now, starts after messing with things

[Timmer92]

Hi all,

I have an L3901 with around 40 hours on it that has experienced the same issue twice now in the last couple of weeks. I'm not sure if I have a problem to worry about or where I should start looking for solutions if I do. In both instances, it was after using the PTO, but that may be coincidence. I am diligent about my shut down process - I lower the RPMs, press the clutch, and disengage the PTO before shutdown. I think in one instance I got off the tractor, in another I was just speaking to someone and stayed on it. I go to start it again, and nothing. No click or anything. I admittedly don't have a lot of mechanical expertise, so I'm not sure what all to look for. In each instance, I pressed the clutch and moved the PTO lever to engaged and back to disengaged again, set the parking break, and moved and lifted the seat, then tried the key again, and it starts. I assume that either there needs to be an adjustment in the PTO lever/linkage as it's not fully disengaging, or there is an issue with the safety mechanism on the seat? Other thoughts?

 

[BigG]

HST? If so the peddle safety switch may need adjusting. Since you said it was after using the PTO I would look there first. My L2501 had the PTO cable hanging up. A little PB Blaster or the like into both ends of the cable and where the shaft goes into the transmission housing might help. Have someone move the PTO switch and watch the shaft to see that it moves freely. There might be enough drag to prevent the safety switch from working correctly.

 

[Timmer92]

HST? If so the peddle safety switch may need adjusting. Since you said it was after using the PTO I would look there first. My L2501 had the PTO cable hanging up. A little PB Blaster or the like into both ends of the cable and where the shaft goes into the transmission housing might help. Have someone move the PTO switch and watch the shaft to see that it moves freely. There might be enough drag to prevent the safety switch from working correctly.

Yes, it is a HST. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Roadworthy]

Check your seat mount. My L2501 was shutting down intermittently. The rod on which the seat pivots had come loose on one end so the switch wasn't activating properly. Somehow a cotter pin had come loose (if it was ever there). Since replacing the cotter pin I've had no trouble.

 

[old and tired]

I would say that the next time it does not start. Hold the key in the start position and figure out which safety switch it is. With the key held in "Start"; I would do it this order (most common to least common safety switch problems);

Move the HST pedal forward and back slowly... (see if the engine kicks over)

Then, Wiggle your butt in the seat... Adjust your weight, back and forth, left and right...

< my guess, it's going to be one of them but... continue with; >

Fiddle with the PTO switch (might be hard to reach over to adjust it.)

Lastly, the clutch (which would be pretty rare).

You don't really want to play with all 4 of them at the same time... you will not isolate the problem. Good Luck!!! (since you posted this, surely, it's not going to happen again for a long time!!!)

 

[Timmer92]

You don't really want to play with all 4 of them at the same time... you will not isolate the problem. Good Luck!!! (since you posted this, surely, it's not going to happen again for a long time!!!)

Thanks! I agree, by messing with everything I wasn't isolating the problem. I was in the field and trying to get going. Then of course it didn't happen back at the shed.

Soon after I started having problems with the PTO not disengaging. I'm guessing the two were connected. I solved that problem by lubricating the lower control shaft and spring area where the PTO cable meets the assembly in the engine compartment. I haven't had either problem now after several uses. There are a few posts on here about how to lube the cable and control shaft. Here's one - L3901 PTO not Disengaging Correctly

 

[MOOTS]

I have an L5030 at work with a touchy PTO lever. Haven"t gotten around to fixing it, as no one complains about it. We just "know" that it has to be pushed back just a bit to start. It's our anti theft device!

 

[JCMC]

My L2501 is giving me the same problem. I will try the lube method and see what happens. When I pull back on the pto lever it started . I was wondering if there is a way to adjust the switch as it seems that the little bar that hits the switch is not pushing it far enough to engage.

 

[old and tired]

Follow the PTO cable, there are two nuts just under the bracket... that can be adjusted (if it's the same as the other old standard L's). I have adjustable nuts on both ends of the cable... (IIRC).

 

[chim]

Both the HST switch and the PTO linkage caused starting problems on the L3200 I had. Both were easy fixes. Neither of them gave me trouble a second time.

The HST repair was an adjustment to the switch so the plunger would ride the sweet spot better on the pedal assembly.

The fix for the PTO was a squirt of lube on the linkage under the tractor.

 

[lugbolt]

there's an easy way to diag safety switches on the L3301, L3901, and L4701 (maybe others but these I know for sure). Also MX5200, MX5800, MX6000.

On the dash you have two buttons. One is the park regen button the other is the DPF inhibit button. With the key turned OFF, Hold them down. THEN turn the key on. Once the key is on, let go of the two buttons, then push and hold them again until the letter "A" comes up in the panel where the digital hour meter normally is. Once you see the letter "A", hold down the inhibit button until you hear a beep (I think it's the inhibit....if it don't beep within about 3 seconds, turn the key off and start over, but use the park regen button this time). Once you hear a beep you are ready to test the switches. Mash the HST pedal down. You outta hear a beep every time the switch enters or exits neutral position. Hop up off the seat. You outta hear a beep each time the switch enters and exits the "run" position. Same for the PTO switch. If you have a DT model, the forward-reverse lever will also beep when taken out of or put into neutral. Same for the PTO lever.

That said, if one of your switches ain't working right it won't beep. Easy.

this is really handy to test the adjustment of the HST neutral switch adjustment on the MX's

once you're done figgering out your problem via diag mode "A", turn the key off and remove it from the ignition while you are fixing the issue.

I could have mentioned this about 6 years ago but I was working for a dealer and the dealer said don't give away too much information. I felt like I had to honor the dealer's wishes.

normally when I hear this complaint, it's almost always the PTO lever not being totally off, which causes a no-crank situation. The lever down on the side of the transmission tends to get stiff over time. That lever on the transmission is spring loaded, and then there is a cable that runs up to the fender-mounted PTO lever that you move foward to turn the pto on, and Most people assume that if you pull the yellow lever toward you and just let go of it, it will return to neutral. But sometimes the lever doesn't go all the way back and you have to reach over there and manually push it back. If that is the case, what you want to do is grab a can of WD40 or liquid wrench or whatever you have for lubricant/penetrant, stuff the straw in between the RH fender and the rear floor cover, and drench the transmission-mounted PTO lever/spring assembly. Let it sit a while, then with the key off/engine off, work the pto lever back and forth a few times. It usually almost always frees right up.

 

[random]

normally when I hear this complaint, it's almost always the PTO lever not being totally off, which causes a no-crank situation.

We seem to have had very similar issues several times here since I signed up (to ask about the exact same problem...)

 

[ayak]

there's an easy way to diag safety switches on the L3301, L3901, and L4701 (maybe others but these I know for sure). Also MX5200, MX5800, MX6000.

On the dash you have two buttons. One is the park regen button the other is the DPF inhibit button. With the key turned OFF, Hold them down. THEN turn the key on. Once the key is on, let go of the two buttons, then push and hold them again until the letter "A" comes up in the panel where the digital hour meter normally is. Once you see the letter "A", hold down the inhibit button until you hear a beep (I think it's the inhibit....if it don't beep within about 3 seconds, turn the key off and start over, but use the park regen button this time). Once you hear a beep you are ready to test the switches. Mash the HST pedal down. You outta hear a beep every time the switch enters or exits neutral position. Hop up off the seat. You outta hear a beep each time the switch enters and exits the "run" position. Same for the PTO switch. If you have a DT model, the forward-reverse lever will also beep when taken out of or put into neutral. Same for the PTO lever.

That said, if one of your switches ain't working right it won't beep. Easy.

this is really handy to test the adjustment of the HST neutral switch adjustment on the MX's

once you're done figgering out your problem via diag mode "A", turn the key off and remove it from the ignition while you are fixing the issue.

I could have mentioned this about 6 years ago but I was working for a dealer and the dealer said don't give away too much information. I felt like I had to honor the dealer's wishes.

normally when I hear this complaint, it's almost always the PTO lever not being totally off, which causes a no-crank situation. The lever down on the side of the transmission tends to get stiff over time. That lever on the transmission is spring loaded, and then there is a cable that runs up to the fender-mounted PTO lever that you move foward to turn the pto on, and Most people assume that if you pull the yellow lever toward you and just let go of it, it will return to neutral. But sometimes the lever doesn't go all the way back and you have to reach over there and manually push it back. If that is the case, what you want to do is grab a can of WD40 or liquid wrench or whatever you have for lubricant/penetrant, stuff the straw in between the RH fender and the rear floor cover, and drench the transmission-mounted PTO lever/spring assembly. Let it sit a while, then with the key off/engine off, work the pto lever back and forth a few times. It usually almost always frees right up.

So with this post I’d like to not only bump this simple test back to the top, but also wanted to express my sincere gratitude to lugbolt for his many contributions.
I was headed out today and intermittently the engine would just try to cut out, especially if I would try to stomp the HST pedal as the hill increased.
So as I’m sitting out on this road (not stopped, but just barely creeping) as log trucks, state troopers, and school buses are driving around me, I’m wondering first if it’s an engine issue or a fuel starvation issue or the like.
But sheepfarmer (thanks to her as well) impressed upon those of with common rail engines, we need to be almost fanatical about keeping water away from our diesel—so between my stout Mr Funnel and a set schedule of fuel filter maintenance, along with a shot of Bio Kleen now and then, made me think a little harder—and remembered I had filed this one away for a future look.
The test itself worked flawlessly—and when I got to the seat switch itself, I also started wiggling on connectors and nearby wires, which made the test beeps go off like machine gun fire.
A closer inspection revealed the compromised wire shown in this pic.
So thanks again to Lugbolt and Sheepfarmer, (and Whitetiger as well) for their many contributions.