Third function blowing fuses

[Firedad646]

Good morning,
I'm interested to find out if anyone has experienced their third function valve repeatedly blowing fuses. I have inspected, and replaced most of the wiring including the fuse saddle and installed heat shrink soldered connections. I did open the housing and have a loose wire which I have repaired, however it has not fixed the problem. I see a pattern when opening or closing the valve and performing another function however it's not entirely these actions. Any suggestions?

 

[Redlands]

The only thing the electrical is hooked up to is the power supply, switch and the solenoid on the hydraulic line ? Sounds frustrating but its got to be a bare wire or bad switch or solenoid ?

 

[Firedad646]

Thanks for the reply. I figured when I found the loose wire in the electrical assembly I had found the culprit. However the problem has persisted. I'm leaning towards a bad solenoid because of the predictability of blowing the fuse. While using the third function if I am Ginger with it meaning distinct pauses between any functions with the tilting or curling it seems to be okay. However I'm a novice and it may simply be I'm not supposed to be doing those functions and using the third function valve simultaneously.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What size fuse is it using?

 

[Dave_eng]

Sometimes, in conjunction with a solenoid, designers will incorporate a diode in the circuit to bleed off high voltage spikes from the solenoid shutting off and the magnetic field it created collapsing.

This may or may not be part of your 3rd function but check for a diode which may now be shorted and blowing fuses.

Dave

 

[lugbolt]

Seen this a few times. Usually it's one of the wires up inside the joystick/button assembly that is shorting out against metal. Remove the button assembly (lot of them have a set screw or a pair of them) and inspect the wires inside of it. If you see one chafed, bet you fount your problem.

 

[Redlands]

Sometimes, in conjunction with a solenoid, designers will incorporate a diode in the circuit to bleed off high voltage spikes from the solenoid shutting off and the magnetic field it created collapsing.

This may or may not be part of your 3rd function but check for a diode which may now be shorted and blowing fuses.

Dave

Interesting information

 

[Larryus00x14b]

You may have bare wires but before I would go that route check the amp draw on that solenoid with your amp meter or better yet hook up your PICO or any scope and look at the wave pattern.as you energize sol .should remain pretty constant as voltage is applied.

 

[Nicfin36]

Mine started blowing fuses and I found the wire chafed through because the dealer tucked the wire under the hydraulic lines near the joystick. The weight of the lines causes the wire to chafe. The chafed spot is tee-tiny and very hard to see, but that is all it took.

Now, if yours is blowing after use instead of immediately, it could very well be the scenario Lugbolt described.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You do need to see the amps being drawn by the solenoid. Say it's 4 amps ( same as E-PTO clutches on rider mowers..... The mfr might toss in a 5 Amp fuse but really it needs a 7.5 amp. Solenoids draw a LOT of amps for a short time, then go 'steady state' ( less current). Repeated, rapid use sends a series of high energy pulses through the fuse, overheats it, ...poof...
The 'made in China' ATC fuses don't survive as well as made in USA ones either.

Jay

 

[Firedad646]

10amp
This is the size illustrated in the third function manual...
(thanks for the reply)

 

[Firedad646]

Thanks Dave,
Good idea...I have been inside the readily accessible wiring area of the solenoid and do not see a diode, but have not gone further. The valve is brand new and the dealer has stated they will repair it so I did not want to "go too far". Thanks for the reply..

 

[Firedad646]

Great tip,
I have inspected and tested for continuity and shorting w/ a multi-meter and did not find anything. The tractor is brand new and and third function valve was installed at the dealer. I was not very impressed w/ the installation job. There was a lot of "extra" wire and was not run in a professional manner. Although I did not find any shorts or "through and through" wire damage..the wire was pinched tight and likely damaged. This is still a possible cause. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Firedad646]

Thanks Larry,
I am interested in performing this test, however I am not entirely sure how to do it. Correct me if I am wrong I am basically checking to see if current (I) is being drawn into the solenoid when not being activated? I should be able to do this with a standard AMP meter? yes? I have noticed the solenoid is extremely warm even though it may not be in use.

Thanks for the reply...

 

[Firedad646]

What size fuse is it using?

10amp...per the manual. This is also the original size...

 

[Nicfin36]

If it is under warranty, I'd call the dealer. If I would not have found my problem relatively quickly, that is what I would have done.

 

[Firedad646]

You do need to see the amps being drawn by the solenoid. Say it's 4 amps ( same as E-PTO clutches on rider mowers..... The mfr might toss in a 5 Amp fuse but really it needs a 7.5 amp. Solenoids draw a LOT of amps for a short time, then go 'steady state' ( less current). Repeated, rapid use sends a series of high energy pulses through the fuse, overheats it, ...poof...
The 'made in China' ATC fuses don't survive as well as made in USA ones either.

Jay

Great advice, Thanks Jay...Do you think I would be able to see these amps with a standard multi-meter (with the "amp" clamp)?