Recommendation for Counter Weight

[wendol]

Recommendation for Counter Weight - Option 1 or 2 ???

I have a project coming up real soon and need a counter weight for my L3800 (tires are not filled).

My two options at this point are:
6' HD box blade (with suitcase weights added?...where to place them?)
........or.......
3 pt dirt scoop with suitcase weights placed in the scoop.

Your thoughts/suggestion are certainly appreciated.

 

[Dave_eng]

You are trying to achieve two different types of stability.

Fore and aft and side to side.

Any significant rear weight achieves the fore and aft stability such as to counter act the lifting force of a loader.

Side to side stability requires that the additional rear weight is carried low to the ground and certainly below the height of the rear axle.

Remember the front axle adds no stability side to side as it pivots so the rear axle has to do all this function.

The spec's for your tractor's 3 pt hitch are:

Rear lift (at ends): 1,998 lbs [906 kg]
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 1,435 lbs [650 kg]

I suggest a weight of approximately 900 to 1,000 lbs.

Dave

 

[vic gerbasi]

tractor supply has a " big bale mover" fits on 3ph custom make a floor expanded metal put as much weight- in barrels- as you want to this will be able to carry/ or offset more weight than the loader can lift it works for me with limited cost and lots of flexibility

 

[Creature Meadow]

For me what worked best was I built a carryall, about 200 bucks in it and it is serving me well.

I took 5-gallon buckets and filled them with pieces of bricks and cinder blocks that I found laying around farm. Finished filling in the spaces with cement and then placed lids on them. I have 6 that weigh in about 80#'s each. The carryall about 200 pounds and I attached 2 50# weights under it. Total weight around 830#'s. I can always add more buckets if needed at little cost. Plenty of busted bricks and blocks around and concrete about $4 bucks a bag for 80#'s.

The beauty of it is when ballast is not needed I take the buckets off and use it to haul everything from garden veggies to firewood, kids in parades and the list goes on.

Total cost about $200 bucks and uses unlimited.

Search my posts and you can see the details if interested.

Jay

 

[Lencho]

More details on the project would help. I like the box blade as it is useful moving dirt. Unless you need to keep everything compact, in that case a ballast box can pack lots of weight into a smaller package.

 

[twomany]

I'm using a standard spreader bar and suitcase weights.

A very clean set up, and easy to break down or add to.

I've got a 650# concrete block with hitch fittings, but what a pain to R&R.

 

[wendol]

More details on the project would help. I like the box blade as it is useful moving dirt. Unless you need to keep everything compact, in that case a ballast box can pack lots of weight into a smaller package.

Sorry, I should have provided more info in my original post.....

Considering I already have the two items mentioned:
box blade with suitcase weights available, and
dirt scoop also with suitecase weights available
which option would provide the best counter weight when using the FEL especially over some uneven terrain.

 

[bcp]

Weights in the dirt scoop would probably be lower for better stability.

Bruce

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The box blade with the suitcase weights off the rear of it are going to give you the most weight distribution to the rear of the tractor.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Hmm...since you've got a box blade WHY do you have 'uneven terrain' ?

If the job entails several hauls or runs, it always better to smooooooth out the path or 'road' before hauling any heavy weight. Not only can the travel time be reduced, there's a LOT less stress on both tractor and operator.