Product Review - Pioneer (John Deere) RC2048 Rotary Cutter

NoJacketRequired

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B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
May 25, 2016
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Ottawa, Ontario
Last winter I purchased a used Pioneer (John Deere) RC2048 rotary cutter (bush hog) to run behind the B7510s.

The circumstances surrounding the purchase (blinding snowstorm that arrived as I pulled into the vendor's lane) prevented a thorough pre-buy inspection. I know, caveat emptor. Nonetheless, I figured a rotary cutter that still had all its paint, including on its underside, had seen little use and should have many years of life left in it.

This particular unit has a slip clutch and is equipped with safety chains front and rear as well as the laminated solid rubber rear wheel, thus making it the "top of the line" for this model.

When I recently got around to preparing the rotary cutter for field work I got a bit of a surprise. The rear wheel was sloppy on its axle. Disassembly revealed that one of the two bushings that provide the bearing surface between the axle and wheel was gone. I mean completely GONE, like it had never been there. There was no trace of it whatsoever. Fortunately the wheel itself didn't appear to have taken any damage.

I ordered new axle bushings and at the same time asked whether the rear wheel pivot point had bushings since this also appeared to be a little loose. Sure enough, the dealer was able to order two bags of two bushings each, a pair for the axle and a pair for the pivot. A HUNDRED BUCKS LATER :eek: I had them in hand (note: one bushing pair was made in China, the other in India). The new axle bushing pressed in quite nicely. A thorough examination of the pivot point revealed that this is just a piece of steel tube welded up with no bushings inside it and not enough wall thickness in the steel tube to ever permit bushings to be used. I have little hope this pivot will provide long-term durability. It takes a beating back there and should have bushings that can be replaced as wear items. I don't know where the J-D dealership found the part number for the bushings they sold me, because there clearly is no means to install them in this cutter. They'll be going back to the dealer later today.

That fairly thin tube wall in the pivot mount also means Pioneer has compromised the ability to install a grease fitting in the tube. They could have welded a short piece of pipe onto the tube in order to make a place to install a standard grease fitting. Instead they opted to tap the tube wall and thread in an incredibly short grease fitting. It pulled out the first time I greased it. I was not impressed.

Speaking of grease... the PTO shaft universal joints cannot be greased with the PTO shaft attached to the tractor. The plastic safety shields on the shaft and gearbox prevent getting a gun on the grease nipple. One has to disconnect the shaft and angle it fully to the left side of the machine in order to get a grease gun on the nipple through the factory-made hole in the plastic safety shield. Also note the large spring ball detent ring that holds the PTO shaft on the tractor end is quite large, making it a challenge to get the shaft installed within the confines of the PTO shaft guard on the Kubota B7510.

The blades on this rotary cutter are clearly designed and intended for use in grass (I don't know if other styles of blades are available). They are not hugely thick "brush busting clubs" but rather are relatively thin with up-turned rear edges to create "lift" to do a better job of cutting grass. They do indeed perform fairly well on grass which is likely how most folks will use this model of cutter. I would not use them for cutting up larger brush or in stony ground as they will not last. The deck has troubles clearing itself of grass cuttings if one is cutting hay-length material. So far I've cut about 1.5 acres of hay that was at full height - many times I had to back up to chop up a big wad of hay that had balled up under the machine. I've also cut about 1.5 acres of "second cut" hay, stuff that was in the 8-10" height range. The cutter did a much better job on this material. It will cut down very close to the ground, perhaps to 2" or so. The finish is quite good if one moves at a pace that allows the machine to actually cut rather than just push the grass down. It will never be a true "mowing deck" in terms of cut quality but it's cut quality is certainly better than any of the rotary cutters I've previously used.

The cutter runs very smoothly and is quiet. The rear wheel can be adjusted to support multiple cutting heights. The front and rear safety chains work well. The front skid shoes would be much more functional if they were twice as wide as they are; the front corner will dig into uneven soil quite readily. When this happens we get to see the "tip up" feature of the 3 pt hitch in action and it does work very well.

All in all, this is a decent cutter, but certainly not worthy of the John Deere name, especially at the premium price J-D wants for a new unit. For that kind of money one would be better off getting a truly heavy-duty unit from Buhler or similar. The Pioneer RC2048 cuts well enough and is a good size pairing for the B7510's 21 engine HP. It is not a heavy-duty machine suitable for cutting heavy brush.

I hope this info proves useful to forum members who might be shopping for a rotary cutter.
 

SDT

Well-known member

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multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
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Last winter I purchased a used Pioneer (John Deere) RC2048 rotary cutter (bush hog) to run behind the B7510s.

The circumstances surrounding the purchase (blinding snowstorm that arrived as I pulled into the vendor's lane) prevented a thorough pre-buy inspection. I know, caveat emptor. Nonetheless, I figured a rotary cutter that still had all its paint, including on its underside, had seen little use and should have many years of life left in it.

This particular unit has a slip clutch and is equipped with safety chains front and rear as well as the laminated solid rubber rear wheel, thus making it the "top of the line" for this model.

When I recently got around to preparing the rotary cutter for field work I got a bit of a surprise. The rear wheel was sloppy on its axle. Disassembly revealed that one of the two bushings that provide the bearing surface between the axle and wheel was gone. I mean completely GONE, like it had never been there. There was no trace of it whatsoever. Fortunately the wheel itself didn't appear to have taken any damage.

I ordered new axle bushings and at the same time asked whether the rear wheel pivot point had bushings since this also appeared to be a little loose. Sure enough, the dealer was able to order two bags of two bushings each, a pair for the axle and a pair for the pivot. A HUNDRED BUCKS LATER :eek: I had them in hand (note: one bushing pair was made in China, the other in India). The new axle bushing pressed in quite nicely. A thorough examination of the pivot point revealed that this is just a piece of steel tube welded up with no bushings inside it and not enough wall thickness in the steel tube to ever permit bushings to be used. I have little hope this pivot will provide long-term durability. It takes a beating back there and should have bushings that can be replaced as wear items. I don't know where the J-D dealership found the part number for the bushings they sold me, because there clearly is no means to install them in this cutter. They'll be going back to the dealer later today.

That fairly thin tube wall in the pivot mount also means Pioneer has compromised the ability to install a grease fitting in the tube. They could have welded a short piece of pipe onto the tube in order to make a place to install a standard grease fitting. Instead they opted to tap the tube wall and thread in an incredibly short grease fitting. It pulled out the first time I greased it. I was not impressed.

Speaking of grease... the PTO shaft universal joints cannot be greased with the PTO shaft attached to the tractor. The plastic safety shields on the shaft and gearbox prevent getting a gun on the grease nipple. One has to disconnect the shaft and angle it fully to the left side of the machine in order to get a grease gun on the nipple through the factory-made hole in the plastic safety shield. Also note the large spring ball detent ring that holds the PTO shaft on the tractor end is quite large, making it a challenge to get the shaft installed within the confines of the PTO shaft guard on the Kubota B7510.

The blades on this rotary cutter are clearly designed and intended for use in grass (I don't know if other styles of blades are available). They are not hugely thick "brush busting clubs" but rather are relatively thin with up-turned rear edges to create "lift" to do a better job of cutting grass. They do indeed perform fairly well on grass which is likely how most folks will use this model of cutter. I would not use them for cutting up larger brush or in stony ground as they will not last. The deck has troubles clearing itself of grass cuttings if one is cutting hay-length material. So far I've cut about 1.5 acres of hay that was at full height - many times I had to back up to chop up a big wad of hay that had balled up under the machine. I've also cut about 1.5 acres of "second cut" hay, stuff that was in the 8-10" height range. The cutter did a much better job on this material. It will cut down very close to the ground, perhaps to 2" or so. The finish is quite good if one moves at a pace that allows the machine to actually cut rather than just push the grass down. It will never be a true "mowing deck" in terms of cut quality but it's cut quality is certainly better than any of the rotary cutters I've previously used.

The cutter runs very smoothly and is quiet. The rear wheel can be adjusted to support multiple cutting heights. The front and rear safety chains work well. The front skid shoes would be much more functional if they were twice as wide as they are; the front corner will dig into uneven soil quite readily. When this happens we get to see the "tip up" feature of the 3 pt hitch in action and it does work very well.

All in all, this is a decent cutter, but certainly not worthy of the John Deere name, especially at the premium price J-D wants for a new unit. For that kind of money one would be better off getting a truly heavy-duty unit from Buhler or similar. The Pioneer RC2048 cuts well enough and is a good size pairing for the B7510's 21 engine HP. It is not a heavy-duty machine suitable for cutting heavy brush.

I hope this info proves useful to forum members who might be shopping for a rotary cutter.
I never consider any rotary cutter that does not have a roller bearing tail wheel. Tail wheels with bushings are a continual source of trouble and are indicative of less than premium cutters.

I know of no rotary cutters that have bushings in the tail wheel caster pivot but all have grease zerks. Might want to check yours to see if it is broken off or missing.

I own a Frontier RC2060, 60" deck. The Frontier line is JDs lower cost line, certainly not a HD unit. My RC2060 does have a roller bearing tail wheel, slip clutch, and originally had F & R chains. I kept the rear chains but replaced the front chains with belt shielding to reduce the amount of debris thrown onto the back of the tractor.

I consider my RC2060 to be a light/medium duty cutter. It is certainly not up to the standards of my Woods BB720X and BB840X. Still, it is not too heavy and is a decent match for my B3350.

SDT
 
Last edited:

SidecarFlip

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Oct 28, 2018
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Frontier and Pioneer are JD's value line stuff. Still costly as all JD green stuff is. Should have just bought a Landpride (Great Plains). My 96" is festooned with grease fittings.
 

NoJacketRequired

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B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
May 25, 2016
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Ottawa, Ontario
I know of no rotary cutters that have bushings in the tail wheel caster pivot but all have grease zerks. Might want to check yours to see if it is broken off or missing.
SDT
In my post above you'll see the comment where I mention the grease zerk actually pulled out of the pivot mount the first time I greased it. This happened because they installed a grease zerk with only two full threads on its threaded shank. Had they welded a "nut" or something similar onto the pivot housing they would have been able to use a full-length grease zerk that would not pull out. Likewise, it would have helped if they had installed a zerk with a hex base on it rather than a smooth round base. It's hard to install a zerk with pliers, and that is about the only tool that will work with a smooth round zerk.

I agree with you entirely - this definitely is not a high-quality, heavy-duty machine, but you wouldn't know it from the price! :)
 

SDT

Well-known member

Equipment
multiple and various
Apr 15, 2018
3,256
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SE, IN
In my post above you'll see the comment where I mention the grease zerk actually pulled out of the pivot mount the first time I greased it. This happened because they installed a grease zerk with only two full threads on its threaded shank. Had they welded a "nut" or something similar onto the pivot housing they would have been able to use a full-length grease zerk that would not pull out. Likewise, it would have helped if they had installed a zerk with a hex base on it rather than a smooth round base. It's hard to install a zerk with pliers, and that is about the only tool that will work with a smooth round zerk.

I agree with you entirely - this definitely is not a high-quality, heavy-duty machine, but you wouldn't know it from the price! :)
Tap the hole and install a threaded zerk with hex flange.

Sounds like the OEM zerk was a drive in unit.

SDT
 

NoJacketRequired

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Equipment
B7510 & LA302 FEL & B2782 blower, B7510 & B2781 blower, B2410 & B2550 blower
May 25, 2016
432
68
28
Ottawa, Ontario
Tap the hole and install a threaded zerk with hex flange.

Sounds like the OEM zerk was a drive in unit.

SDT
The original zerk was threaded and the hole is tapped, but it's in relatively thin-wall tube so there is minimal ability to get thread engagement. I've installed a standard hex-base zerk and it seems to be holding, for now. The manufacturer should have welded a boss on the pivot housing such that a regular zerk could be used with full thread engagement. Pioneer simply cheaped out in this aspect of the build.