Advice on Diesel / Bio Diesel

Tornado

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As Ive stated recently in other threads on these boards Im a new L2501 owner. This is my first time personally owning a diesel engine machine, so I have never paid a lot of attention to diesel fuel pumps at gas stations or the different types of diesel. Since I got my L2501 just a month or so ago, I've been starting to really try and pay attention to the gas pumps at various stations. At just 10 hours on the machine Im only just now starting to get near that "E" on the fuel gauge for the first time. The Fuel in the tractor currently was wat the dealer put in when I bought it. It is clearly ag diesel as it is red.

What I am wanting advice on is what diesel to buy and where. Many pumps I notice have the little "Biodiesel Blend" sticker on the pump. I was under the impression I wanted to avoid biodiesel entirely, but I dont know if non biodiesel actually exists? Many seem to suggest that all diesel these days at the pumps has some bio blend. Then I came across this from Kubota: http://www.kubotaengine.com/support/fuel-and-motor-oil/biodiesel-statement

They are clearly suggesting that they dont recommend any fuel over B5, and dont even like that. Most pumps however have stickers that say the bio blend is between 5 and 20. I have no way to test every diesel pump at every station around my house to find the best blend, so Im just stumped on where to go get fuel. I want to buy the best. Id like to learn that there is non bio blend diesel, just straight Ultra Low Sulfur diesel with no bio, but I am not sure if that exists or where I would find it. Im also curious if more diesel options would be available at the gas pumps in the back of truck stops, where 18 wheeler's fuel up - I've never tried to go back there to see. Ive talked to others who own tractors here and they just go get whatever is at the normal diesel pump next to the gas pumps - most of which stats 5 to 20% biodiesel blend. Im a little leary of doing that given kubota's statement, and what Ive read about biodiesel. With gasoline we had non ethanol gas that you can find at certain stations, but you had to kinda really look for it - is non biodiesel like this? Hoping to get some good advice on this.
 
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Bmyers

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Yes, you will have to call around and see who sells what in your area. In addition, not all of them know what they sell.

I always treat my fuel just to insure that I'm doing everything I can to protect my fuel system.
 

Tornado

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Yes, you will have to call around and see who sells what in your area. In addition, not all of them know what they sell.

I always treat my fuel just to insure that I'm doing everything I can to protect my fuel system.
Does that mean that non bio-diesel is a thing then? I have seen some diesel pumps that had no sticker about it being a bio diesel blend. I think proper labeling at the pumps is required by law, but I wish I knew for sure, i hate to trust the absence of a sticker. The girl behind the counter in the store isnt going to know if I asked her. I wish there was a way to find this out better. With gasoline there are good websites and apps you can download that will actually show you where you could find non-ethanol fuel, and those non ethanol pumps would often be visibly advertised at the pump with big signs or stickers and big bold letters. This diesel stuff seems much more unknown and hard to find out.
 

Bmyers

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In some states yes. In my state, it is few and far between because of State laws.

You are correct about most not having any idea what is sold, so that is why I treat all my fuels.

For our area, there are some farm stores that sell non-biodiesel, but they are even becoming few.
 

Tornado

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If 90% of fuel pumps (as seems to be the case in the ones Ive been checking around me) have stickers indicating biodiesel blends of 5-20%, and kubota is saying they recommend nothing over 5% biodiesel in their engines, and even suggesting 5% isnt ideal, then what is the consumer to really do? Im trying to really do my homework here before even my first fill up of new diesel. Most people around here with tractors seem to just use whats at the pump and when I speak to them about this issue the seem a little clueless about what I am trying to get at - as if diesel is just diesel, so they use whatever. I dont want to do that if there is actually better options to be found. Thanks for your replies Bmyers, I look forward to what other experienced tractor users can suggest as well.
 

johnjk

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Now you have me wondering. I need to fill up my containers before the Ohio fuel tax increase hits on July 1. I buy at a local Marathon station and the only sticker they have on the pump is low sulfur fuel. Been trying to find where I can get off-road diesel in my area but the one station listed does not carry it. Now I'll be looking to see the percentage of bio in Marathon's fuels. Not many choices here. Either Speedway or Marathon. Bmyers, what type of treatment do you add to your fuel?
 

sheepfarmer

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It is dependent on state laws as to what must be posted on the pump and what may or may not be sold as to the blend. Try looking on your state's website, and then also find out from your local station who their supplier is, and contact them.

The biggest problem with biodiesel is that it either attracts water, or with water is even tastier to the sludge forming bacteria than regular diesel. So if you are stuck with unknown amounts of biodiesel put in a biocide to keep down any bacterial overgrowth. It is cheap insurance.
 

Bmyers

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Now you have me wondering. I need to fill up my containers before the Ohio fuel tax increase hits on July 1. I buy at a local Marathon station and the only sticker they have on the pump is low sulfur fuel. Been trying to find where I can get off-road diesel in my area but the one station listed does not carry it. Now I'll be looking to see the percentage of bio in Marathon's fuels. Not many choices here. Either Speedway or Marathon. Bmyers, what type of treatment do you add to your fuel?
This is what I use:

Sta-Bil 22254 Diesel Formula Fuel Stabilizer and Performance Improver - 32 oz.

The reason:

STA-BIL Diesel Formula Fuel Stabilizer is a diesel additive that keeps fuel fresh for quick, easy starts and maximized for engine performance. Designed for use with all diesel engines, and all diesel fuels, Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer - Diesel formula prevents sludge and sediment formation, cleans and lubricates fuel injectors to improve performance and helps remove water that microbes and algae require for growth. It is safe to use and recommended for use at every fill up.

Plus, I have had good luck with the Stabilizer product for gas engines, so I thought I would give their diesel version a try. When winter approaches, I may switch to a winterize treatment additive, but I need to do some more research before I change. The product i'm using may meet all my needs. I just dropped the manufacture an email to find out.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Because of the emissions laws getting stricter, so has the Bio fuel standards, no it's not perfect but it's much better than it used to be.

Buy whatever fuel you can find from a place that sell alot of it (less chance of water contamination), off road (red dyed fuel) is the same as their on road non dyed fuel, but if your not in an AG or logging area, it's not going to have the turnover as the road fuel will have.

Go to an auto parts or ag store and buy a large bottle of Diesel Biocide / algaecide treatment, and a Large bottle of Stanadyne or some other cetane booster / fuel treatment.
Add those to any stored or new fuel you use in the tractor.

FYI: Your tractor is all mechanical fuel injection, same exact system they have been using for 40 plus years, your not going to have a problem with the fuel!
 
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Bmyers

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I received a response back from GoldEagle (manufacture of the Sta-Bil and they recommended for tractor use in both summer and winter the Sta-Bil Diesel All Season. It has all the qualities of the Sta-Bil Diesel plus it has anti-gel protection to -40 and it has the Cetane that others have mentioned in this topic.

So, I will be switching over to that.
 

Tornado

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Because of the emissions laws getting stricter, so has the Bio fuel standards, no it's not perfect but it's much better than it used to be.

Buy whatever fuel you can find from a place that sell alot of it (less chance of water contamination), off road (red dyed fuel) is the same as their on road non dyed fuel, but if your not in an AG or logging area, it's not going to have the turnover as the road fuel will have.

Go to an auto parts or ag store and buy a large bottle of Diesel Biocide / algaecide treatment, and a Large bottle of Stanadyne or some other cetane booster / fuel treatment.
Add those to any stored or new fuel you use in the tractor.

FYI: Your tractor is all mechanical fuel injection, same exact system they have been using for 40 plus years, your not going to have a problem with the fuel!
Thanks for that Wolfman, I do have the Stanadyne product. One of the first things I did after I got the tractor home was look for a good diesel additive just to boost cetane, and help keep injectors clean, reduce water etc etc, and the Stanadyne product came up as a top pick everywhere I looked. The Stanadyne does not have any type of anti bio formation though, so I dont think it will prevent this diesel sludge from growing. I see here you suggest using a biocide in conjuction with the Stanadyne, so I guess there is no issues or problems to consider when combining these two products. Is there a better product out there that does it ALL in one bottle?
 

Tornado

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Anyone have any experience with this product? https://www.amazon.com/Biobor-JF-Di...el+biocide&qid=1561125290&s=automotive&sr=1-8

Its a small 8oz. bottle which suits me best given I will go through it VERY slowly. The dosage is so small though I dont know how Im going to get it perfectly accurate without like a Injection needle or something lol. 1oz. for 40 gallons. I use a 5 gallon diesel can. So I will need to add 0.125oz of product per 5 gallons. I looked at the biokleen that everyone talks about but it comes in a larger 16oz. bottle and is like $40. This stuff will go bad on the shelf before I can use it all at this dosage rate.
 

B737

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Its a small 8oz. bottle which suits me best given I will go through it VERY slowly. The dosage is so small though I dont know how Im going to get it perfectly accurate without like a Injection needle or something lol. 1oz. for 40 gallons. I use a 5 gallon diesel can. So I will need to add 0.125oz of product per 5 gallons. I looked at the biokleen that everyone talks about but it comes in a larger 16oz. bottle and is like $40. This stuff will go bad on the shelf before I can use it all at this dosage rate.
I was thinking the same thing. how the heck to measure 3.5 milliliters to dump into the can? and is that really effective?
 

Gillie Dog

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The dosage is so small though I dont know how Im going to get it perfectly accurate without like a Injection needle or something
I get syringe bodies from a cousin who is diabetic for this. Have half a dozen on shelf in shop. No needle, just the body. You can buy dosing syringes on line also.

Rite Aid drug store in town has 10ml "oral care syringe/baby care" for $1.99.

GD
 
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Tornado

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I was thinking the same thing. how the heck to measure 3.5 milliliters to dump into the can? and is that really effective?
I dont question its effectiveness really as Ive seen other chemicals in super small doses serve their purpose (non fuel related stuff) But to measure this and get it right you would really want to use a syringe I think. Pour it into a cap or small cup, then draw up through the syringe the right amount, then just squirt it into the tank.
 

Tornado

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I get syringe bodies from a cousin who is diabetic for this. Have half a dozen on shelf in shop. No needle, just the body. You can buy dosing syringes on line also.

Rite Aid drug store in town has 10ml "oral care syringe/baby care" for $1.99.

GD
My wife is a cardiac ICU RN, I wont have any issue with syringe's :D
 

Tornado

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SidecarFlip

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Ido know one thing for certain, the Startron stuff TSC sells is crap.