I'm looking at building a bolt on bracket for a forward and rear facing LED light bar that bolts to the rops on my new B2601. Has anyone here made bracket that bolts on to the rops? If so, can I see what you did? Thanks in advance!
Anyone made an LED light bar holder?
- Thread starter Skinny22
- Start date
What ever you do, don't drill holes in the ROPS. Use 'U' bolts to secure it. Drilling holes in the roll over protective structure weakens it and if you do roll the tractor it could fail.
I think if you look at it, you'll find a sticker on it that alludes to that fact
I think if you look at it, you'll find a sticker on it that alludes to that fact
North Idaho Wolfman
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I must type in some bad search suggestions, but I will keep looking!Just search the site, several have done it.
I just got a roll of electrical tape and put a couple wraps on the ROPS where the brackets mount, for grip. Then cranked down a metal hose clamp on each base and it holds a light bar perfectly. If I need to change or move for any reason, it could be done in 2 minutes. You can get light bars with wiring and switches for under $30. on line now.
I have had this 20” light for a few years and have gone thru trees, branches etc, no problems what so ever. I just tie wrapped the wiring loom inside the ROPS too
Funny, I was just fixin to post about this.
I made an LED light bar and attached it with U bolts from Lowe’s, cost about $2.50 each. Fit perfectly around the ROPS.
I initially used aluminum angle, but it would vibrate a bit, so I swapped it out for a steel 1.5” angle. That was about $15. I bought a pair of 12” LEDS on eBay for $22, and a pre made wiring harness for another $9.
I had a piece of angle aluminum that I mounted to the warning triangle mount and placed the ON/OFF switch and relay there.
I just used tie wraps to bundle up the excess wiring and ran the POS and NEG up to the battery inside of conduit and used a set of battery clamps so that I can disconnect when not in use.
I mounted both sets on the horizontal, but may move the light pointed rearward to the vertical so I can point the light down farther to get more light on the 3 point area.
I made an LED light bar and attached it with U bolts from Lowe’s, cost about $2.50 each. Fit perfectly around the ROPS.
I initially used aluminum angle, but it would vibrate a bit, so I swapped it out for a steel 1.5” angle. That was about $15. I bought a pair of 12” LEDS on eBay for $22, and a pre made wiring harness for another $9.
I had a piece of angle aluminum that I mounted to the warning triangle mount and placed the ON/OFF switch and relay there.
I just used tie wraps to bundle up the excess wiring and ran the POS and NEG up to the battery inside of conduit and used a set of battery clamps so that I can disconnect when not in use.
I mounted both sets on the horizontal, but may move the light pointed rearward to the vertical so I can point the light down farther to get more light on the 3 point area.
Attachments
My cab had angle iron mounts for the lights. I mounted a T-slot aluminum rail between the mounts and all the lights are connected to that T-slot rail. I like using T-slot rails because they provide a lot more mounting and adjustment options.
Sorry I dont have any closeup pictures handy but if you zoom in on the title image on my blog page you can just make it out.
http://divergentstuff.ca/index.php/2017/10/19/laurin-eclipse-cab-install-for-my-kubota-m59/
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