Dilemma

bearbait

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
4,058
834
113
New Glasgow Canada
Dilemma, I just started doing the bearings on my boat trailer, just a small trailer and a 16 foot open boat that I've had for years...joked about it for a long time that it's the only thing that I've kept for all these years besides my wife. Anywho I've replaced a lot of bearings in many things but this one is fighting back. There is no way I can catch an edge on the race in order to knock it out. So my question is, is there a way to knock them out that I'm missing or for the amount of time this trailer see's the road, maybe 100 miles or so in a year do I just leave the races in and just replace the bearings. If I had a dermel with a good bit I'd just make a couple notches so I have something to grab. I guess I'm just being stubborn because I've never let anyone else work on my stuff but I guess I already know the answer.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,565
3,325
113
SW Pa
MHO if it aint broke dont fix it.. if they feel good pack the snot out of them or pick up a pair of bearing bras and pump them full
 

bearbait

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
4,058
834
113
New Glasgow Canada
MHO if it aint broke dont fix it.. if they feel good pack the snot out of them or pick up a pair of bearing bras and pump them full
I like the way you think my friend. I spent some time taking a machinist course and the races fell good, no rough spots or burs so for the amount of time it see's the road I thing I'm just gonna repack the new bearings and let it go at that. Now if the striper fishing is good where I'm planning on going only 20 minutes away I'll regroup and do the job right, only 50 bucks for both sides, thanks my friend.
 

hope to float

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450
Feb 18, 2018
474
61
28
Ireland
Dilemma, I just started doing the bearings on my boat trailer, just a small trailer and a 16 foot open boat that I've had for years...joked about it for a long time that it's the only thing that I've kept for all these years besides my wife. Anywho I've replaced a lot of bearings in many things but this one is fighting back. There is no way I can catch an edge on the race in order to knock it out. So my question is, is there a way to knock them out that I'm missing or for the amount of time this trailer see's the road, maybe 100 miles or so in a year do I just leave the races in and just replace the bearings. If I had a dermel with a good bit I'd just make a couple notches so I have something to grab. I guess I'm just being stubborn because I've never let anyone else work on my stuff but I guess I already know the answer.
Only way I have found is the old cold chisel and lump hammer. Wear eye protection
 

bearbait

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
4,058
834
113
New Glasgow Canada
I didn't get them out yet skeets, I had friends drop in for a couple which gave me a little time to think. Tomorrow I'm gonna try a bead of weld on each side of the race so I have something to grab on to and knock that bitch out of there. If that doesn't work I'll go get a carbide bit and cut a notch and get'er done. Then again I may wake up in the morning' and grease the snot out of it. Either way I can guarantee we'll be on the lake fishing.
 

Yooper

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
3901 LA525
May 31, 2015
1,529
529
113
NE Wisconsin
With the modern machining practices, I would have no problem with just replacing the bearings and not the race. If you want to set your mind at ease, you can blue or Sharpie the race and spin the bearing in it to check the contact surface. That would be contingent on the race not being pitted or discolored from heat of course.

What I do whenever working with wheel bearings is to take it for a short test drive and then feel the hub for heat. If hot, back it off a notch and retest. Heat is the enemy for bearings.
 

G.rid

Member

Equipment
L48 tlb, ssqa forks, manual thumb for hoe
Aug 19, 2016
207
17
18
Oxford, NS, Canada
Bearbait, you're about to stumble across the answer for a different reason.
I was shown that trick a few years ago, it's almost too easy. As long as you don't strike the ark in front of the race it will almost fall out on it's own. Weld a bead in 2-3 places on the inside of the race itself, let it cool a minute or so, than tap it out. I had a swing arm bearing in a Honda ATV that I bought a internal bearing puller for, after bending and breaking the puller, I tried the weld trick. I let it cool completely then pulled it out with my fingers!
 

bearbait

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3560, 64" snowblower, 72" back blade
Dec 9, 2011
4,058
834
113
New Glasgow Canada
Thanks for the help guys, looks like I'll have to finish tomorrow because they gave me 2 different size bearings. The races that are in it don't look bad at all and I can't feel any ridges so I'll probably just leave good enough alone this time. Thanks again.
 

Ramos

New member

Equipment
1870-1, LA203A, RCK54
Feb 25, 2016
463
3
0
Sherman County, Oregon
As already mentioned, run a skip bead around the working surface of the race. As it cools, the bead will contract and reduce the diameter of the race. Removal should be a piece of cake after that.
 

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,565
3,325
113
SW Pa
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHH NO BIG BOY you aint gettin off that easy :D