B2320-Dash and Headlight Fuse Blowing

[Crich]

2009 B2320 with a random fuse problem. Totally at random , the 10 A headlight and dash fuse will blow. The tractor will not start when the fuse blows.

It first started happening last summer and seemed to be related to the headlight switch. Fuse would blow instantly if the headlight switch was turned on.

The problem went away for a few months. This week I pulled the dash apart, traced all the wiring and couldn't find any chafing or pinched wires. Couldn't replicate the problem, all was working well so I put it all back together.

Today the fuses started blowing again !!

Any ideas?

 

[lugbolt]

Ok so let's look at this from a "mechanical" point of view.

Electricity flows from the battery, to the slow blow fuse by the starter, then through the rest of the systems, which are all different circuits protected by fuses. A fuse is a device that protects the wiring in the case of an overload. The overload can be a failed component, but more often than not, a short circuit. Short circuit is usually what happens when a wire's insulation becomes chafed or cut, allowing the current-carrying conductor to make contact with ground. When this happens, the current in the wire takes the path of least resistance, usually to ground, which causes the amperage in the circuit to rise. The rise in amperage causes the fuse element to burn, therefore cutting current off to that circuit.

So, what I'm saying is...look at your wiring really well. You'll likely find a cut or chafed wire somewhere. Rat damage has been all too common as of lately in this area. Seems like that's all I've done for the last 2 months, fixing rat damaged wiring; or whatever it is that builds small nests and eats wiring. Squirrels? Moles? Mice? Rats? Nutria? Dunno.

 

[whitetiger]

On a B series, I usually find the problem in the tail light wiring. They are powered as long as the head lights are on.

 

[OrangeJoe]

Lugbolt is correct. I'm a master electrician (for what its worth) and lots of electronics experience. It is very likely a momentary dead-short. Check the wires running to the rear and remove the light lenses and bulbs. See that the socket and bulbs are clean and the spring-loaded sockets look and feels ok. If that doesn't help I would start disconnecting stuff to try to isolate the "bad" wire and area to look. If the disconnected wire needs power for the tractor to run temporarily clip in a slightly smaller fuse for that wire. If the larger fuse blows you'll know it is not that wire. Try another branch wire.

 

[Dave_eng]

This is the fuse description I find for your tractor

In your initial post you indicated one particular fuse was blowing. More recently you said "fuses" blowing. Is it just the same fuse #4 all the time?

You state the tractor wont start when the fuse blows. Does the engine crank?

There is a #5 fuse shown for the work lights. The work light(s) are listed as options. Are these controlled by your headlight switch or another switch?

On your tractor are the "work lights" & the head lights on the same fuse?

Dave

 

[Dave_eng]

Since my previous post I now have access to tech info on your B2320 tractor. This material greatly increases the likelihood of pointing you towards a solution

Is this the switch that triggers fuse blowing?

The combination switch has several positions including operating the turn signals as I interpret this circuit diagram.

The switch has 3 positions.

In which position does the fuse blowing occur?

Could you please also answer my questions in my earlier post.

Dave

 

[Crich]

Since my previous post I now have access to tech info on your B2320 tractor. This material greatly increases the likelihood of pointing you towards a solution

Is this the switch that triggers fuse blowing?

The combination switch has several positions including operating the turn signals as I interpret this circuit diagram.

The switch has 3 positions.

In which position does the fuse blowing occur?

Could you please also answer my questions in my earlier post.

Dave

It is the #4 fuse that blows. The switch you refer to is the correct one. The #4 fuse will occasionally blow when the headlight switch is turned to the on position. The fuse is not affected by the signal light switch.

 

[Dave_eng]

In studying the wiring diagram I see fuse #4 also connects to the voltage regulator.

Here are the instructions for testing the combination switch

Are you able to do these tests?

At the very least removing the steering wheel and dash would give you the opportunity to unplug the switch, inspect the terminals of the wiring harness side of the connector and the switch side of the connector.

Without a lot more studying, I am assuming the tail lights come on with the head lights is this correct?

Physical damage to the wiring harness is, in the end, most likely to be the cause of your fuse blowing and these are the hardest problems to solve unless you can locate the damage. Rodents love nesting in the dark corners of tractors and they love to chew as their front teeth continue growing and must be worn down. Wiring insulation is a preferred chew item.

The illumination lights within the dash such as the turn signal arrows ( 6 lights all told) are powered from the #4 fuse. Their presence in the fuse #4 circuit ties fuse #4 in subtle ways into other circuits. Another complication.

If you have not had the dash apart, I think the effort is worth it looking for a nest somewhere or chewed wires.

Your could also leave the combination switch unconnected for a period of time and see if the fuse blows.

You could also look for wiring harness connectors at the head lights and tail lights and unplug them and leave them unplugged to see if the fuse blowing stops.

Is there a trailer light connection on your tractor.

Have you made any changes at all such as additional LED lights, a radio.

Plse post some photos of both side and back of your tractor so I can form a better impression.

Sorry: this is not going to be the quick fix everyone likes

Dave

 

[Crich]

In studying the wiring diagram I see fuse #4 also connects to the voltage regulator.

Here are the instructions for testing the combination switch

Are you able to do these tests?

At the very least removing the steering wheel and dash would give you the opportunity to unplug the switch, inspect the terminals of the wiring harness side of the connector and the switch side of the connector.

Without a lot more studying, I am assuming the tail lights come on with the head lights is this correct?

Physical damage to the wiring harness is, in the end, most likely to be the cause of your fuse blowing and these are the hardest problems to solve unless you can locate the damage. Rodents love nesting in the dark corners of tractors and they love to chew as their front teeth continue growing and must be worn down. Wiring insulation is a preferred chew item.

The illumination lights within the dash such as the turn signal arrows ( 6 lights all told) are powered from the #4 fuse. Their presence in the fuse #4 circuit ties fuse #4 in subtle ways into other circuits. Another complication.

If you have not had the dash apart, I think the effort is worth it looking for a nest somewhere or chewed wires.

Your could also leave the combination switch unconnected for a period of time and see if the fuse blows.

You could also look for wiring harness connectors at the head lights and tail lights and unplug them and leave them unplugged to see if the fuse blowing stops.

Is there a trailer light connection on your tractor.

Have you made any changes at all such as additional LED lights, a radio.

Plse post some photos of both side and back of your tractor so I can form a better impression.

Sorry: this is not going to be the quick fix everyone likes

Dave

Last weekend I removed the entire dash, fuel tank, three position switch etc and inspected all the wiring. Couldn't find any chafed of chewed wires and couldn't replicate the problem so I reassembled everything. Went to plow some snow on Wednesday and blew the fuse again. Replaced the fuse and now it's fine again!

Since then I moved my efforts to the tail lights. They are powered on the same circuit. Can't find any chafed wires but the plug in wire connectors at each tail light were quite corroded. I cleaned them up sprayed with WD40 and put in Dielectric grease.

At the moment it's working and can't replicate the problem.

 

[Dave_eng]

Last weekend I removed the entire dash, fuel tank, three position switch etc and inspected all the wiring. Couldn't find any chafed of chewed wires and couldn't replicate the problem so I reassembled everything. Went to plow some snow on Wednesday and blew the fuse again. Replaced the fuse and now it's fine again!

Since then I moved my efforts to the tail lights. They are powered on the same circuit. Can't find any chafed wires but the plug in wire connectors at each tail light were quite corroded. I cleaned them up sprayed with WD40 and put in Dielectric grease.

At the moment it's working and can't replicate the problem.

Corroded connectors could well be your intermittent problem.

In the end, you might be well advised to cut the connectors off and solder the wires together using heat shrink tubing to protect the soldered joint.

Many of the connectors in a wiring harness are there to make assembly easier and then are just a point of vulnerability.

If you feel you really need a connector, there are some excellent new designs originating from the marine world where connector corrosion from salt water is always a concern.

Dave