legs for loader

[hope to float]

Hi Guys,
I have recently got a L3450 with an LA650 FEL. There are no legs with it for unmounting it.
Does anyone have the dimensions of both sets of legs so that I can make them up?
Also, is there some switch to be turned on the valve block where the hoses connect?
Loader will have to come off before the bog work starts.
Thanks

 

[RCW]

I can't help with the leg dimensions.

I assume your loader hoses have quick-connects (pull the ring away from the connection on the female fitting to separate?). If so, there is no switch/valve. The quick-connects are designed to be leak-proof - you don't need to shut pressure off to them.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Also, is there some switch to be turned on the valve block where the hoses connect?

Yes there is a slotted valve on the side of the block.

 

[Missouribound]

The loader is removed by first lifting the front end up by tipping the bucket forward and lowering the legs
Then after the legs are down the bucket is curled, putting the weight on the legs and allowing the arms to lift from the frame.
If you put the machine through the motions and measure it in both positions I think you could figure out the size without too much trouble.
I have a smaller loader so I can't help you with the exact dimensions. If you have a dealer close go there and measure, if not pick up the phone.
I am sure someone will be glad to help you. I'm actually surprised nobody here has one to share that information.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Are you sure you don't have the bars?
A lot of people don't now the bars are used as a rear cross brace.
The the other 2 bars are mounted under the Hydraulic lines on one of the Boom arms.

 

[hope to float]

[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
First try, let's see
Two pics of loader and 1 of what I think is the switch on the valve

 

[D2Cat]

Check like North Idaho Wolfman suggested, you may be working on a problem that doesn't exist.

If you don't find them, you could measure the pins at the top of the loader towers...center to center and add a couple of inches. One end will need a shoe welded on about 2" square (that sets on the ground).

 

[hope to float]

Check like North Idaho Wolfman suggested, you may be working on a problem that doesn't exist.

If you don't find them, you could measure the pins at the top of the loader towers...center to center and add a couple of inches. One end will need a shoe welded on about 2" square (that sets on the ground).

Definitely nothing attached anywhere on the loader. How stable are the loaders when they are off? Don't want it falling kids are climbing on it (cos that's just what kids do lol)

 

[RCW]

Yes there is a slotted valve on the side of the block.

My apologies for the incorrect information!!!

That is why I should not guess....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You would want to block it with some heavy timber as the factory loader rear supports are very flimsy, they are just a couple of square bars.
If any of the cylinders leak or is on soft ground at all, it will fall, so brace it according.

That's might be a bugger to remove the loader!
Here is why:
I'm guessing that they have mounted the loader control inside the cab as I don't see it mounted on the loader tower like it was stock.
Does it have quick disconnects on the Valve for the 4 lines to the loader?
If it does you would disconnect it there, do not do anything with the block as the valve stays live even with the loader off.
Now if there is no quick disconnects, you'll need to install them before you can proceed as the loader wont stay up to get it off without those.

 

[hope to float]

Lets see around the joystick area...

The quick couplers are outside the cab inside the right hand post


I was just thinking. There are some concrete cubes in my brothers yard that are supposed to be about a ton weight. I figure that if I can get the bucket under one of them I shouldn't need the front legs and any old prop to stop the back part dropping over time. I think I might have some 3" channel iron lying around.

 

[SRG]

On the Kubota parts lookup website, they list 3 LA650's
LA650
LA650C
LA650A

None of them show part numbers for the boom stands for parking it.

Search : LA650
Then open; Front attachments
Then open; Boom

https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

 

[hope to float]

Or better yet, what is bog work??

The bog is where we harvest peat in summer to burn as fuel in winter. It is the most evil, treacherous and downright vindictive type of land you could ever be expected to drive across. It is a mat of mostly heathers and grass covering soil with the consistency of toothpaste. So getting the tractor as light as possible is a must. The usual thing is a MF135 or a Fergie 20 with dual wheels front and back. If you have a ground drive trailer as in the pic, you are king

If you do get stuck and you will, that's when the midges attack But that's a story for another day.

 

[hope to float]

On the Kubota parts lookup website, they list 3 LA650's
LA650
LA650C
LA650A

None of them show part numbers for the boom stands for parking it.



https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/

Thanks. Unfortunately that site is only available in the US and I cannot find the equivalent site for Ireland or Europe.
It is the LA650A that I have whatever difference there is between them

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

View attachment 34475

The quick couplers are outside the cab inside the right hand post
View attachment 34476

I was just thinking. There are some concrete cubes in my brothers yard that are supposed to be about a ton weight. I figure that if I can get the bucket under one of them I shouldn't need the front legs and any old prop to stop the back part dropping over time. I think I might have some 3" channel iron lying around.

You are right on the money with your thinking, put the bucket under the block, pull the 4 mount pins, a combination of curling the bucket, rising the loader and backing will free you of it, then use the hydraulics to pull the towers so they are back to strait up and down block them (that's the tricky part so you can clear the front wheels, an A Frame over the top of the loader works really well for this, Chain the boom arms up at the rear at the towers,
(in fact if you make or have an A frame you won't even need to but the bucket in a block), super safe too, as a hydraulic failure has no effect on it falling, the kids could climb all over it without any issue.

Then shut off the tractor, move the loader control all directions to remove the pressure in the lines (if you don't have it supported this is when it will collapse), remove the 4 lines and then back away.


You would love my L3450 for bog work, as it has really light, has really wide tires.
And yes much more maneuverable and lighter with the loader off.
It walked right out of this mud with no help!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That why we are here to help... I think #60 is what you need but this doesn't say it specifically...

If you want to see another part, let me know....

And 310 are the rear legs, flimsy suckers!